Who wants to Megasquirt, full sequential fuel/ spark a 68 charger! This Guy!!

[grnfsh]

First of all I want to thank everyone for posting to this tread, especially Redmist.  I've been copying it for 2 years.  My problem is how do you keep power to the Megasquirt when cranking?  I have a 74 Barracuda. I have started the engine by hot wire but now am trying with the key.  Earlier posts say to hook the brown wire from the ballast to keep it hot.   But when I do that the car will crank with the key in the run position  

Did you guys add a separate switch anywhere?  or do you do it all with the key as I'm wanting to do.

Below are 2 pictures of my install, 2nd with my cold air box.

I wired a separate switch just to get the car running. I figure Ill work out getting it on the key later on.

[WHITE AND RED 69]

The TCR9A-T doesn't come up when searching under 1968 Charger but it does come up using the part #. Price is $210.97.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-tcr9a-t

They caught my order and swapped out the parts.

Troy

Nice! $210 is a good deal too. I paid full price on mine like a sucker! 

[MechTech]

Ross Machine Racing says he is closer to making chips on this intake. I thought I would post a picture to see how much interest there is in it. This is a 440 version a 383 version should not be far behind. One of the advantages of this intake is that it will have more consistent airflow from cylinder to cylinder because it is all CNC machined nothing cast all billet no aluminum sheet. The throttle body that is mounted on the intake is 5" diameter.

[grnfsh]

HOLY CRAP that is awesome!!  I'd be in, how much?

[MechTech]

I know I want one. Ill try to get some idea of the cost

[redmist]

Are they making it themselves? Need a machine shop??  
I would imagine that would be about a $1500 intake!

[grnfsh]

Are they making it themselves? Need a machine shop??  
I would imagine that would be about a $1500 intake!

Looks like Ill be digging for more parts to sell to dig up funds.  Either that or prostitute myself.

[MechTech]

Ross Machine Racing said it hopefully be around the $1500 mark I am going to start looking for what I can sell also.
redmist Ross will be making them they have the machines its the time that's the problem.

[Zero4luck]

Mech Tech, on the crank trigger kit, is there any reason you don't recommend the setup for a steel balancer? I have had everything to put my build together for nearly a year waiting on jerry for Superior design to finish his crank trigger setups. Any recommendations on this and what it would cost I already have the ford sensor. I would love to have this thing up and running on ms3x by spring but without a crank kit I'm stalled still.

[grnfsh]

Mech Tech, on the crank trigger kit, is there any reason you don't recommend the setup for a steel balancer? I have had everything to put my build together for nearly a year waiting on jerry for Superior design to finish his crank trigger setups. Any recommendations on this and what it would cost I already have the ford sensor. I would love to have this thing up and running on ms3x by spring but without a crank kit I'm stalled still.

I have the same kit as mech tech,  I didnt actually test it with the steel damper, but I think because the wheel sits right up flush with the damper the sensor may have difficulty picking up the teeth on the wheel. also, my stock damper had a ridge on it that kept the wheel offset away from the damper about 1/8 inch. While this would have likely been beneficial to the sensor, it offset my pulley too much. I suppose you could space out the other pulleys to compensate. I switched to the ATI damper which is a great damper, its just pricey

You could give it a try to see if the sensor picks up the teeth or not first before you buy the damper.

[Zero4luck]

I didn't think about that situation. Hopefully he will weigh in on it later and pm the info or share it on here. Thanks again

[funknut]

Ross Machine Racing said it hopefully be around the $1500 mark I am going to start looking for what I can sell also.
redmist Ross will be making them they have the machines its the time that's the problem.

Very cool looking part for sure!

$1500 might be a bit spendy for me, but if anyone goes this route and wants to sell a pro-flo xt, I'm interested.   

[Black_Bee]

Mech Tech, on the crank trigger kit, is there any reason you don't recommend the setup for a steel balancer? I have had everything to put my build together for nearly a year waiting on jerry for Superior design to finish his crank trigger setups. Any recommendations on this and what it would cost I already have the ford sensor. I would love to have this thing up and running on ms3x by spring but without a crank kit I'm stalled still.

I waited for Jerry's kit for about a month this past spring when he first announced it.  It was always a day or two away from having pics of it, but it never was.  Not his fault, I'm sure everything else gets in the way of such a niche product.

I bought a 36-1 wheel from DIYAutotune.com for $30 and had a machine shop open it up and weld it to my stock crank pulley (to the position I specified) for like $40.  Added the Jeep crank sensor for $30 too.  I figured that when/if Jerry's kit comes out and is significantly nicer, I could afford to lose the $100 I had into my setup, if it meant that I had the car up and running sooner.  Now that it is running, I really cant imagine myself ever removing it.

[MechTech]

Hi zero4luck grnfsh is right I don't know that it wont work but I'm concerned that it wont and I just want people buying this setup to be aware of a potential problem if you are using a steel damper. The sensor bracket is designed to be used with the DIY Hall Sensor. I have 5 sets almost complete 3 of which I believe are sold so if you are interested send me a PM. When Ross gets one of those done Ill have an intake for sale. Because of all the cool design features he is doing to this intake I'm sure it will make more horsepower than the pro flo XT

[redmist]

Ross Machine Racing said it hopefully be around the $1500 mark I am going to start looking for what I can sell also.
redmist Ross will be making them they have the machines its the time that's the problem.

I might know a guy with a couple Makino A51NX Horizontals on a 24 pallet cell that could possibly have time.   

[MechTech]

That sounds like a sweet machine, how many tools does the magazine hold?

[grnfsh]

My intention over this winter is to put O2 bungs in each header tube 6 inch's or so prior to the collector and run 4 O2 sensors. Air flow is different per cylinder for many reasons so I want to take advantage of being able to adjust fuel per cylinder and see what kind of performance gains I can achieve. I guess that's a bit anal but its like I said before there are lots of toys in the Megasquirt box so this is the next one I want to play with.

Back to the O2 sensor topic. Are you running wide or narrow band, if wide band what controllers are you using?

[grnfsh]

ok, guys new topic.  Alternators

i want to upgrade my alternator while i'm at it because well, I probably need to adding extra electronics. I've removed the original ignition wiring harness from the car and don't plan to use it again.

I like the 440 Source alternator or something like it. What did you guys who upgraded go with and how did you wire it if you didnt use the factory harness?

I used a 440 Source kit, but I am 99% sure that you could just use stock brackets (with a slight massaging) and a store-bought Denso alternator.  Also, the kit doesn't come with the pigtail for the alternator for some reason.

The connector I used was this one: http://www.repairconnector.com/products/Mitsubishi-Nippondenso-Alternator-Repair-Connector-3-Wire-Round.html

I fried the alternator that 440 Source sent me and ordered this one from Amazon to replace and its identical.  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5WBHS

I ran a large gauge wire to the starter relay for the output wire, and a couple of smaller sense wires to the same place.  I bypassed my dash's ammeter too.

I think its only a 60 amp alternator, but it keeps up with my electrical load just fine so far. Really, other than the in-tank Stealth 340 pump and the EFI related bits (none of it is very power hungry), my car's electrical needs are kind of low as I have no stereo or electric fan (I plan to add both at some point).  I do have upgraded headlights which I suppose are a bit of a draw too.

I used a 120amp Denso unit for a John Deere tractor.

It just barely fits from bracket to head! It's a larger unit depth wise, but the price is just right.



http://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-AND0221-Alternator-Tractor/dp/B00Q8LROIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447722562&sr=8-1&keywords=denso+120+amp+alternator+John+Deere

Redmist, is that alt a one wire?

[funknut]

I used a 120amp Denso unit for a John Deere tractor.

It just barely fits from bracket to head! It's a larger unit depth wise, but the price is just right.



http://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-AND0221-Alternator-Tractor/dp/B00Q8LROIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447722562&sr=8-1&keywords=denso+120+amp+alternator+John+Deere

Redmist, is that alt a one wire?

According to the link it's internally regulated, so yep!

[grnfsh]

I used a 120amp Denso unit for a John Deere tractor.

It just barely fits from bracket to head! It's a larger unit depth wise, but the price is just right.



http://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-AND0221-Alternator-Tractor/dp/B00Q8LROIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447722562&sr=8-1&keywords=denso+120+amp+alternator+John+Deere

Redmist, is that alt a one wire?

According to the link it's internally regulated, so yep!

oh, so internally regulated = One wire? Got it,  thanks

[MechTech]

hi grnfsh
Here's a link that might help you out (http://wiki.efihacks.com/index.php?title=Bosch_LSU_4.9_vs_LSU_4.2).  I'm using the Innovate LC-2 if you look on eBay some of the descriptions include the Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor I believe the LSU 4.9 is faster and more accurate than what most of them are LSU 4.2. The LC-2 is easy to install just 3 wires power, ground and signal. Some of the units on eBay don't include a gage so be careful there. 

[grnfsh]

Thanks, I was looking at the innovate LC-2 kit. that is likely what Ill go with

[grnfsh]

hi grnfsh
Some of the units on eBay don't include a gage so be careful there. 

Why do I need a gauge? Wont I be able to read the O2 sensors through Megasquirt?

[grnfsh]

Thought I'd share a progress pic to help motivate those who are still in progress. I powder coated my valve covers, the color doesnt quite match but then again the paint on the engine is old. I'm just mocking everything up and making sure the hood cleared (Barely) Looks cool huh?

[MechTech]

A gage is nice so that you can see immediately what's going on when the motor is not running right. Its tough to catch looking over at your laptop while driving.