Two Engine Questions:

[Captain D]

Hi all,

To make a long story short on my 69' Charger 383 BB, everything seems to be holding good with no oil leakage from a pair of new valve covers + rubber gaskets that I've recently bought/installed. Since they're 'plain Janes,' we thought about installing a pair of Charger emblems with flat bottoms that we have here that look like these to be put on top:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1975-76-77-78-79-Dodge-Charger-emblem-script-pair-NOS-new-/150925757678?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2323e04cee&vxp=mtr

I thought that I would post a thread to get some opinions on how best to adhere them onto the top of the valve covers using either JB Weld or a high temp silicone such as this:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81878-Maximum-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B0002UEOPA

Any opinion on these two sealants to use that you could suggest? The JB Weld states that it can withstand up to 550 deg. while the silicone pictured above says an occasional 700 degrees. I'm sure either may work just as good, but to be honest, I have no experience on this type of thing. I've been chatting with a few friends here on this topic, but was just curious to see if anyone else happened to do something similar on their valve covers just out of curiosity...?

With regards to my second question, as I was checking everything underneath for any leaks, the only leak that I had noticed was a drop or two of oil from the transmission lip (area directly closest to the engine, but on the transmission lip itself of where the torque converter is installed). The only thing that I can think of is that the rear main seal appears to leak a drop or two. Since I have 10W-30 Vavoline full synthetic in there for the winter months, do you think that a thicker oil may help to make a difference (I'm planning to run the 20W-50 come early-to-mid May) or not using the full synthetic, such as a blend or simply conventional oil altogether?

I'm weary about Bars Leak since I'm not too keen on adding 'stuff' to cover up other 'stuff' and, of course, having to pull the engine some to address it too. Is there anything else that you could recommend that I could check while I'm under there to see if it could be something other than the rear main seal, by chance? If its only leaking a drop or two, and if it is indeed the rear main seal, do they tend to get progressively worse over time or since its only a drop or two - just let it ride for the time being? As a side note, in addition to a fairly recent engine rebuild (only 700 miles on the rebuild) I have a PVC installed on the passenger side valve cover and a breather on the driver so there is no 'sludge' to have to contend with that would have clogged anything up...

Thank you for your time and for any and all replies,
Best regards,
Aaron

[JB400]

Glad to hear those are metal   

[Cooter]

A word to the wise on TWO PIECE rear main seals.....You will NEVER totally STOP them from leaking. If it's only a drip or two, I wouldn't worry bout it.  If it's idling and you see it pouring out to where there's a 7 Inch puddle under car in about 5 min; then and only then do I recommend replacing.

[bill440rt]

Can't really help you with the leak, but for the emblems I would just use the peel-n-stick double sided tape. Those emblems already have it on, but if you go with something else (probably better emblem choices out there) you can just buy a roll of it. Put it on the emblem, trace/trim it with a razor blade, peel off the backing, and stick it on. Make sure the surfaces are free or oil or dirt, and apply the emblem while the engine is just a little warm. It will stick better.

[Captain D]

Thank you gents for the replies and helpful guidance,  .

If it comes down to it, I'll definitely have to pony up and just try to get it fixed. A friend of mine mentioned it possibly being a 'gallery plug.' I did some searches, but couldn't really find anything on what this may be.

- any info on where I can look for this in order to check it?
- and, if I do eventually end up having to have the rear main seal worked on (however, I did read that, as 'Cooter' mentioned above, it may never really fix the problem since the big blocks tended to be leaky from the factory and getting a fitting could be a problem still  ), does anyone know how much having a rear main seal may cost, ball-park range?

Hi Bill - I was thinking about going with the double-sided tape, but was unsure if it would hold up to the heat of valve covers  . Maybe it will, I just have no idea and just started looking into Permatex as a possible option...

Thank you again for your time and for any and all replies once again,
Aaron

[bill440rt]

I don't think you'll have a problem with double-sided tape, Aaron.
Think of it this way. What, 90% of the cars out there today have side moldings stuck on there with double sided tape. Even some roof moldings are just double sided tape. These same cars are exposed to the blazing hot sun in Texas or the frigid temps of Canada and they're holding up just fine. 

[Captain D]

Hi Bill,

Thank you for the tip on the double-sided tape and I did actually opt for another emblem design on there altogether,  .

With regards to the minor oil leak that we were talking about (with regards to it possibly being the rear main seal), it appears that it may have been something as simple as the oil pan.

After squeezing my butt up underneath with a good light, I didn't see any leakage from the main seal after all, but a few drops of oil coming from only two or three of the oil pan bolts - which was dropping onto the edge of the transmission lip. After tightening them up, I didn't see anymore leakage - whew, now I feel like a biggest horse's a$$. However, it was certainly interesting learning more about this topic if it ever comes down to it nonetheless...

Thank you again for your time in helping to answer my questions,
Best regards,
Aaron