The adjusting screw on the torsion bar has the head twisted off and is bent. Any ideas short of torching my new MP torsion bar?
Support the frame and support the lca with a jack. Disconnect the lca from the lower ball joint and lower the jack to release pressure from the torsion bar so you can slide it out and replace the bolt. At least I think that would work.
Is this on the car or with the lca on a bench?
Quote from: gcdsn76 on October 12, 2015, 05:00:42 PM
Is this on the car or with the lca on a bench?
:scratchchin: If your lca is on a bench why the question about torching the torsion bar??
It's not. I'm trying to do it on the car.
Sorry about my question. It was intended to redirect you to Dino's reply.
The twisting load on the torsion bar needs to be relieved to slide the bar out. Dino described a practical way to relieve that stress since you can't unscrew the adjusting bolt.
That is what I would do.
If the bad adjusting bolt is the only problem removing the t bar is not needed.
You may need to torch or other wise cut the bad adjusting screw to get it out.---After the load on the t bar is relieved--
There is enough of the bolt sticking out that I'm going to have a go with a stud extractor. I'm able to get a pair of vice grips on it, but can't get enough of a grip to turn the screw. Otherwise, it's Dino's recommendation and it's take it apart (again).
Do you have enough clearance to weld a T bar on it? A few zaps with a mig would do it.
Quote from: Dino on October 12, 2015, 08:50:39 PM
Do you have enough clearance to weld a T bar on it? A few zaps with a mig would do it.
:2thumbs: Or drill it out completely. The nut plate is toast anyway. ---Considering the bent and stripped head of the screw, the threads are likely ruined.
Quote from: Dino on October 12, 2015, 08:50:39 PM
Do you have enough clearance to weld a T bar on it? A few zaps with a mig would do it.
Or weld a nut on it, if you can thread a nut on it, if not take a nut that will slip over the O. D. but still be able to get a socket in there. If you have to drill a nut out then weld it on. Good luck.
Any ideas for getting the block/screw assembly out? I thought once I had the tension off it would be much easier, but this thing is seized up. I've tried a sawzall and cold chisel.
The adjuster screw block? That's not something you can just cut through. The adjuster screw needs to come out so you can slide the block out the side.
I know. I'm currently trying to find somebody with a cutting torch because this thing is FROZEN. BTW, has anybody else had this issue with the adjusters from PST? How about the ones from Summit or Jegs or are they all Chinese metal.
Will "A" body torsion bar adjusters work on a "B" body?
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=325996
I have, sell, torsion bar adjuster bolts and blocks.
Click on the above link, if interested.