Who wants to Megasquirt, full sequential fuel/ spark a 68 charger! This Guy!!

[grnfsh]

great news grnfsh, so you didn't lose to much hair then?

LOL.. no it wasnt too bad at all, especially with guys like you to help me out. Its just slow going on my end. My ability to spend time on the project is far and few between.

Ill probably convert my fuel system next. Should be easy enough. I'm going to go with the Tanks Inc set up. I actually already bought the pump kit. While we're on the subject, is there any reason I can't run the Warlboro pump that comes with that kit with a carburetor as long as I have the regulator set correctly? Or would it be too much pressure?

[MechTech]

I'm not sure what to say about it mostly because I'm not familiar with it. I would think that if the pressure is set low enough and you have a return line from the regulator to the tank you should be fine.

[Aussiemadonmopars]

Just out of interest, how many people are putting a fuse on the outgoing supply of the alternator? I know I will be installing one. 

what size fuse?

I've got an 80 amp alternator so I'm going to put in a 60 amp fuse.

[grnfsh]

I'm not sure what to say about it mostly because I'm not familiar with it. I would think that if the pressure is set low enough and you have a return line from the regulator to the tank you should be fine.

I think I agree, Aeromotive makes a regulator that can go EFI or Carb, but its $135 and doesnt come with anything. That would allow me to convert JUST the fuel system itself and then build out the EFI.  Tank inc has a regulator that comes with a gauge and fittings and its $75 but it doesnt do carb. It might come down to a money saving decision to just wait and do the whole thing at once.

[redmist]

Congrats!!!!


Another one fires!!! Mwhahahaah!!!! *cough!* haha

[redmist]

Just noticed that this thread is almost three years old here in a couple months!!!!!     


I have a D1 Procharger going in my car right now.

[Aussiemadonmopars]

Just noticed that this thread is almost three years old here in a couple months!!!!!     


I have a D1 Procharger going in my car right now.

Wow Man, its really starting to get interesting now! Let us know how it works out. Any idea how much boost it will be running?

[grnfsh]

Just noticed that this thread is almost three years old here in a couple months!!!!!    


I have a D1 Procharger going in my car right now.

This thread has inspired a lot of Mopar guys to take the plunge and attempt the Megasquirt conversion. I would have never done it without this thread.

Can't wait to see your SC go in. That is going to be sweet!

[igozumn]

I know it's inspired me.  I've read this thread many, many times over and have picked up a couple pieces to the puzzle for my car along the way.  Haven't done much more than a lot of reading and research.  Got a 3-ring binder for a working file on my Charger.  I'm planning on spending some dough on it in this next year, and thought I'd better have the part numbers and ideas readily available.  With the recent availability of the Fitech system, I've been weighing options.  I "think" I'd rather stay the course with a Megasquirt sequential build, mirroring for the most part what Redmist has done.  I have a friend that is having a Fitech system put on his Nova as I type this.  Not sure why he's not getting his own hands dirty, but whatever.  Looking forward to seeing his results.

Redmist, I remember you saying you had plans for boost.  Good to hear you're sticking with the plan.    I have no intentions for the same, but love the idea.  Had a friend that used to work for Procharger waaay back when, and had a v6 S-10 Blazer he'd blown and mapped himself.  Incredible is all I can say.  He's now running a 2002-ish Trans Am, 6 speed, boosted and "tuned within an inch of it's life" per his words.

You mentioned you ended up sourcing a throttle cable from a Caprice.  Do you remember approximately what year?

I haven't fully decided, if I go sequential, whether to go with the Edelbrock XT, or the standard Victor 4 barrel efi manifold.  One of the things that I was concerned about was the A/C compressor.  With the XT, it's pretty much impossible to retain A/C in the stock location.  But I found options from either March (serpentine belt, baby yeah!!) or a more affordable option from Bouchillon, that both relocate a Sanden compressor to the passenger side lower.  Yay.

[74bluefish]

First of all I want to thank everyone for posting to this tread, especially Redmist.  I've been copying it for 2 years.  My problem is how do you keep power to the Megasquirt when cranking?  I have a 74 Barracuda. I have started the engine by hot wire but now am trying with the key.  Earlier posts say to hook the brown wire from the ballast to keep it hot.   But when I do that the car will crank with the key in the run position  

Did you guys add a separate switch anywhere?  or do you do it all with the key as I'm wanting to do.

Below are 2 pictures of my install, 2nd with my cold air box.

[igozumn]

Which A/C compressor brackets are you using? 

[74bluefish]

Bouchillon brackets, BUT the compressor will hit the intake.  I installed the outboard bolt and then rotated the compressor toward the head till i got about an 1/8 inch clearance to the head/valve cover. 

I have a 1/2 clearance to the throttle body but the throttle position sensor is 1/8 clearance.

I then had to modify the inboard end of the bracket to pick up the mounting hole on the water pump.   Hated to cut up beautiful Bouchillon brackets but it seems pretty strong and made it through my first 20 minute run.  I have not driven the car yet.

[Black_Bee]

First of all I want to thank everyone for posting to this tread, especially Redmist.  I've been copying it for 2 years.  My problem is how do you keep power to the Megasquirt when cranking?  I have a 74 Barracuda. I have started the engine by hot wire but now am trying with the key.  Earlier posts say to hook the brown wire from the ballast to keep it hot.   But when I do that the car will crank with the key in the run position  

Did you guys add a separate switch anywhere?  or do you do it all with the key as I'm wanting to do.

One of the ballast wires has power in the run position, and one of the wires has power in the crank position.  Together, they cover what you need, so combine them and run them to your ECU's relay.  Thats how I did mine, and it starts like a normal car with just the key.

it sounds like you have those wires (or at least one of them) going to the starter relay instead of the ECU relay.

[74bluefish]

Black Bee said   it sounds like you have those wires (or at least one of them) going to the starter relay instead of the ECU relay.

THANKS,   you called it exactly right.  Tried the brown wire to ECU and had to dig around and found the starter relay wire and it fired right up with the key.   

When I bought my car it had about 10 wires cut going nowhere and the ballast, electronic ignition, coil, distributor, were all missing.  So I have a real mess in wiring,  now that it works I can clean up some of the mess.

Thanks once again.

[redmist]

Intercooler fits!

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Intercooler fits!

Nice!!! Can't wait to see the results!  

[Mopar Nut]

 

[YellowThumper]

Well here's post #1 for this forum.
As many have said. Great thread here with lots of info.
Also appreciate it has not died open ended like many others.
Big   to redmist for continuing.
I have a build thread at another house and was told of this thread by some over there.
Challenger here and in build of a twin turbo 360, MS3X, ls coils. I expect all previous input will help guide me.
Jumped in with both feet knowing next to nothing and figured I'd find out eventually if I sink or swim.lol

Now for my help...
Yes you can set up a return style fuel system on your carb using a Walbro pump.  Aeromotive has a regulator that will run either high or low pressures with just a spring change. My ret system is with carb for now.

-edit-
redmist
Got to love the spare real estate these cars have. I have 2 up there.

Mike

[Troy]

Oops!

Troy

[grnfsh]

WOW thanks for the heads up. That's my next purchase too, I may do the same thing.

Just checked, $210 on summit, $245 on Tanks inc for the Cuda tank. WOW    ITs like getting the sending unit for free.

BOUGHT

Tank was out of stock, they must drop ship it. no biggie though, i'm not in a rush

Thanks again dude!!

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Gonna slightly hijack your thread because this is most relevant here...

I just ordered a Tanks Inc. tank on Summit for $95 less than directly from Tanks Inc. I also verified this same price for Challengers but nothing else. I don't know what the normal shipping charge is but it's $9.75 and there's an oversize fee of $9.75 as well through Summit (but they drop ship it from Tanks any way). And I had to pay tax since I'm in Ohio. The other Tanks products all seemed to be priced similarly to buying direct so I held off on the pump and sending unit. The Charger tank is on back order but the estimate said December 18th.

Troy

Sorry to burst your bubble Troy but that price is for the non efi tank. The product code for the efi tank is TCR9AT and the regular is TCR9A. On their website the standard TCR9A tank is $150.

Standard tank
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=395/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd395.htm

EFI tank
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=484/category_id=146/mode=prod/prd484.htm

[Troy]

Gonna slightly hijack your thread because this is most relevant here...

I just ordered a Tanks Inc. tank on Summit for $95 less than directly from Tanks Inc. I also verified this same price for Challengers but nothing else. I don't know what the normal shipping charge is but it's $9.75 and there's an oversize fee of $9.75 as well through Summit (but they drop ship it from Tanks any way). And I had to pay tax since I'm in Ohio. The other Tanks products all seemed to be priced similarly to buying direct so I held off on the pump and sending unit. The Charger tank is on back order but the estimate said December 18th.

Troy

Sorry to burst your bubble Troy but that price is for the non efi tank. The product code for the efi tank is TCR9AT and the regular is TCR9A. On their website the standard TCR9A tank is $150.

Standard tank
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=395/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd395.htm

EFI tank
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=484/category_id=146/mode=prod/prd484.htm

Well, shoot. I didn't realize they sold non-EFI tanks! I'll edit that back out...

Troy

[Troy]

The TCR9A-T doesn't come up when searching under 1968 Charger but it does come up using the part #. Price is $210.97.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-tcr9a-t

They caught my order and swapped out the parts.

Troy

[grnfsh]

you are still saving money over what Tanks Inc charges

[Troy]

Yep! Heck, the non-EFI tanks are cheaper than most other options (Spectre, etc.) too so if you just wanted to get rid of the rusty, dented, gummed up original I don't think it's a bad way to go.

Troy