MY ALTERNATOR IS OVERCHARGING WHAT PART DO I HAVE TO CHANGE? THE PART ON THE FIREWALL? CURRENTLY ITS READS 16VOLTS UNDER A LOAD, AND ALL MY LIGHTS ARE REALLY BRIGHT ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Make sure the voltage regulator on the firewall is grounded. Then unplug it and see if the voltage stays at about battery voltage when you start it. If it does replace the regulator.
I would say it could be also a short in alternator. Does Voltage increase with rpms ?
THE VOLTAGE IS ABOUT 14 AT IDLE AND 16+ UNDER A LOAD, SO I GUESS I UNPLUG IT AND SEE IF THERE IS A VOLTAGE DIFFENCE, IF THATS THE CASE WHAT DOES A NEW REGULATOR GO FOR? THANKS
I would suggest that you buy an electronic regulator from FBO Systems. 13730 SW Burlwood St. Beaverton, Oregon 97005 (503) 627-0728 They look stock, but have electronic internals. Cost was $28 + $7 for shipping.
I had a simular problem when I upgraded to a new 65 AMP altenator. Being "smart", I also purchased a 65 AMP regulator to go along with it. 2 different ones in fact and neither of them worked! Like you, I had 14 volts at idle and 16+ above idle. Made my lights look really great, but I also had an annoying pulsing in the lights. Knew I didn't want to keep running like that but also didn't want to give up my 65 AMPs. Funny thing was, out of desperation, I decided to put the old regulator and altenator (35 AMP) back on until I could figure out the problem. I put the old regulator back on first (because it was easiest) and decided to "what the heck" try it before changing out the altenator. To my suprise, the old original stock points type regulator handled it just fine! No pulsing, no over charging, and so far, over a years worth of use with no problems at 65 AMPs. Go figure?
Same problem, had a new alternator so I knew it was the regulator. I just ran over the the dodge dealership and picked up an electronic regulator, which fits right in, and costs about $20. Has worked fine ever since.