Who wants to Megasquirt, full sequential fuel/ spark a 68 charger! This Guy!!

[grnfsh]

that sensor bracket and wheel look awesome

[GPULLER]

hi pettero
Is this bracket meant to mount using the valve cover hold down screws? and what is the overall width? Ive attached pictures of my most recent crank sensor bracket and trigger wheel mounted on the motor.

Nice crank sensor bracket.  Does it need to be adjustable, in/out or up/down?  What is the other sensor mounted above the damper?

What are you guys running for cams and how much vacuum are they pulling?  I have an old MP 484 cam with low vac, is a cam swap gonna be in the mix to get EFI to work?  I know the Fast stuff wants more than 10".

[MechTech]

Thanks grnfsh and GPULLER
  This revision needs to be adjusted, the next rev. will not need adjustment except for the spacers if the spacers are the right height it should need no adjustment the next rev will also shield the sensor. As you can see now it is unprotected.
  GPULLER The sensor you were asking about is for water temp its attached to my Meziere water pump housing.
As far as the cam goes you should have no problem with that cam. I don't know what my vacuum is but I am running a Racer Brown .520 lift cam

[GPULLER]

Thanks MechTech for the info.  Sorry if I missed it but is your car up and running?

[MechTech]

Hi GPULLER
Yes my car is running full sequential (thanks to redmist)

[peterro]

Sorry for the delayed response. The notifications for this thread end up in my spam folder.

That crank bracket looks really good. We've got some creative/capable people here. Good job.

The bracket is about 3.5" tall? (the short way). The coils will stick out some from the open end.  It's not intended to use the cover bolts. I've got some aluminum threaded standoffs (3/4") that I'll mount to the bracket on it's mounting holes. Then it will be placed in the "best" spot on the surface of the cover and I'll have someone tig weld the standoffs to the cover. Then I can unbolt the bracket whenever needed. I'm still waiting to hear back from my friend about making the parts.

Now, on to the cam sensor adapter. I got one from SD Concepts but it didn't fit quite right. The hole was fine, it was side where the hold down is. My block has a ridge near the dist. hole that interferes with the adapter and doesn't allow it to seat. I emailed SD a couple times about it but never received a response so I took matters into my own hands.

As you can see in the picture, my die grinder got some good use. Also, the bolt sleeve was about 30 thousandths too long as well as needing to be adjusted on one side. Now it fits and the adapter seats properly.

[peterro]

I just received my redesigned brackets today and I couldn't be any happier with the way they turned out. The coils fit perfectly and the stock GM wiring harness works great even with the plastic pop-in harness holders. I had to tap the coil mounting holes. The threaded stand-offs are aluminum 3/4" and provide the right amount of space for the wiring. Now they need to be welded onto the valve covers.

Here's a few thousand words:

[grnfsh]

awesome!  how do I get my hands on a pair?

[GPULLER]

Those brackets are nice.  Has anybody played around with different coil locations other than the V/C?  Not sure where but something little less GM? 

[grnfsh]

I saw someone mount them under the intake manifold on a big block. Not sure how the heat would affect them there though.

[peterro]

I thought about a couple other places but nothing was so convenient. I got pricing to make some more and I was thinking about $45/pr. I'd need a few more interested parties to make it worth while though. They would be mild steel instead of stainless. Mine were the prototypes that were made with whatever was on the machine at the time. I would have preferred aluminum as stainless is pretty hard on the tap for threading the coil mounting holes.

[tan top]

    awesome stuff   

[GPULLER]

I think Indy puts the coils under the manifold on the gen3 Hemi's.  I would think that room would would be tight under the intake, unless the a person used the Edelbrock Pro-Flo.

[grnfsh]

I just received my redesigned brackets today and I couldn't be any happier with the way they turned out. The coils fit perfectly and the stock GM wiring harness works great even with the plastic pop-in harness holders. I had to tap the coil mounting holes. The threaded stand-offs are aluminum 3/4" and provide the right amount of space for the wiring. Now they need to be welded onto the valve covers.

Here's a few thousand words:

Peterro

What is the OD on those standoffs?

[67Charger440]

I thought about a couple other places but nothing was so convenient. I got pricing to make some more and I was thinking about $45/pr. I'd need a few more interested parties to make it worth while though. They would be mild steel instead of stainless. Mine were the prototypes that were made with whatever was on the machine at the time. I would have preferred aluminum as stainless is pretty hard on the tap for threading the coil mounting holes.

I'll need a set. 

My '67 is/was running Megasquirt 2 for the fuel only until I get a complete handle on it before I add the new unknown of ignition control.  Now that Silver State is over and the run was successful from an engine management point of view, ignition is up next.  I have the same coils and CPS bushing setup you are using, just need to mount them up.  What are you using for plug wires?

[peterro]

Ok, if grnfish is in, I just need one more who is interested and I'll order.

The OD of the standoffs is .315". The holes in the bracket at those locations were designed for #10 screws and the standoffs were just what the HW store had. Nothing special.

[peterro]

I need some insight into the cam position sensor wiring. Signal to the ms3x,  power, and sensor ground, yes? I'm currently using the relay board power and sensor ground which has 5v and 12v. I've tried testing with 5v and I don't get any signal in the tooth logger. The diagram I found for the jeep wiring is 8v for the sensor. Any thoughts of a wiring or settings issue? I mainly want to test everything on the bench before installing in the car.

BTW 67Charger440, I haven't got to plug wires yet. I imagine something similar to the GM truck since the wires will be short.

[MechTech]

Hi peterro
It looks like redmist helped out with that on page 14 of this post.
any of you guys going to Chrysler Carlisle in July?

[peterro]

Awesome, thanks. That means I think I was doing it right. I checked the voltage on the signal wire with 5v and gnd connected while turning the sensor and I get zero change. I guess it's possible that the CPS was the reason the jeep was in the wrecking yard. I think it may be time for a new sensor.

Thanks again.

[grnfsh]

Hi peterro
It looks like redmist helped out with that on page 14 of this post.
any of you guys going to Chrysler Carlisle in July?

Ill definitely be at Carlisle, how many days i don't know

[grnfsh]

Awesome, thanks. That means I think I was doing it right. I checked the voltage on the signal wire with 5v and gnd connected while turning the sensor and I get zero change. I guess it's possible that the CPS was the reason the jeep was in the wrecking yard. I think it may be time for a new sensor.

Thanks again.

This is why I opted to spend a little more cash and just buy sensors new

[MechTech]

Hi peterro
I don't know if you have found this Composite Logger it can be found in Tuner Studio under the Diagnostics & High Speed Loggers tab. What it allows you to see is the cam and crank sensor signals and you will be able to see if they are in sync as well. The green is the cam signal the blue is the crank and the red is synced. You can record your engine running and go back and look at it or you can watch it while it is running (if you are watching it while it is running it takes some time before the signals show up on the screen). You can also look at these signals in MegaLog Viewer using a .csv file.

[peterro]

Thanks. I don't have anything in the car yet so it's bench testing for now. I was measuring voltage on the CPS signal wire and I'm seeing change when it turns but it's very small. On the MS forum, it was recommended that I have a 1k pull-up resistor between the 5v and signal to make it work. Did you do that?

[redmist]

I don't have a resistor in my car.

[peterro]

Interesting. I put one in and now it works beautiful. I wonder if there was a difference in how I assembled the computer that may have made a difference. I know there are lots of options and I was still learning when I built it. In any case, I can claim victory on that. Now some crank trigger fab and start installing into the car. Woo Hoo.

Carlisle is a bit far from Oregon so I won't be there. At this point I'd like to get back on the road for our local all Mopar show/drags in Woodburn OR in July.