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440 just won't start

Started by 66fury, March 12, 2013, 07:10:46 PM

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66fury

just finished putting a 440 from a motorhome in my 74 charger, rolls over fine, but i just cannot get this motor to start. i have set the timing and  plug  #1 is firing at the timing mark, checked for TDC all checks out. have a new 650 eddybrock which is shooting gas in just fine. i have ohm tested the balast resistor, the distributor, checked for spark at coil and plugs all testing fine. when i role the engine it fires a couple of cylinders and thats it! I had a friend who builds engines freshen this 440, new rod bearings, mains, rings .30 over for a few extra ponies, cleaned up the valves and polished the heads nothing real drastic. but now we just cannot get it to start. any ideas from the site gurus...... maybe we missed something????

ACUDANUT

For the time being, Pull plug #1 and when you feel it push air out, reset the plugs in the right order on the dist. Starting with cylinder #1. Try that and report back.

66fury

tried that numerous times even thought we might have been 180 out but that didn't help any, does anyone know if ECU's can cause weak spark, i know they can fail outright but can they just be weak and how could i test it??

ACUDANUT

 Bad ECU just stop working and have no spark comming out of the dist.  :Twocents:

66fury

thats what we wthought but wasn't sure, heck we even thought we had bad plugs changed them, changed oil thinking we maybe had gas in oil, never had this kind of trouble with an engine!

ACUDANUT

Bad ECU just stop working and have no spark comming out of the

coil :Twocents:

ACUDANUT


bobs66440

Try a new coil and ECU.

I've had mine quit running twice. First time was the coil. Second time was the ECU. It won't be a wasted purchase. They all go bad eventually... :icon_smile_wink:

Cooter

Fuel


Air


Fire...

Without ANY of the three, it won't run.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

ACUDANUT

Cooter, I think air is a gimmie, Otherwise we would not be here.
You just need Fuel and spark. :Twocents:

Mopar Nut

"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

66fury

had new wires and coil from the start. well after a day at making a living i'll head back in the garage and try all over again this evening i'll keep u up dated!

Cooter

You never mentioned whether or not you were running a factory MOPAR Electronic module. If so, there's a VERY good place to start.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

66fury

tried changing module no difference.... . but heres what i have learned from another mopar guy, the lifters my engine guy used where comp cam 822-16 440 hydraulic...... which are slightly longer and according to this guy (he had same problem) i need a shorter push rod  which these guys make for use with their lifters. kinda pisses me off now i gotta order their push rods..... anyone ever heard of this??

brumono

You can check if your ECU has a good set chassis? sometimes when the paint is new in the firewall or the ECU is new does not have good contact with the chassis and this causes the ECU to fail in a very rare, it occurred to me and in another car and it was just the copper braid that gives a better chassis setup :icon_smile_wink:

66fury

already checked that ground situation..... but heres the latest: if u install comp cam hydraulic  lifters u will need shorter push rods! i called them directly. this only happens to 440s, the lifters are slightly longer and hold the valves open 1/50,000th of an inch with stock push rods!! i will update when i get new push rods!!!

ACUDANUT

66 Fury, I could see that as a problem, But not a normal issue at all.

ACUDANUT

Brumono, don't you have the same problem.

brumono

Hi, no my problem is a back fire in the carburetor .

71 SE3834V

Before you pull the lifters you might want to do a compression check.
71 Charger SE 383 4V
72 Galaxie 500 400 2V

cougs

If you think that could be it, pull a valve cover to see of the rockers are moving like they should.  Big difference between .500 and .100.  Did the pushrods have play when you reassembled the engine?  Sounds like spark to me.  Did you pull a plugwire to see if it would arc to the block?
1968 Charger 383/727  Restored to Stock!

red69superbee

compression check first before ya break in to the engine.I had a challenger that had mopar electronic, that had fits of not starting sometime,cranking it wouldnt fire, but would hit once as you rolled the key back to off

66fury

update: pulled ifters and checked size with a micrometer.......they are almost a full  1/8" longer, putting new mopar lifters in this morning! will post results!

tan top


just seen this thread , don't forget puting  new lifters in , even with old cam , you need to break them in !! you need to do the same procedure as with new cam & lifters ,  :yesnod: or you should do  :yesnod:

just out of curiosity , when you mesured lifters where did you mesure from ? 
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Nwcharger

I had a similar problem with my charger when I put an rv motor in it. I had spark and fuel but for some reason when the engine would crank the hot wire to the coil would loose its 12v source. I'll have to try and remember what I did to solve this problem. Have you checked to see if your coil is still hot when cranking?
1969 coronet wagon