Who wants to Megasquirt, full sequential fuel/ spark a 68 charger! This Guy!!

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Thought I'd share a progress pic to help motivate those who are still in progress. I powder coated my valve covers, the color doesnt quite match but then again the paint on the engine is old. I'm just mocking everything up and making sure the hood cleared (Barely) Looks cool huh?

Looks killer!   

[grnfsh]

A gage is nice so that you can see immediately what's going on when the motor is not running right. Its tough to catch looking over at your laptop while driving.

ok I see what you mean. I can see the benefit. Can you run both o2 sensors off one gauge?

[MechTech]

That would take a fancy switch or you could move the connector from one to the other. What I would suggest is using the one so you can see what its doing like when you push the pedal down and it stumbles you can look immediately and see that its lean but run the datalog and you can compare one side to the other there. If you are running both sides make sure they are both the same sensor Bosch LSU4.9 or LSU4.2

[JimG]

Hey guys, remember me from a couple of years ago, back when this thread only had a few pages? It took me a couple of hours to read through all the posts that had come along since I dropped off. Anyhow, I finally ripped my car apart a couple of weeks ago and am starting this project! Woot woot!

I think I found a good solution to the cheesy underhood relay panel. Bussmann makes these units, and I think they're used primarily by aftermarket OEMs such as fire truck and ambulance body manufacturers. They're offered in many configurations, with as many as 5 micro relays with space for fusing. The cover has a watertight seal. The terminals, which enter from the back, are Weatherpack, which are watertight as well.

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46345/Cooper-Bussmann-15303-5-2-4-Mini-Fuse-Panel-/

This is the one I'm using. It will have 5 relays, each power circuit fused separately. It's a little confusing at first, because you have to buy the module, the mounting bracket, a supply of Weatherpack terminals, a supply of Weatherpack seals... and so forth. You also need a crimping tool for the Weatherpack terminals, which is around $100. But, I already had a MSD ratcheting spark plug tool, so I bought a set of dies for it that are designed for Weatherpack connectors. The dies just came in today; I'll let you know how they work out. I bout a bunch of extra Weatherpack terminals so I could practice.

I'm attaching a photo of this thing under my hood... obviously not wired yet.

[grnfsh]

Congratulations on the recent progress,  I know it was huge for me to finally get the project really off the ground and running.

[JimG]

Well, I'm plugging along with my installation. Today I pulled both wiring harnesses through their respective holes in the firewall and began figuring out which wires (that I'm actually using) will follow the passenger side valve cover, which will follow the drivers side valve cover, and which will travel across the firewall. Then it dawned on me: I could make the wiring a lot neater if I pulled every wire back into the car and used the passenger side firewall hole for wires that will travel the passenger side valve cover, and the drivers side firewall hole for wires that will travel the drivers valve cover and across the firewall to the drivers side. Yes, it will be a little of a rat's nest behind the glove box, but better there than under the hood where everyone can see it.

Has anyone else done it this way? Can anyone think of a downside?

[MechTech]

Hi Jim G
I'm a Jim G also and also drive a 67 Coronet. I've attached a link to a video of my car at MIR from this past October. When I get to where I miss driving the car I pull up this video and get a kick out of it every time.      https://youtu.be/xeSTrIzJVuA

[JimG]

Very cool, MechTech! It's nice to see completed MS projects actually moving under their own power... it's what inspires me when I get bogged down or lazy with my project.

[grnfsh]

Well, I'm plugging along with my installation. Today I pulled both wiring harnesses through their respective holes in the firewall and began figuring out which wires (that I'm actually using) will follow the passenger side valve cover, which will follow the drivers side valve cover, and which will travel across the firewall. Then it dawned on me: I could make the wiring a lot neater if I pulled every wire back into the car and used the passenger side firewall hole for wires that will travel the passenger side valve cover, and the drivers side firewall hole for wires that will travel the drivers valve cover and across the firewall to the drivers side. Yes, it will be a little of a rat's nest behind the glove box, but better there than under the hood where everyone can see it.

Has anyone else done it this way? Can anyone think of a downside?

I more or less did the same thing you did only I just did one large hole. I cut the plastic sheeth off all together, it kept getting in the way.

[JimG]

OK, I have a couple of wiring/fusing questions:

For those of you using the truck coils, did you have just one 12 volt supply circuit/relay for all 8 coils? What ampere rating fuse did you use?

For those of you using the Ford Motorsport injectors, did you have just one 12 volt supply circuit/relay for all 8 injectors? What ampere rating fuse did you use?

My relay box has 5 slots for relays. Two for the circuits mentioned above, the fuel pump, and the combined start/run circuit to power the Megasquirt leaves one spare... and that will probably get used before I'm done.

Thanks!

[MechTech]

Hi Jim G
I am using 4 fuses 5amps each 2 for the truck coils and 2 for the injectors. The fuses are plugged into one fuse block which is powered by one 40amp relay.

[Black_Bee]

Hi Jim G
I am using 4 fuses 5amps each 2 for the truck coils and 2 for the injectors. The fuses are plugged into one fuse block which is powered by one 40amp relay.

I wired mine the same way.   

[MechTech]

Hi All
I have modified the diameter of the trigger wheel making it 1 inch larger in diameter to accommodate anyone who is using a steel vibration damper. None have been made at this point. If you are interested send me a PM. The original size wheel will still be available.

[JimG]

ok i'm trouble shooting here. I am running my composite logger and trying to read a good cam and crank signal. I seem to have a good crank signal but have sync errors. I also cannot find how to select cam signal. Here is a screen shot of my logger

I'm having the same problem as GrnFsh had with regard to the cam signal, as shown in his screen capture. Is this a software configuration problem, or did I miss a jumper? My notes tell me tat I installed JP7, although I have not ripped back into the ECU to look.

Thanks!

[MechTech]

Are you running the redmist Jeep cam position pickup? I looked back on this blog and at page 5 redmist attached a picture of his composite logger with an explanation. It seems to me something is wrong with your cam position sensor or setting. It should run high for one crank rev. and low for one crank rev.

[redmist]

It's been a while since I have played with the software, but I think under options, you have a way to show both sides of the window (High/Low) and yours is just showing the side it is using the sense. That is just fine! I think you have a tone of loss on your crank trigger though.

[JimG]

It's been a while since I have played with the software, but I think under options, you have a way to show both sides of the window (High/Low) and yours is just showing the side it is using the sense. That is just fine! I think you have a tone of loss on your crank trigger though.

Thanks guys!

Redmist, I re-posted GrnFsh's old screen capture because I was seeing the same thing and it was easier. I'm sure I'll be posting some of my own soon soon.

[grnfsh]

It's been a while since I have played with the software, but I think under options, you have a way to show both sides of the window (High/Low) and yours is just showing the side it is using the sense. That is just fine! I think you have a tone of loss on your crank trigger though.

Thanks guys!

Redmist, I re-posted GrnFsh's old screen capture because I was seeing the same thing and it was easier. I'm sure I'll be posting some of my own soon soon.

My issue I was having was my Cam sensor was 180 out. I flipped it just like you would a distributor, pull it out, rotate the bottom 180, put it back it. After I did that it fired right up.

[JimG]

It's been a while since I have played with the software, but I think under options, you have a way to show both sides of the window (High/Low) and yours is just showing the side it is using the sense. That is just fine! I think you have a tone of loss on your crank trigger though.

Thanks guys!

Redmist, I re-posted GrnFsh's old screen capture because I was seeing the same thing and it was easier. I'm sure I'll be posting some of my own soon soon.

My issue I was having was my Cam sensor was 180 out. I flipped it just like you would a distributor, pull it out, rotate the bottom 180, put it back it. After I did that it fired right up.

GrnFsh, I was referring to your post about 6 months back, when you were just getting a blip on the Composite Logger from the cam sensor. You quickly posted another screen shot that showed your cam signal staying on for one full crankshaft revolution. I think we might be talking about two separate issues you had going on. Anyhow, I'm where you were with the blip from the cam sensor. I'm looking for the solution that Redmist posted above, but so far I haven't stumbled into that setting.

Thanks!

[Black_Bee]

It's been a while since I have played with the software, but I think under options, you have a way to show both sides of the window (High/Low) and yours is just showing the side it is using the sense. That is just fine! I think you have a tone of loss on your crank trigger though.

Thanks guys!

Redmist, I re-posted GrnFsh's old screen capture because I was seeing the same thing and it was easier. I'm sure I'll be posting some of my own soon soon.

My issue I was having was my Cam sensor was 180 out. I flipped it just like you would a distributor, pull it out, rotate the bottom 180, put it back it. After I did that it fired right up.

GrnFsh, I was referring to your post about 6 months back, when you were just getting a blip on the Composite Logger from the cam sensor. You quickly posted another screen shot that showed your cam signal staying on for one full crankshaft revolution. I think we might be talking about two separate issues you had going on. Anyhow, I'm where you were with the blip from the cam sensor. I'm looking for the solution that Redmist posted above, but so far I haven't stumbled into that setting.

Thanks!

Do you have the registered version of TunerStudio, or the free one?  I think that option only shows up on the registered version.

Paul

[JimG]

Do you have the registered version of TunerStudio, or the free one?  I think that option only shows up on the registered version.

Paul

[/quote]

Still using the free version. Once I get the car running, I planned to upgrade to get the auto tune feature; maybe I need to do it now.

Thanks!

[YellowThumper]

I also am in about the same position as a few of you.
Have what appears to be a good crank signal but cam not correct. Changed to wasted spark COP to temporarily remove it from equation.
Currently looking into why I am not getting coils to spark off. Even thru the test proceedure.

Throwing this out just for you all to see there is more of us that constantly revert back to this thread for help.


Redmist, did you get that Procharger on and going yet?
Mike.

[JimG]

Currently looking into why I am not getting coils to spark off. Even thru the test proceedure.

Throwing this out just for you all to see there is more of us that constantly revert back to this thread for help.

Mike.

Are you using the 7-pin GM connector that bundles all the coil wires for a single side of the engine? If so, be sure pin H has 12 volts on it while you're trying the test, be sure pin A is grounded to the engine block, and be sure pin E is connected to the Low Reference/Sensor Ground (pin 7 on the MS3 connector, black with a white stripe if you used the conventional wire color code). If all this is good, I assume you could touch 5 volts (MS3 pin 26, gray) on coil pins B, C, F, and G to see if the coils fire. I say I assume because mine worked the first time I tried it,  but if it hadn't, I would have tried this.

This is fresh in my mind, as I just went through it a few days ago.

[JimG]

Is the Jeep cam sensor Open Collector Hall or just Hall? JP 7 should be in place for one, and not in place for the other. Plus, the two potentiometers are set differently depending on which you have.

I've tried it both ways, and I just get one blip from the cam sensor for every 70 crankshaft pulses no matter what I try. I also upgraded from the free software and I'm still trying to find a setting there that might fix it.

Thanks!

[Black_Bee]

Is the Jeep cam sensor Open Collector Hall or just Hall? JP 7 should be in place for one, and not in place for the other. Plus, the two potentiometers are set differently depending on which you have.

I've tried it both ways, and I just get one blip from the cam sensor for every 70 crankshaft pulses no matter what I try. I also upgraded from the free software and I'm still trying to find a setting there that might fix it.

Thanks!

I believe that its the checkbox "Render Including Non Interrupt Data" on the options button on the High Speed Loggers tab.