Who wants to Megasquirt, full sequential fuel/ spark a 68 charger! This Guy!!

[Black_Bee]

After a night of thinking about my issue, I think my VE table is probably not right. The car starts and sort of idles at ~15-1700 for 1-2 seconds before falling flat as if without any fuel. Anyone have a good link for the specs of a 78 Winnebago 440 for a starting point to feed into the table generator?

Thanks again.

Are you getting sync losses while attempting to run it?   I believe that you you can be WAY off on the VE tables and still have it at least stay running for a while, but if it loses sync, it will never stay running (this is what my 383 did).  Do a regular datalog (datalogging -> "start logging") and see if there are any sync losses captured in there when it dies.

Also, are you relying on the IAC valve to keep the engine running, or can you keep it running by using the gas pedal?  Assuming that there is one, have you set the throttle body idle adjustment screws?

[peterro]

I do see loss at the very beginning of cranking but it goes away and is clean at the end. I had adjusted the pots on the ms3x all CCW and the CW 2.75 turns on R11? When I tried the throttle, it seemed to do nothing. I captured logs and posted them (with config) over on the megasquirt forum for some help there. (http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=59597). After the pot adjustment, it does start easier though sometimes coughs through the manifold. 

Today I don't hate the car, but Saturday was a different story. I was ready to push the car into the corner of the shop and forget about it until spring.

[MechTech]

Hi peterro
I was pulling my hair out last winter trying to figure mine out it turned out to be a simple setting. keep at it Ill try to get my tune to you its for a 600 horse motor so you will need to back off the VE table under fuel settings and Idle VE table under Startup Idle. Do you have a gauge for your O2 sensor (very helpful when troubleshooting). Also you may need to adjust your afterstart enrichment time ASE or your warmup enrichment WUE. They should be under Startup/Idle. You may also need to adjust Required Fuel under Basic Load Settings / Engine Sequential Settings

[peterro]

Well, the stupid TB linkage set screw was loose which helped a lot. It now starts and runs but only with fiddling with the throttle and it won't idle. Still, as bad as it is, it's never been so smooth. Thoughts on what to change? If you're interested, logs are posted at the link in the previous post.

At least it's getting better.

[grnfsh]

I really need to get off my ass and get going on my instal

[MechTech]

Hi peterro
Check your Idle VE table under Idle Startup it needs to be turned on

[peterro]

Thanks, I'll give that a shot.

On the megasquirt forum, they mentioned that I had a lot of advance at idle and to back it off as well as bumping up the idle set screw. I don't have the table here at work to post but was wondering if I could see other examples if they would apply being a basically stock motor. I think I'm in low 20s but I'm not sure without looking at it. I also hadn't messed with the idle set screw as it's only very stable at about 1500rpms which seems a bit high even when cold.

Also, at what point should I start messing with the auto-tune feature?

Thanks again

[67Charger440]

Mech, redmist,

Are you guys selling the brackets and toothed wheel yet?  I have money and NEED  one of each!

[Black_Bee]

Thanks, I'll give that a shot.

On the megasquirt forum, they mentioned that I had a lot of advance at idle and to back it off as well as bumping up the idle set screw. I don't have the table here at work to post but was wondering if I could see other examples if they would apply being a basically stock motor. I think I'm in low 20s but I'm not sure without looking at it. I also hadn't messed with the idle set screw as it's only very stable at about 1500rpms which seems a bit high even when cold.

Also, at what point should I start messing with the auto-tune feature?

Thanks again

While still trying to get it to run right, try using fixed advance timing... set it to something that we all know works like 18*.

Then, try completely disabling the IAC and opening up the idle screw even more.

By doing this,  you will be able to remove these two variables from consideration.  When you get it to idle, you can easily go back and set these values.

I too was ready to give up on my car (at least for the summer)... although honestly I have hardly driven & tuned the car due to simply being burned out from the extended build.

[redmist]

Nope, not me, I am full on 100% making guns right now.

[grnfsh]

Nope, not me, I am full on 100% making guns right now.

Redmist is making freedom

[peterro]

Nope, not me, I am full on 100% making guns right now.

Redmist is making freedom

[peterro]

Success! Woo Hoo! After a VE table regeneration, it started and ran like it should. Still more tuning to be done but it's about ready to drive.

The problem I'm seeing now is that the TB doesn't return to fully closed after a throttle hit. Not good. It's a cheap ebay item. I'm going to try some silicone lube on the shaft which may help but the spring doesn't feel strong enough. I actually have to close it manually with my hand to get it to fully idle down. Anyone have any other ideas? Can't drive without throttle control. I also need to do some more kickdown cable adjustments.

[redmist]

Congrats!!!



Whatever you do, DO NOT change the required fuel as a part of tuning. Use the VE table only!

[MechTech]

You could try a secondary spring I attached a picture of my setup. I Pimp for Ross Machine Racing throttle bodies they have a pretty strong spring. The reason I  have a secondary spring is because NHRA requires a backup spring

[MechTech]

Is there anyone else that wants a trigger wheel and sensor bracket. I am recommending this wheel not be used unless you have an aluminum vibration damper.   

[Derwud]

Is there anyone else that wants a trigger wheel and sensor bracket. I am recommending this wheel not be used unless you have an aluminum vibration damper.   

How much and which damper do you recommend for a street engine and that set-up?

[MechTech]

I use an ATI damper the brand does not mater as long as the shell is aluminum. I am quessing I can make a for set for $140. the sensor bracket is designed to be used with the DIYAUTOTUNE.COM Hall Effect Crankshaft Position Sensor.

[Aussiemadonmopars]

I use an ATI damper the brand does not mater as long as the shell is aluminum. I am quessing I can make a for set for $140. the sensor bracket is designed to be used with the DIYAUTOTUNE.COM Hall Effect Crankshaft Position Sensor.

Would you have to shim the pulleys or turn down the damper for a lip to make it fit?

[MechTech]

It should attach without any modifications. The trigger wheel is 3/16" thick I put a 1/16" undercut in it which allows the pulley to pilot onto the damper. I supply the sensor bracket with spacers that fit my setup.

[Aussiemadonmopars]

It should attach without any modifications. The trigger wheel is 3/16" thick I put a 1/16" undercut in it which allows the pulley to pilot onto the damper. I supply the sensor bracket with spacers that fit my setup.

PM already sent, I'm in for one.   

[Derwud]

I am in, I need to do a little extra research as I was planning to go to a ribbed belt set-up..

[peterro]

Thanks mechtech. I pulled the TB cam off and drilled a mount for a return spring and that worked great.

So far, all my work has been in the engine compartment with a remote starter switch. I was about to take it out for a spin to get gas and do some tuning and realized that when I start with the key, the computer loses power. I believe my "switched" power is on with the key but seems to shut off when cranking. What did you guys use for switched power that doesn't drop when cranking?

[redmist]

If I remember right, I used both sides of the resister connectors together.

I rewired my car since then, but I believe that's how it was setup before.

[MechTech]

I used an external switch. I saw on Gas Monkey Garage when they were installing an EFI system. They used a delay off timer relay which seems like a good way to get around the problem. I am using two switches one that turns on the megasquirt and the other turns on the coils and oxygen sensors. The switches turn on 40amp relays that power fuse blocks