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Forged Crank Question...

Started by Lighthorseman, February 25, 2013, 11:07:01 AM

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Lighthorseman


  Since I am doing an auto to 4 speed swap, I am looking for a forged crank, since I've heard that a cast crank just isn't going to cut it.  I have a line on what a guy "says" is a forged 440 crank, but the numbers don't seem to make any sense.

  I compared it to Cooter's outstanding parts list, and it doesn't seem to match up with anything.

  The number on the crank is apparently  1988 761.

  Can anyone help me out?

Thanks!
- Steve -

Lighthorseman

Okay - just looked at a picture he sent - actually looks like 1688 791 to me.  Is this maybe for a small block?  I doubt this is from a 440...

Cooter

Maybe you post the picture he sent and we take a look see? That part number doesn't even match up to anything I've seen for a SB either?
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"


Nacho-RT74

why not mesure the mains? that will help.

not a V6... it has 4 crankpin journals
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

justcruisin

It certainly looks like a 440 forged crank but as Nacho said you will need to take some measurements - mains, rods, stroke, fly wheel bolt pattern.

Lighthorseman

As a forged crank newbie, what should I measure, and what should those measurements be?

Thanks!
- Steve -

ottawamerc

I have a 70 or so forged crank in the shop I can take a pic and you can compare, FYI if its a 4 speed that your building make sure the crank is drilled out for the pilot bearing too
This hobby is more than just our cars, it's the people you get to meet along the way!!!

ACUDANUT

What does the Balencer look like. Fat or skinny ?

John_Kunkel


If the crank actually has a 16xxxxx or 19xxxxx number it's probably an early model with the extended flange...useless for anything '62 or later.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

ottawamerc

Quote from: ACUDANUT on February 25, 2013, 06:36:24 PM
What does the Balencer look like. Fat or skinny ?

The damper matches the type of connecting rods you use, either standard rods smaller damper or with the 6 pack rods would use the larger externally balanced damper. The cast cranks can only use the larger dampers
This hobby is more than just our cars, it's the people you get to meet along the way!!!

Cooter

Doesn't APPEAR to be an extended flange crank to me, but need all that tape off the back be sure.



" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: justcruisin on February 25, 2013, 04:41:03 PM
It certainly looks like a 440 forged crank but as Nacho said you will need to take some measurements - mains, rods, stroke, fly wheel bolt pattern.

actually with just mains, "could" be enough. The mains dictates the Mopar block Family since is the only size what is not shared.



Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

ACUDANUT

I just know that a Forged steel crank uses the small skinny Damper (balencer)

Lighthorseman

Here's another question - If I have the 11 inch, 143 tooth flywheel (2843212), and I take that when I go look at the crank, will I be okay if the boltholes match up?

Cooter

Quote from: Lighthorseman on February 27, 2013, 10:43:35 AM
Here's another question - If I have the 11 inch, 143 tooth flywheel (2843212), and I take that when I go look at the crank, will I be okay if the boltholes match up?

Depends on if it's a 360 SMALL BLOCK truck flywheel that is Externally balanced, a 440+6 11" That should be externally balanced as well, or a good ol fashioned 318/383/400/413/440 Truck/car flywheel that is INTERNALLY balanced.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Lighthorseman

Holy cow.  Am I EVER lost.   :icon_smile_blackeye:  So, if the flywheel I have IS the "good ol' 318 to 440 car/truck internally balanced flywheel", and the boltholes do match up, am I okay then?  Or, am I in a situation where the boltholes could match, but the crank might still be a pre-62 one that's no good to me?

Also, where is the extended flange, if there is one?  Would it be under the tape on the right hand side?

Thanks for all the help!

Cooter

Yes, the INTERNALLY balanced 11" Flywheel will work, but you will need the expensive 11" Bellhousing to make it work with your BB.

PS: I have two. One cracked (Read cheaper) and one Good For sale.

Yes, the extended flange crank has NO threads in the holes and will be an 8 BOLT crank flange. I think your ok, but need that tape off the right side to be sure. Use a micrometer to measure in thousandths what the MAIN bearing journals are and we can tell what crank that is. 383/400, or 413/440..

Yeah, these Mopars ain't quite as easy to swap around as those Chebby freaks stuff where one can remove a 283 and BOLT IN a 454....
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Lighthorseman

Well, all for naught.  It turns out to be a 383 crank.  The guy I was talking to went out and measured it.  Not only that, I guess it had already been ground 30 under, so it's a little weak to boot.

Thanks to everyone for all their help.  I sure did learn lots of stuff.   :2thumbs:

ACUDANUT

30 under if fine. I love 383's.