Who wants to Megasquirt, full sequential fuel/ spark a 68 charger! This Guy!!

[tallpole]

A HUGE thank you to Redmist for creating this post and filling it with so much useful info. I really appreciate the time and effort as it saved me so much time and effort. I have a 69 R/T that was running a tempermental POS six pak and now is running MS3 sequential fuel and spark. I built the system this winter and finally drove it last week. WHAT A FREAKIN DIFFERENCE! Bye bye carbs!

[redmist]

Perfect!!!!!

As more get on board, we need to start comparing tune data and such.

[igozumn]

What color orange? 

[tallpole]

I believe it's a modern version of "go mango". It's a Chrysler color from around 2006. It looks like metallic copper in the sunlight. It was this color when I got it. The car was originally built by a member: Pistolpete (?).

Can't thank you enough Redmist. There's enough info in this thread to build the whole system. I'm still working on the tune but I can't believe the difference. Sooo smooth. I thought I had a lumpy cam but nope just badly metered fuel and spark.

[Charger-Bodie]

Claudia.

[igozumn]

Ah!  I remember the Charger Daytona's being that color around 2006.  Cool. 

And yes, this has become only one of less than a handful of Charger threads/discussions I make note to check in on.  As my post count indicates, I don't spend much time posting here.  My Charger while mobile and excercised occasionally, is not my primary focus/project right now.  But the EFI has got me thinking about my long term plans.  I now have 2 pieces, LOL, for my setup.  Actually searched out any redmist posts across the net and came across a thread on a pro touring website that had his cold air intake mod and gauge cluster.   

[tallpole]

Igozumin: it is a lot of work but very satisfying and I have learned a ton navigating my way through this.

[peterro]

That looks awesome and yes it is very satisfying along with the steep learning curve. I have a slim chance of possibly firing mine up this weekend for the first time. I should at least get all the sensors wired up and tested. I'm shooting for getting to the Mopar Nationals (show and drags) in Woodburn OR on the 26th.

This week I was pretty excited about pushing the button on my laptop and having my electric fans spin up. Very cool. I'm almost a member of the club. Can't wait.

[peterro]

Nearly everything wired and I was able to test all the sensors, coils, and injectors on the car. Very cool. One thing I do need to know is where you got the coil adapters for your existing wires? The local shop didn't know what I was talking about and I haven't found any with my searches.

Thanks again.

[redmist]

You mean the LS Coil boots to cut down your wires and crimp on??

[peterro]

Yep.

[redmist]

Yep.

Boom!


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-3304/overview/

[MechTech]

Hi All
  it's great seeing all of the progress you guys are making I am willing to share my tune with anyone. I am currently running 11.07 in my 3800lb Coronet
 
   tallpole the way you have your coils is very interesting I would appreciate a better picture of how you mounted the coils.

  redmist have you tried running in closed loop fueling? What I mean is have you tried to setup the controller so that it's adjusting the fuel based on the information it gets from the oxygen sensor. i worked with it a little but don't have it right yet.
 
  Another thing I've done recently is setup Shadow Dash I was able to eliminate from my dash and steering column the tachometer, shift light, oxygen sensor gauge and fuel pressure gauge. With the Shadow Dash I have the tach, miles per hour, left & right side oxygen sensor, water temp. battery volts, fuel pressure, air intake temperature and you can set the tachometer on Shadow Dash so that it turns Red when the RPM gets to whatever rpm you have it set to so it takes the place of the shift light. You can also start and stop data logging from it.

  I was at the Chrysler Nationals at Carlisle this past weekend and they had an expiremental version of the Hellcat called the Hellcat X it's a one of one. They incorporated a twin turbo setup with the supercharger. I,d love to drive that. A charity is raffling the Hellcat X and a 1970 Challenger 440RT as one prize.

  Anyway good tuning all

[redmist]

Yes!

Please post your tune..

I am closed loop at idle as well as normal operation.


However with a good VE Map, I see it as not needed for the most part.

[tallpole]

Mechtech: I will post a better picture when I get home. The coils are held in a bracket I cnc plasma'd and they bolt to some studs that hold the fuel rail in place. Seems to work for now. The same brackets hold my fuel rails at the correct height for my injectors without using adapters: I'm using the 2013/14 GT500 injectors that are an intermediate height.

[tallpole]

So these are my coil brackets. Please excuse the mess. I haven't loomed the wires yet... figure I'd put some miles on and make sure everything is okay before I hide them away. The coils are packed pretty tight but seem to be happy.

On an unrelated note: pulled a header bolt for the first time and washed my feet in coolant. Really?? Header bolts that extend into the water jacket. Must have been designed on april 1st.

[tallpole]

11.07 Mechtech?? Holy crap that's fast. What's your engine/tranny?

[MechTech]

hi tallpole
    I like to see Mopars beating Chevy's and Ford's. So here's the skinny It's a 30 over 440 11.3 to 1 compression (pump gas only) The heads are Procomp 72cc closed chamber they currently flow 348cfm at .600 lift. These heads have the intake and exhaust ports raised and they use an offset intake rocker, If anyone buys these heads definitely buy them bare. The guides, valves and springs are junk, so far the casting seems to be OK. I'm running a 520 lift Racer Brown cam with 1.6 rockers. The headers are close to 2" od. The trans is a 727 with a Cheetah reverse shift manual valve body a bolt in sprag the converter is a ATI 8" treemaster it actually flashes to 5600 rpm ( I love it). The rear a 4.10 Dana with 12.5" Mickey Thompson drag radials. The air intake if you notice the black pipe on the throttle body slides over a fitting mounted in the hood which is surrounded by a 440 sixpack air filter under a racer brown hood scoop. It ran 10.92 pryor to some changes that I made hopefully I can make the proper adjustments to get back there. I drive it to the track. Ill post my tune soon.

[tallpole]

Mechtech: Thanks for the info. It's nice to see someone running that fast with a non-stroked, streetable 440. I've got my eye on the new TFS heads -when they make it to market- I hope they live up to the hype. Have you dyno tuned your combo?

[Aussiemadonmopars]

Hey would something like this work? It adapts to the mopar harmonic balancer and then uses a.... hmmm,hmmm... Chevy... 3 bolt toothed wheel.

[grnfsh]

So these are my coil brackets. Please excuse the mess. I haven't loomed the wires yet... figure I'd put some miles on and make sure everything is okay before I hide them away. The coils are packed pretty tight but seem to be happy.

On an unrelated note: pulled a header bolt for the first time and washed my feet in coolant. Really?? Header bolts that extend into the water jacket. Must have been designed on april 1st.

That bracket is pretty trick, did you make that? oh and yes, i found out the hard way once that the header bolts go into the water jackets

[SaskRunner]

I have really enjoyed this thread.

It inspired me to conervt my Charger.

I need a little advice though on the crank trigger wheel.

I had a MSD flying magnet crank trigger on the motor.  Using a ATI damper with the magnets embedded directly into the damper shell.

I want to use the same crank sensor in the current location.  I am getting ATI to make a new shell for the damper with a 36-1 pattern in it.

My question is where to put the missing tooth.  

I think at TDC on the damper.

The sensor is about 30-70 degrees on the pass side of the motor from TDC.  

Will this work?

There is a PDF of ATI's shop drawing attached

[tallpole]

GRNFSH: I did make the bracket with a little cnc plasma table I have.
SASKRUNNER: there is a section in the MS3 manual (around page 122 of 212) that goes into positioning the missing tooth/tdc and the sensor. From memory...  you need to give the computer time to read TDC (especially at high rpms) so you want to set it up that the sensor sees the gap then a few teeth (as set in the manual) and then TDC. Mine has the gap set so the sensor sees TDC approximately 5 teeth after the gap.

I THINK.... that it's not critical where the missing tooth is as long as the position of the sensor relative to the gap gives the computer time to read a few teeth before TDC.

If your gap and sensor were both at TDC then not enough time. Your gap at TDC and your sensor set 50 degrees counterclockwise to TDC= enough time.


I hope this helps

[tallpole]

"SASKRUNNER" are you from a flat province with a lot of farmers? If so I'm one province west of you.

[MechTech]

 
tallpole I have not ever had this car on a Dyno I just datalog at the track and make adjustments to the afr. I run around 12.7 afr at wide open throttle.

Aussiemadonmopars I am pretty sure that I read in a forum I think on DIY that 60 teeth did not work well for high rpm I don't recall how high they were talking about but look into it before you go that way. A 36 tooth does seem to be plenty accurate it has not missed a beat yet.

SaskRunner tooth one ( which is the first tooth after the missing tooth) is supposed to show up 40deg. BTD. that's where I have mine and so does redmist. In my experience the flying magnet is difficult to adjust in the megasuirt 3 there are two pots that need to be adjusted to get the signal right. Using a Hall sensor (DIY carries them) is rather straight forward you only need to set a jumper in the controller and it works. The Hall sensor and steel wheel is way cheaper than the flying magnet as well.