News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Who wants to Megasquirt, full sequential fuel/ spark a 68 charger! This Guy!!

Started by redmist, February 24, 2013, 11:51:50 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

redmist

JUNKTRAVELER: all I've seen in this thread is a bunch of bullies and 3 guys that actually give a crap.

grnfsh

ok It still isnt firing.

I switched to semi sequential and wasted spark and still nothing. This is spark only so fuel is there.

Any suggestions?

My train of thought leads me to the coils themselves next in the troubleshooting process. I am assuming they are wired correctly, it didnt seem that difficult. I have all the logic wires going to their respective coil wires in the harness and. That gives me 3 remaining wires coming from each harness. Red, Brown, BlackRed 12v to a fuse (I checked and I have good 12v to the coil)
Black to ground
Brown to ground as well.


Black_Bee

Quote from: grnfsh on November 29, 2015, 04:11:49 PM
ok It still isnt firing.

I switched to semi sequential and wasted spark and still nothing. This is spark only so fuel is there.

Any suggestions?

My train of thought leads me to the coils themselves next in the troubleshooting process. I am assuming they are wired correctly, it didnt seem that difficult. I have all the logic wires going to their respective coils and a connector on the harness. That gives me 3 remaining wires coming from each harness. Red, Brown, Black
Red 12v to a fuse (I checked and I have good 12v to the coil)
Black to ground
Brown to ground as well.

Is it trying to fire at all?  What is your timing at when checked with a timing light while cranking?

:cheers:


grnfsh

No no fire at all. I haven't been able to visibly check for spark or check timing with a light. I need a friend or wife to crank the engine while I do it. Hopefully I can recruit some help tomorrow.

Black_Bee

Quote from: grnfsh on November 29, 2015, 05:02:58 PM
No no fire at all. I haven't been able to visibly check for spark or check timing with a light. I need a friend or wife to crank the engine while I do it. Hopefully I can recruit some help tomorrow.

Get yourself a remote starter switch... they are cheap and then you can do everything you need to under the hood by yourself.

:cheers:

MechTech


grnfsh

yeah I have a trigger somewhere. We moved last year and still have a ton of stuff in boxes. Ill need to dig it up.  As for power, Mechtech I did what you had suggested and ran power directly from the battery and put it on a switch. Ill leave it like that at least until I get everything going.

Black_Bee

Have you tried the coil test mode?  You can audibly hear them click when firing.

:cheers:

grnfsh

Quote from: Black_Bee on November 30, 2015, 05:00:28 PM
Have you tried the coil test mode?  You can audibly hear them click when firing.

:cheers:

NO!!  how do I do that?

Black_Bee

Quote from: grnfsh on November 30, 2015, 08:36:23 PM
NO!!  how do I do that?

With key in run mode, in Tuner Studio:

CAN-bus/Testmodes -> Output Test Mode -Inj Spk.

Click Enable Test Mode.

Output interval(ms) = 60
Coil Testing Mode = One
Coil Output to Test = CoilA
Dwell(ms) = 3.5

Click the Start Button in the Coil Testing section.

This tells it to fire CoilA. Go and listen to Coil #1 firing.  Then change "Coil Output to Test" to each coil.  You can even hook a timing light up to the plug wire and verify with 100% certainty that the coil firing is the one that should be firing (or that any coils are even firing at all), but those coils are loud and make it pretty obvious.

:2thumbs:


grnfsh

awesome, going to give this a go as soon as I get home today.

Thanks, I thought there was a feature like this but couldn't remember.

peterro

Yeah, that was really useful for me when I was wiring up the engine. I was able to test both the coils and injectors to make sure nothing is swapped and all are working.

grnfsh

ok coil test ran fine. All coils clicking, That's good news.

But what would be my next step? I suppose I need to make sure my cam wheel and crank wheel are clocked correctly?

The Crank wheel should be set on the compression stroke?

Should the cam sensor be set on compression as well?

Black_Bee

Quote from: grnfsh on December 01, 2015, 04:20:20 PM
ok coil test ran fine. All coils clicking, That's good news.

But what would be my next step? I suppose I need to make sure my cam wheel and crank wheel are clocked correctly?

The Crank wheel should be set on the compression stroke?

Should be cam sensor be set on compression as well?

Attach a screen shot of your "Ignition Settings" page... or your MSQ file.

For the cam sensor, the Jeep CPS is a "half moon" sensor, and at TDC#1 you can have the moon either on or off of the sensor.  If its off the sensor at TDC intake and on it on TDC exhaust then on the Ignition Settings, set "Level for Phase 1" to "High". This is how I have my cam sensor set.  Your cam sensor (if new) should have come with a little "tool" that is used to help you to orient the sensor like this.

For your crank sensor...  your sensor needs to line up with the missing tooth a certain number of degrees before TDC... typically in the neighborhood of 4 teeth (40*).  This is set in the Ignition settings for "Tooth #1 Angle (deb BTDC)"

:cheers:

peterro

Did you check that your injectors are firing and do you have fuel pressure while firing? I'd make sure the fuel pump is OFF when checking injectors (similar to testing coils) so you don't flood the cylinders.

I think you're nearly to having it run. Next step, tuning. I have a new wide-band O2 sensor in a box on my bench waiting to be installed for that. Even though it runs pretty bad, it's never run so smooth or been so responsive.

grnfsh

Quote from: peterro on December 01, 2015, 05:00:11 PM
Did you check that your injectors are firing and do you have fuel pressure while firing? I'd make sure the fuel pump is OFF when checking injectors (similar to testing coils) so you don't flood the cylinders.

I think you're nearly to having it run. Next step, tuning. I have a new wide-band O2 sensor in a box on my bench waiting to be installed for that. Even though it runs pretty bad, it's never run so smooth or been so responsive.

Spark only, I still have the carburetor on it

grnfsh

Also, I'd like to verify my coil to cyl numbers, this is correct ... right?

1 A
8 B
4 C
3 D
6 E
5 F
7 G
2 H

MechTech

One way to verify if you are firing on the right stroke is pull all of the plugs but cylinder 1. Put your timing light on cylinder 1 and crank the motor the timing light should flash just after you hear the compression of cylinder 1

grnfsh

Here is my crank Trigger sitting pretty much at TDC. The top mark on the indicator is 0.  I am using 37 degrees BTDC. Does this look about right?

Black_Bee


Aussiemadonmopars

Just out of interest, how many people are putting a fuse on the outgoing supply of the alternator? I know I will be installing one.  :Twocents:

grnfsh

Quote from: Aussiemadonmopars on December 02, 2015, 09:27:42 PM
Just out of interest, how many people are putting a fuse on the outgoing supply of the alternator? I know I will be installing one.  :Twocents:

what size fuse?

Black_Bee

Quote from: Aussiemadonmopars on December 02, 2015, 09:27:42 PM
Just out of interest, how many people are putting a fuse on the outgoing supply of the alternator? I know I will be installing one.  :Twocents:

I'm sure that I should, but I don't have a fuse on the alternator output.

:cheers:

grnfsh

IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:woohoo: :woohoo:

I rotated the cam sensor 180 and sprayed a little starting fluid in her (its cold and hasnt run in a while) and she fired right up. Ran nicely. I didnt have the computer hooked up so I just pretty much shut it down after 10 seconds or so.

Man that felt great!

Thanks everyone who helped me out.  Now to add the fuel part to the equation.

MechTech