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Who wants to Megasquirt, full sequential fuel/ spark a 68 charger! This Guy!!

Started by redmist, February 24, 2013, 11:51:50 PM

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grnfsh

Quote from: MechTech on April 12, 2016, 08:40:54 PM
It may be there is a hole there already it has a 2" plastic plug in it. I put a hole in that plug and brought it thru that way.

yeah I think there is. Going to roll under there today to see about it.

grnfsh

ok, everything is wired and ready to go but it doesnt run. I Have a fuel issues as if I spray some starting fluid in the manifold it will run, and actually idles nicely for about 8-10 seconds before running out of fuel.

I've got a brand new tanks inc tank, with the in tank walboro pump. I'm using an aeromotive pressure regulator and checked to make sure I had the right spring in it. I can't adjust fuel pressure because it bleeds down when the pump is off.

One thing of note. When I first sorted everything yesterday and went to get it going the pump had a much smoother higher frequency sound to it than it does now. I messed with some settings but did not do a good job of documenting what i did. Now it sounds deeper and actually pulses sometimes.

I Tested the injectors in test mode and they all seem to be working fine

My fuel lines are in a loop, going from the tank to the pump and though the filter, here is a diagram.




redmist

My guess is that you have ASE After Start Enrichment settings that are covering a tuning problem for those 8-10 seconds.

When you start the car, ASE will run for a set time, and then taper off. Check ASE first, but I would also start a log, and start the car... After it does it's thing, go back to your log and watch injector pulse width. If injector pulse width tapers off (Goes from say 10MS to 4MS) and then dies, you have confirmed that it's a tuning issue, and not related to your fuel system.

It will literally tell you what it's doing! You just have to take the time to look!   :2thumbs:
JUNKTRAVELER: all I've seen in this thread is a bunch of bullies and 3 guys that actually give a crap.

grnfsh

I Have a gauge on the regulator under the hood. I just put a trigger on the starter relay so I could watch it while cranking. There is almost 0 fuel pressure. It pulses up to about 5psi at most. I'm thinking my pump may be bad or have a clog in the line. but with brand new lines and pump why would that happen?

grnfsh

Quote from: redmist on April 16, 2016, 02:25:19 PM
My guess is that you have ASE After Start Enrichment settings that are covering a tuning problem for those 8-10 seconds.

When you start the car, ASE will run for a set time, and then taper off. Check ASE first, but I would also start a log, and start the car... After it does it's thing, go back to your log and watch injector pulse width. If injector pulse width tapers off (Goes from say 10MS to 4MS) and then dies, you have confirmed that it's a tuning issue, and not related to your fuel system.

It will literally tell you what it's doing! You just have to take the time to look!   :2thumbs:

ok, ill check that also, thanks

redmist

When you turn the key on, you should have a two second pump prime that takes place. You should also be able to go into test mode in Tuner Studio and activate the pump with the key on only. I use this feature to drain my tank when I am working on it.

Are you running your pump through the Megasquirt? It sounds like you have it just wired to the car or something possibly?

Ryan
JUNKTRAVELER: all I've seen in this thread is a bunch of bullies and 3 guys that actually give a crap.

Black_Bee

Quote from: redmist on April 16, 2016, 05:58:28 PM
When you turn the key on, you should have a two second pump prime that takes place. You should also be able to go into test mode in Tuner Studio and activate the pump with the key on only. I use this feature to drain my tank when I am working on it.

Are you running your pump through the Megasquirt? It sounds like you have it just wired to the car or something possibly?

Ryan

I second this... you can set your fuel pump to stay on in Tuner Studio to test it and set the pressure to what you want.  If your fuel pressure gauge on the regulator is at zero while the pump is running, then your pump isn't picking up any fuel for some reason.  You sure there is gas in the tank?

:cheers:

peterro

Ok, stupid question here. I had it running/driving (with lots of issues) last fall and was so sick of fighting with it, I parked it until now. Time to get it dialed in. I just installed an Innovate O2 sensor which I think will help the tuning once.

It starts and runs very smooth and throttle response is amazing so I think I'm pretty close. The issue I have is that it won't settle on an idle, it just dies when I let off the throttle. Stupid question here: Is it normal to have to idle it up with the idle set screw? Wow, that sounds dumb as I write it, but I was under the impression that the IAC would handle that. Also what TPS percentage would be normal for setting the screw?

At this point my bigger issue is that I cheaped out on valve covers and they don't fit right and the gasket won't seal. So I'm off to 440 Source to do the job right.

Thanks again for all the help.

grnfsh

Quote from: redmist on April 16, 2016, 05:58:28 PM
When you turn the key on, you should have a two second pump prime that takes place. You should also be able to go into test mode in Tuner Studio and activate the pump with the key on only. I use this feature to drain my tank when I am working on it.

Are you running your pump through the Megasquirt? It sounds like you have it just wired to the car or something possibly?

Ryan

ahh.. ok I was not aware of that feature.. yes I am running through the MS. Ill give that a go as well.

MechTech

Quote from: peterro on April 16, 2016, 09:15:43 PM
Ok, stupid question here. I had it running/driving (with lots of issues) last fall and was so sick of fighting with it, I parked it until now. Time to get it dialed in. I just installed an Innovate O2 sensor which I think will help the tuning once.

It starts and runs very smooth and throttle response is amazing so I think I'm pretty close. The issue I have is that it won't settle on an idle, it just dies when I let off the throttle. Stupid question here: Is it normal to have to idle it up with the idle set screw? Wow, that sounds dumb as I write it, but I was under the impression that the IAC would handle that. Also what TPS percentage would be normal for setting the screw?

My motor was doing that when I got it running then I found a table under Startup/idle there you will find the idle VE table it needs to be turned on and the rpm and throttle position set. If the throttle position or idle speed go over those settings it causes your idle to very. you also need to adjust the table for the air/fuel ratio that you want at idle. I have found that my car likes 19 afr at idle if for some reason on my setup the idle or throttle position doesn't drop below the settings in the Idle VE table its starts idling rich like 13 afr so if I am sitting a traffic light to long like that the motor will bog and stall. There are a lot of different settings I call them toys in the box to play with. I am glad to hear that you added an O2 sensor its an imperative for tuning these things.

grnfsh

Update:

So i went out this morning with a fresh charged battery and a new outlook on life....

I enabled test mode on the fuel pump and I hear it humming along sounding just fine. That was encouraging.

But I still have no pressure.  I run the adjustment in on the regulator and I can hear a very distinct difference in sound of the fuel pump. still no reading on the gauge but It is much lower frequency and sounds to be struggling a bit. So now I'm thinking the pump is fine, its the regulator.

any way to test a regulator?

also, When I took the regulator apart to switch springs there is a possibility I didnt re assemble it correctly. Does any one have an exploded view of the aeromotive insides?

redmist

It sounds to me like something is dead headed, turned all the way down, or assembled incorrectly as you stated.

You should be able to turn on that pump in TS, and walk over and see pressure!

JUNKTRAVELER: all I've seen in this thread is a bunch of bullies and 3 guys that actually give a crap.

Derwud

Are you getting pressure and volume before the fuel rails? I would pull the line at the first fuel rail and make sure it flows and then check for pressure there first, without the regulator. Shouldn't you have sone one way valve(s) that would help retain pressure after shut down..
1970 Dodge Charger R/T.. Owned since 1981

grnfsh

Quote from: Derwud on April 17, 2016, 03:56:13 PM
Are you getting pressure and volume before the fuel rails? I would pull the line at the first fuel rail and make sure it flows and then check for pressure there first, without the regulator. Shouldn't you have sone one way valve(s) that would help retain pressure after shut down..

well, possibly but with these aeromotive regulators they do not keep pressure when the pump is not running.

YellowThumper

I would start with disconnecting your line at the tank and regulator. Carefully with air blow thru line to see if it flows air on an open line.
Yes?
Connect a line to tank that dumps into a gas can and blip the pump to see if it pumps.
As for the regulator I would suspect you can do the same with air thru it to see if you get air out of it at the given pressure. Pressure is pressure. Whether its air or liquid.

Hope to see you get it sorted soon.

Mike
ANY policy that provides more to some based on race, gender, etc...over others is wrong and only perpetuates what it intends to correct.

grnfsh

yeah, i'm  a freaking idiot that's what happened.  Fuel filter was backwards.  :brickwall: :RantExplode:

car still doesnt start but I have good fuel pressure now. Onward !!

redmist

JUNKTRAVELER: all I've seen in this thread is a bunch of bullies and 3 guys that actually give a crap.

MechTech

This is a good time to look at your AFR gage and see what it says after you have cranked it over a little. If its near 20 you may need to add some fuel if its near 10 you'll need to reduce the fuel and you may also need to clear the flood. There is a flood clear setting mine is set around 30% what its for is if you have flooded the engine you push the pedal past 30% the injectors will stop pumping and hopefully the engine starts.

grnfsh

Quote from: MechTech on April 21, 2016, 07:44:16 PM
This is a good time to look at your AFR gage and see what it says after you have cranked it over a little. If its near 20 you may need to add some fuel if its near 10 you'll need to reduce the fuel and you may also need to clear the flood. There is a flood clear setting mine is set around 30% what its for is if you have flooded the engine you push the pedal past 30% the injectors will stop pumping and hopefully the engine starts.

Cool, thanks, i put it down after Thursday and went to spring carlisle to clear my head. Ill get back at it tomorrow

grnfsh

My AFR isnt budging when I crank. Also, I dont hear my injectors cycling when I turn on the MS like I usually do. I did test mode and it appears that they are pulsing but I can barely hear it if at all.

redmist

JUNKTRAVELER: all I've seen in this thread is a bunch of bullies and 3 guys that actually give a crap.


redmist

grnfish.

I went through your MSQ and it's all sorts a messed... Perhaps!

Can you give a full run down of your build??

Injectors?
Idle Control Valve?
Are you using the Jeep CPS?
What cam are you running?

Lets see what you are working with, my initial thoughts is that my tune may be an almost plug and play for your car, but I want to get some input on your build first.


Ryan
JUNKTRAVELER: all I've seen in this thread is a bunch of bullies and 3 guys that actually give a crap.

grnfsh

Quote from: redmist on April 24, 2016, 10:43:45 PM
grnfish.

I went through your MSQ and it's all sorts a messed... Perhaps!

Can you give a full run down of your build??

Injectors?
Idle Control Valve?
Are you using the Jeep CPS?
What cam are you running?

Lets see what you are working with, my initial thoughts is that my tune may be an almost plug and play for your car, but I want to get some input on your build first.


Ryan

Pretty similar to your engine. I'm using all the same sensors you are using. I pretty much went down the line and just did what you did as far as sensors go. Same coils, Jeep CPS, GM ICV, TPS, MAP sensor, IAC sensor etc.  Injectors are the Ford EV14 Shelby 55lb injectors The only difference may be is I'm using the 14point7 o2 sensors, but they are plug and play with the MS and I am 99.9% sure they are set up correctly. Real similar to the innovate stuff.

My cam is a racerbrown 520 Hyd cam. Edelbrock heads, on pump gas

email me back your MSQ and ill load it and see what happens

YellowThumper

Quote from: grnfsh on April 25, 2016, 06:07:52 AM
Quote from: redmist on April 24, 2016, 10:43:45 PM
grnfish.

I went through your MSQ and it's all sorts a messed... Perhaps!

Can you give a full run down of your build??

Injectors?
Idle Control Valve?
Are you using the Jeep CPS?
What cam are you running?

Lets see what you are working with, my initial thoughts is that my tune may be an almost plug and play for your car, but I want to get some input on your build first.


Ryan

Pretty similar to your engine. I'm using all the same sensors you are using. I pretty much went down the line and just did what you did as far as sensors go. Same coils, Jeep CPS, GM ICV, TPS, MAP sensor, IAC sensor etc.  Injectors are the Ford EV14 Shelby 55lb injectors The only difference may be is I'm using the 14point7 o2 sensors, but they are plug and play with the MS and I am 99.9% sure they are set up correctly. Real similar to the innovate stuff.

My cam is a racerbrown 520 Hyd cam. Edelbrock heads, on pump gas

email me back your MSQ and ill load it and see what happens

:popcrn:
ANY policy that provides more to some based on race, gender, etc...over others is wrong and only perpetuates what it intends to correct.