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Starter won't stop

Started by lukedukem, March 03, 2013, 01:00:42 PM

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resq302

Luke,

It all depends if you want it fixed right.  If you do it right, you could put your worries aside about any possible electrical fires and such by getting a new harness (which will not be cheap) and then everything will be hooked up as the way the factory had intended.  Option 2 would be to fix it cheap and just take care of the issue at hand now but could cause other issues later down the road.  If it were my car (and I assume a bunch of other people would do this too), I would spend the money for a new wire harness and then slowly replace all the other harness' for the vehicle that have been butchered.  Our cars (and lives) are worth way too much to have something as simple and stupid as a wiring problem cause the car (and possibly house depending where you keep it) go up in flames.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

lukedukem

Quote from: resq302 on March 06, 2013, 09:01:04 AM
Luke,

It all depends if you want it fixed right.  If you do it right, you could put your worries aside about any possible electrical fires and such by getting a new harness (which will not be cheap) and then everything will be hooked up as the way the factory had intended.  Option 2 would be to fix it cheap and just take care of the issue at hand now but could cause other issues later down the road.  If it were my car (and I assume a bunch of other people would do this too), I would spend the money for a new wire harness and then slowly replace all the other harness' for the vehicle that have been butchered.  Our cars (and lives) are worth way too much to have something as simple and stupid as a wiring problem cause the car (and possibly house depending where you keep it) go up in flames.

i want it done right. that's for sure. so were do i get the new harness, does it come with instructions. is there anything else i need to get that is recomended to go with it...

what about the foggy gauges and that little white smoke i had. the foggy guages were before this issue, just wasn't happeing all the time but i know theres an issue...

luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

resq302

Unfortuantely, Year One has exclusive rights to the Mopar wiring that M&H wiring makes up for our cars.  Best thing to do since they are pricey is to wait for a sale when they have them and get it then.   More than likely the little white smoke was a gauge burning up from either the voltage limiter (rectangular metal box with 3 prongs that plugs into the back of your cluster) went bad and gave 12 volts to your 5 volt gauges or your ammeter could have shorted out or the wiring for the ammeter could have started failing.

Do your gauges work?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

lukedukem

Quote from: resq302 on March 06, 2013, 11:21:50 AM
Unfortuantely, Year One has exclusive rights to the Mopar wiring that M&H wiring makes up for our cars.  Best thing to do since they are pricey is to wait for a sale when they have them and get it then.   More than likely the little white smoke was a gauge burning up from either the voltage limiter (rectangular metal box with 3 prongs that plugs into the back of your cluster) went bad and gave 12 volts to your 5 volt gauges or your ammeter could have shorted out or the wiring for the ammeter could have started failing.

Do your gauges work?


yes, they all work.... at first they fog up then after about five minutes they stop.. but recently they smoke started.... but yes they work

luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

resq302

Are they pegged all the way over to the right?  Also, what is your ammeter doing?  What is the position of the needle when the car is running and all the lights and such are off?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

lukedukem

Quote from: resq302 on March 06, 2013, 12:46:46 PM
Are they pegged all the way over to the right?  Also, what is your ammeter doing?  What is the position of the needle when the car is running and all the lights and such are off?

no they arn't pegged all they way to the right...
my ammeter sits in the middle until i give it gas then it pegs out to the right...
should be in the middle when idle. until pedal is givin
BUT, the tach stops after 3000rpm. it will drop down and bottom out, then it will kick up when i let off gas???? 
alsowhen i turn on the blower motor the tach actually works all the way up to 3500 rpm???
WTF

luke

1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

resq302

Sounds like you certainly have a wiring issue.  Your ammeter should NEVER go fully to the right unless you have a totally dead battery and even at those amps, the wiring would not be able to handle it resulting in a fire.  Check what kind of voltage your alternator or voltage regulator (engine compartment) is putting out when you give it gas.  Almost sounds like you might have a dead short somewhere which is causing the severe overcharging issue.  Either way, it needs to get fixed FAST!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Nacho-RT74

this thread is to explain you how the ammeter works

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

beside that, I explain there how to make an upgrade on a Mopar way... but actually you need to understand first what the ammeter reading means
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

lukedukem

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on March 07, 2013, 01:11:09 AM
this thread is to explain you how the ammeter works

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

beside that, I explain there how to make an upgrade on a Mopar way... but actually you need to understand first what the ammeter reading means

:2thumbs:  thanks nacho
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

Fred

Well if it did it would be called a stopper would it?   :smilielol:    :smilielol:


Tomorrow is promised to no one.......drive your Charger today.

Hard Charger

Quote from: lukedukem on March 03, 2013, 01:00:42 PM
I got in my 69 yesterday and went to start it and it kept turning over. I even turned the ignition switch to off and pulled the key out. WTF. It finally started and I could here the starter still going. It finally stopped after a coupl,e more seconds. Any one have a clue. I tried searching but nothing. When I put the key back in it, I turn it off and it shut down the engine. I never noticed this before and it just started doing this. The only thing I changed was that I plugged that plug back in my tranny, the one for the reverse lights. But I think that had nothing todo with it.
Part2: when driving too my cousins house, my wife noticed smoke coming out of the dash. I pulled over and it stopped, wasn't that much.  No smell. But some of the gauges were a little foggy at first. But they all still work. I've searched about this issue and still am not sure if these two are connected. It's a first for both.


Luke

solenoid problem. next time hit it and it may shut off.  a bad relay would most likely spark or trip a fuse.