News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Who wants to Megasquirt, full sequential fuel/ spark a 68 charger! This Guy!!

Started by redmist, February 24, 2013, 11:51:50 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

kunkler99

I know I am waaaayyyyy late to this party but is the  bushing and hold down clamp available anywhere? I looked on ds-concepts web site and I dont see it. Thanks!

Derwud

1970 Dodge Charger R/T.. Owned since 1981

perlhaqr

A.) This thread is amazing.  I joined just to participate, even though I've got Satellites, not Chargers.  Hopefully y'all can spare some love for your Plymouth cousins.  ;)

B.) I think the most beautiful sentence I've read in the entire thread was from Elacruze, who said: "I've had two tanksful over 23mpg with my 505 stroker[.]"  Since I'm planning on a 505 (New Mexico power!  :D ) that's music to my ears.

I've got my Pro Flo XT intake already, and I'm slowly collecting the other parts.  I'm a machinist (among other things) so I think I'm going to try my hand at making my own CPS bushing, crank trigger wheel, and a couple other parts.

-Ogre

MechTech

I still have CPS bushings and a hold-down clamp made specifically for the Jeep CPS. I also have Coil brackets, crank trigger wheels and crank sensor brackets.

MechTech

Its been a tough summer and I hate that winter is coming because I think I have finally sorted out all of the problems I've had with my setup. I wanted to make you all aware so you can hopefully avoid the same issues. The first issue I had was on a 1/4mile pass in Oct. 2017 I finally got the turbo control figured out and I was making a awesome pass when the motor shuttered, I let out of it and got to the pits and the motor had a knock in it. Now you might think the knock had something to do with the motor shuttering but there were 2 problems showing up at the same time. The knock turned out to be a piston slapping because the piston skirt had .013 wear on it. It took me till the following May to figure that out.  I've only recently become aware of what was the culprit. I pulled all of the pistons out of the motor. None of the pistons on the passenger side of the motor had any wear on the skirt on the drivers side cylinder #1 had the most wear and was causing the knocking #3 had less wear 5 and 7 had deceasing amounts. The block was also scoured. I had been trying to figure out what would cause this to happen and was talking to local racer that runs fuel injection on his Ford. He says that cylinder was running to lean and burnt the oil so the cylinder lost its lubrication but it was not hot enough to burn the piston. So that made sense to me and I recently figured out what may have caused that to occur which is what I want to make you aware of. I think it was caused by the way I have the fuel system setup. The fuel comes into the front of passenger side fuel rail goes from the back thru a hose to the back of the drivers side fuel rail at the front end I have a fuel pressure regulator that sends the excess fuel back to the tank. I think that setup is causing the #1 cylinder to starve for fuel. What I am going to do to fix it is run a hose between the front of both fuel rails making a complete circle. I'm hoping that will keep even pressure through out the system. I'm also going to keep a close eye on my plugs and make sure they all look the same. One of the cool things about a fully sequential setup is that you can adjust the fuel per cylinder. Ill explain the next issue I had soon

kunkler99

Thanks for that update! How much are you asking for all those goodies???

Secondly, I'm guessing you're trying to squeeze out every last bit of performance, could you setup your headers to monitor the EGT's? That would tell you if you're running lean on each cylinder. Just a thought.

Derwud

Quote from: MechTech on November 22, 2018, 12:25:15 PM
Its been a tough summer and I hate that winter is coming because I think I have finally sorted out all of the problems I've had with my setup. I wanted to make you all aware so you can hopefully avoid the same issues. The first issue I had was on a 1/4mile pass in Oct. 2017 I finally got the turbo control figured out and I was making a awesome pass when the motor shuttered, I let out of it and got to the pits and the motor had a knock in it. Now you might think the knock had something to do with the motor shuttering but there were 2 problems showing up at the same time. The knock turned out to be a piston slapping because the piston skirt had .013 wear on it. It took me till the following May to figure that out.  I've only recently become aware of what was the culprit. I pulled all of the pistons out of the motor. None of the pistons on the passenger side of the motor had any wear on the skirt on the drivers side cylinder #1 had the most wear and was causing the knocking #3 had less wear 5 and 7 had deceasing amounts. The block was also scoured. I had been trying to figure out what would cause this to happen and was talking to local racer that runs fuel injection on his Ford. He says that cylinder was running to lean and burnt the oil so the cylinder lost its lubrication but it was not hot enough to burn the piston. So that made sense to me and I recently figured out what may have caused that to occur which is what I want to make you aware of. I think it was caused by the way I have the fuel system setup. The fuel comes into the front of passenger side fuel rail goes from the back thru a hose to the back of the drivers side fuel rail at the front end I have a fuel pressure regulator that sends the excess fuel back to the tank. I think that setup is causing the #1 cylinder to starve for fuel. What I am going to do to fix it is run a hose between the front of both fuel rails making a complete circle. I'm hoping that will keep even pressure through out the system. I'm also going to keep a close eye on my plugs and make sure they all look the same. One of the cool things about a fully sequential setup is that you can adjust the fuel per cylinder. Ill explain the next issue I had soon

Are you running 02 sensors on both banks? I wonder if you would see some weird variations on the left bank from the O2 sensor using an Oscilloscope.
1970 Dodge Charger R/T.. Owned since 1981

perlhaqr

Strange that it didn't show up when I looked before I posted the last time, but it looks like Summit is still having their 50th anniversary sale for the rest of the month.  $50 off an order of $500, which means the XT manifold works out to about $469 shipped.

MechTech

Currently I am running left and right sensors and I have installed O2 bungs in every cylinder but I have not started monitoring them individually yet. 14point7.com has a device called Mega Spartan that I have been drooling over for sometime, with it I can monitor 8 cylinders with O2 sensors (the base model comes with 2) it communicates via the Can/Bus of the MegaSquirt 3. I believe the LSU4.9 Bosch O2 sensor will give me a much more accurate and a quicker reading than a temp sensor. I am not certain at this point the way I had the fuel system setup caused the problem with the pistons it just seems highly suspect so I made the change I wrote about and I will closely monitor #1 cylinder and see if it changes.

MechTech

I've had these parts advertised for $450 all together I will also sell them individually if you would like. The trigger wheel can only be used with an Aluminum damper. It uses a Hall sensor.

perlhaqr

So, with the big sale at Summit I want to buy as much of this stuff as I can.

Redmist, do you have a list of all the required parts?

Manifold, obviously.

CPS, fuel rails, fuel injectors.

I'm running a '74 Satellite, so, not fancy in-tank pump setup for me, at least not the nice one that y'all are using.

What sort of fuel pump setup should I run?

Fuel lines will be needed, of course.

Any other bits and bobs I should look for while everything is discounted?

redmist

Sorry, I don't have a list....

And I no longer have my car.  :'(   :icon_smile_cool:   It went to Australia!



I do still sell the Jakefab Fuel Pucks that work for the EFI conversions in the Tanks Inc tanks.




I am building a Twin Turbo Aluminator 1965 F-100 to replace the Charger.
JUNKTRAVELER: all I've seen in this thread is a bunch of bullies and 3 guys that actually give a crap.

funknut

Sounds like a fun project!  Do you have a build thread somewhere? I enjoyed your Charger build and would like to see what you're up to on this one too. :)

Derwud

Morning All...

What is everyone using for a Thermostat housing with the XT Manifold?
1970 Dodge Charger R/T.. Owned since 1981

MechTech

I am not using anything special, basically stock looking just chromed.