Removing Engine-Transmission-Additional Questions

[john108]

1968 Dodge Charger 440/727.
I am sliding around under the car to see what else has to be disconnected.

1.  I saw what I think is the speedometer cable that needs to be disconnected (looks like a 1" nut).  It is blocked by a bracket that the console mounted gear shift (automatic 727) mechanism is attached to, and needs to be disconnected.
The shaft coming down from the shift mechanism has an odd looking nut on the bottom of the bracket.  The shaft also has an additional link attached to it.  The bracket appears to be held in place by 2 studs/nuts. 
I am staring at it trying to decide what to remove first, without damaging anything.  Also not sure how much of the linkage needs to be removed and what can just be left attached to the transmission.
Please offer your suggestions.

2.  Is there any reason to remove the  transmission fluid cooling lines that are routed towards the radiator, or leave them attached during removal of the engine/trans assy?  Even if I disconnect them, it doesn't look like they can be snaked out.

3.  The rear transmission/motor mount:  I received a good answer on my other post but I see a few differences.  It appears that my mount has 4 parallel thru bolts attaching it to the framework.  These bolts are parallel to the drive shaft and appear to be 1/2 inch diameter (not all are shown in the picture).  Are these the only bolts that needs to be removed.  There is 1 additional nut on the very bottom, and centered on the mount/  I am guessing that this nut can be left attached to the mount frame for now.

[Hard Charger]

remove the speedo cable. the trans bracket from the crossmember (not (just)from the trans). disconnect the linkage from the trans by removing the 2 nuts and bracket, the shaft should drop out of the bracket once free. the funky nut is a nylon bushing. unplug neutral safety lead. drop the drive shaft.

Trans should be free.

[john108]

Thank you but I not following a few points.
I seem to have difficulty disconnecting the speedometer cable until I remove the small bracket holding the gearshift shaft.

Also, on another post, Cooter stated "disconnect the steering draglink at the pitman and idler arms".  It does look like that link is in the way.

This statement: " the trans bracket from the crossmember (not (just)from the trans)."  : Are you referring to the large bracket holding the 3rd mount, held in by the 4 large bolts I referred to.  If so, then I would do this last after supporting the transmission.

[ACUDANUT]

You do not have to mess with the steerings parts. Yes, on your last qustion... on your speedometer...just find something to turn the large nut. Do not remove the bracket that holds the speedo gears.
It's easy as pie.

[RallyeMike]

This isnt complicated. Don't worry about breaking anything. If you take more apart than needed its easy to put back together.

You can take the two nuts that hold the bracket off blocking access to the speedo nut and then just swing it away. The speedometer nut looks menacing because of its size, but it will come off easily.

The trans line can be snaked out, but it is not easy. You might have to bend them somewhat to get them out, but they can be bent back into shape.

As far as the rear trans mount, the best thing to do if you are removing the transmission is disconnect the whole cross mount and remove it.

[Hard Charger]

Thank you but I not following a few points.
I seem to have difficulty disconnecting the speedometer cable until I remove the small bracket holding the gearshift shaft.

remove only the large cable nut. should be easy.
Also, on another post, Cooter stated "disconnect the steering draglink at the pitman and idler arms".  It does look like that link is in the way.

no need. ignore.

This statement: " the trans bracket from the crossmember (not (just)from the trans)."  : Are you referring to the large bracket holding the 3rd mount, held in by the 4 large bolts I referred to.  If so, then I would do this last after supporting the transmission.

remove the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the car , yes support the trans if the motor is free, forgot to also disconect tranny lines at radiator.

[john108]

Hard Charger - The radiator is out.
I will re-tighten the nuts on the drag-link after the engine/trans is removed.
I am looking at disconnecting the the fluid lines, from the transmission, that were routed to the radiator.  It may avoid damaging them.
Thank You (Hard Charger, RallyeMike, ACUDANUT)

[john108]

The 4 bolts that go thru the intake manifold into the heads appears to be 3/8-16 x 1 1/2 long.
To be able to attach the lifting chains and washers, how long should the bolts be?

[ACUDANUT]

At least another 2 inches longer than the factory ones.

[Hard Charger]

The 4 bolts that go thru the intake manifold into the heads appears to be 3/8-16 x 1 1/2 long.
To be able to attach the lifting chains and washers, how long should the bolts be?

i used longer bolts i had and used a couple washers to be able to tighten the equalizer straps down with out bottoming out the bolts in the hole.

Make sure you use a equalizer to take the engine and tranny out together. you will need to tilt the engine at about 70 degrees to clear the engine bay.

[john108]

Yes - Hard Charger
I do have one of those adjustable angle thing that you refer to as an equalizer, I think.  Although, I never used it nor pulled an engine before.
I am getting close.  It took a few days but I finally got the last nut loosened/off the bolts holding the exhaust pipes to the manifolds.  I removed the last one in 3 pieces.  Now to see how to remove the exhaust pipes.  I hope they separate before going over the rear axle.   If they don't, I am not sure what to do other than a hacksaw???
Thank you.

[mauve66]

is the trans and motor staying together?? if not don't forget the 4 bolts holding the convertor to the flex plate, pain in the behind to get to each one if the wiring is gone

[ACUDANUT]

Don't want to come across wrong, But why are you pulling the engine and transmission out if your not mechanically inclined ? Are you sure it even needs to come out ?

[john108]

Engine & Transmission coming out as an assembly.

I am not bad mechanically.  It is just that my recent experience with cars is somewhat limited.  I have been an Aerospace design engineer since before most of the guys on this board were born.  Based on my experience, I like to know what to expect before I attempt it.  Thank you for your help and I hope you will continue to answer my questions even if you feel that they are dumb questions.
John

[ACUDANUT]

Don't make it harder than it is. You won't break anything. These cars are tough to break. Kudos to you for doing it yourself.  Try to have a second person there to make sure nothing gets hung up when pulling the powerplant.

[john108]

Thank you
I am going to start another post because I believe I should remove the exhaust system before I pull the engine/transmission.  I think the exhaust system/ H-pipe, etc. would be in my way when I support the transmission during removal of the transmission cross member mount.  It may not be the case but I don't want a problem at a bad time.
John

[ACUDANUT]

If you have a H-pipe in your exhaust, your going to have to sawzall/cut it out and remove it.  Any muffler place can repair the damage after you put the powerplant back in.  IMO H-pipes don't help much, if any.

[Hard Charger]

Thank you
I am going to start another post because I believe I should remove the exhaust system before I pull the engine/transmission.  I think the exhaust system/ H-pipe, etc. would be in my way when I support the transmission during removal of the transmission cross member mount.  It may not be the case but I don't want a problem at a bad time.
John

Leave the exhaust in the car, just disconnect it from the manifolds. just apply common sense, you do not need to overthink it. once you have the engine weight on the lift the tranny does not need support just guidance.

i know a guy with no garage, no lift just hand tools and a makeshift hoist. he goes out in the driveway and removes engines in the snow and rain in an hour. he is a prison counselor by trade, no professional.

[john108]

The exhaust pipes have some burn thru spots and I plan to remove them any way.
I will decide whether to pull them now or after t he engine/transmission is removed.
The H-pipe crosses right at the end of the transmission tail-shaft.
When I disconnect the pipes from the exhaust manifold, I expect the forward end of the pipes to drop to the ground.
I am sure I should have the hoist attached to the engine before pulling the bolts for the 2 engine mounts and transmission mount.
When I disconnect the transmission mount, I believe the transmission tail-shaft should be supported so that it doesn't shift.
After everything is balanced, I can remove the transmission support.
If my sequence is wrong, please advise.
--John--

[Hard Charger]

looks right

when you disconnect the pipes from the manifold the pipes most likely wont fall to the floor. they will hover lower.