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440 swap into 73 B-body help

Started by coxie1996, February 25, 2013, 08:10:25 PM

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coxie1996

hey mopar nuts! so im getting ready to install my 440 & 727 into my 1973 charger. (originally a small block car)

my question is pretty simple. what all do i need to do in order to swap it? its a pretty relevant but i figured id ask incase someone else did the swap & could give a guy some advice. i am also doing the 8 3/4 swap as well. thanks guys!

mauve66

http://www.engine-swaps.com/

alot of people don't like their engine mounts and there are other ways to do it but thier FREE catalog goes over just about everything you need to think of and its FREE so you can just get some info then compare it to others ideas
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

coxie1996

Quote from: mauve66 on February 25, 2013, 08:19:26 PM
http://www.engine-swaps.com/

alot of people don't like their engine mounts and there are other ways to do it but thier FREE catalog goes over just about everything you need to think of and its FREE so you can just get some info then compare it to others ideas

already have the shumaker mounts lol  :2thumbs:

RallyeMike

Damn. They must have some really good weed where you live!    :apimp:

Here's a link to the last time you asked:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,87709.msg989515.html#msg989515







1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

RallyeMike

Now get to work!

:smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol:

The offer still stands to answer any questions along the way.
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

mauve66

Quote from: coxie1996 on February 25, 2013, 08:36:45 PM
Quote from: mauve66 on February 25, 2013, 08:19:26 PM
http://www.engine-swaps.com/

alot of people don't like their engine mounts and there are other ways to do it but thier FREE catalog goes over just about everything you need to think of and its FREE so you can just get some info then compare it to others ideas

already have the shumaker mounts lol  :2thumbs:

so you should of already gotten their catalog with all the recomended changes....................
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

flyinlow

I would recommend you install the 8 3/4 axles first. Drive it and fix any problems with it first. How are the brakes and suspension on that 40 year old beast?

flyinlow

my question is pretty simple. what all do i need to do in order to swap it? its a pretty relevant but i figured id ask incase someone else did the swap & could give a guy some advice. i am also doing the 8 3/4 swap as well. thanks guys!
[/quote]



You will need an understanding parent with a garage that will be available for a couple weeks. tools, service manual would be helpfull , engine hoist, drain pans, oil, a case of ATF. , jackstands, antifreeze, work lights ,  a spare car to drive to get stuff, and of course money.
A helper, safety glasses,gloves and a fire extinguishers are good ideas too.

flyinlow

If you have A/C, drive to refrigeration specialist that can remove the refrigerant.
Back in your garage, pad the windshield with an old blanket and get a helper to assist you in removing the hood.
Drain oil,coolant, PS fluid and ATF. Dispose of in an Al Gore approved manner.

use a camera to take pictures of everything to help reassembly, ziplock bags and a magic markers help keep track of the hardware.

disconnect the battery
remove the fan,shroud and radiator
disconnect the heater hoses,fuel line,electrical harness , A/C lines and throttle cable
put car up on jack stands
remove drivesaft , support transmission tailshaft ant remove the trans crossmember, disconnect the trans shift linkage and cooler lines
disconnect exhaust
disconnect the steering draglink at the pitman and idler arms
having fun yet?
Attach lifting fixture and hoist to the engine, take up the slack,,remove the motor mount thru bolts.
Depending on you engine hoist and your ceiling height you may have to take the car off the jackstands at this point
raise the engine/trans from the car, it will come out tailshaft down
clean up garage,tools ,self
re read Schumaker  and the Service manual instructions on installation

check back when you get this far.

ACUDANUT


coxie1996

i should of said more. hah sorry guys.

the engines out, the engine bay was blasted, painted, and now ready for the BB.
the 440 is almost built (minus belts and a power steering hose.
the 8 3/4 is apart (all brake parts, etc) are on the way, would you guys recommend new axle/differential bearings?
what i really needed to know was the swapping part itself. like should i install the engine with the trans bolted to the engine? or vise versa. ive taken a dozen engines out of cars, but never re installed. i plan on doing this at our school auto shop (very nice, snap on gave us a grant) so id have every specialty tool available.
and basic tips for swapping out the rearend. like i said. i know what all of these things are. but being as young as i am. ive never actually done it. i appreciate it guys!  :popcrn:

flyinlow

Normally I put an engine in with the trans attached. But since I used Schumaker mounts that are not stock I put mine in engine alone and then put the trans in latter.  It is just lighter and balanced better without the trans.

If your 8 3/4 axle is from a 73-74 with isolators it a simple bolt in. 72 and earlier is different,you will need at least new shock plates. Mancini has them.

If the axles was working recently and was quiet I would just grease the axle bearings and put it in. If it has been sitting in the weather or you already have it completely disassembled ,replace the bearings.   :Twocents:

If you are going to replace the 318 rear springs, this is a good time. Poly shackle bushing time if you are so inclined.

john108

Please excuse my comment here:

Cooter - you stated above: "disconnect the steering draglink at the pitman and idler arms".  I am also removing the engine/trans assy.  I loosened the 4 NUTS that hold the draglink.  Do you separate these joints using a tuning fork looking tool.  If so, they have different sizes.  I have one that has a 5/8 space between the 2 legs.  Also, the taper on the legs are not symmetrical.  It has a one sided taper.  Do you use it with the flat or taper side up?  Does it wreck the part?  Thank you - John