Alt upgrade

[chargd72]

What is the highest amp alternator that I can safely upgrade to without modifying stock wiring?  My old 65 amp just isn't cutting it anymore. 

[Cooter]

Of course, it isn't very popular here to offer a 160 AMP GM one wire, but I have had pretty good luck with that one.
However, it IS somehow very popular to offer a Japanese (Denso) unit from Mancini/440 Source.


Stock Chrysler highestamp I can think would be either rebuilt "power masters" unit, or the stock Police/Ambulance unit which will require total fab work as it is HUGE. I think it's only like 80 AMPs.

[chargd72]

Of course, it isn't very popular here to offer a 160 AMP GM one wire, but I have had pretty good luck with that one.

Hmmm.  Not against that.  What mods are needed?  Whats the part number on that guy?

[Nacho-RT74]

no mods to fit a stock chrysler 80 amps, just run couple of extra wires and done.

ANY alt output upgrade will require the same. GM units will require more wiring mods though

[chargd72]

Where can I find an 80 amp mopar alt?

[chargd72]

I can't find anything between 65 - 100 amps...

[Nacho-RT74]

Beck Arnley PN 186-6002

they are actually 78 amps. A little bit wider than original earliers 70s so will require longer belts to sway the back of housing from meeting block


http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0112_electronic_voltage_regulator_and_alternator/viewall.html

[Cooter]

Look for a part number at your local auto parts store for the GM 1 wire that ends in something like "SE" for Self Energizing...

Any GOOD counter guy should be able to find it.

Only "mods" I've had to do is rework the factory alt. bracketry and it basically bolts on. Hook up the ONE big RED lead to it, tie the wires together at your voltage reg. and BOOM! done. PLUS, you can buy it anywhere, unlike the Chryser "Special Order" units mentioned.

[b5blue]

Of course, it isn't very popular here to offer a 160 AMP GM one wire, but I have had pretty good luck with that one.
However, it IS somehow very popular to offer a Japanese (Denso) unit from Mancini/440 Source.


Stock Chrysler highestamp I can think would be either rebuilt "power masters" unit, or the stock Police/Ambulance unit which will require total fab work as it is HUGE. I think it's only like 80 AMPs.

You can have this one Cooter, just explain properly how your GM alt back feeds the entire electrical system through the battery by supplying voltage/amps using a wire that was meant to just recharge the battery. Go into detail about what size wire he needs to run to the battery from the alt. as it's about an 8 foot run routed safely and what/how to fuse protect it. Post pictures of how you aligned the pulley and did your mods for the install if your recommending to do it.    As far as your slap at Denso being a Jap. part how is it that the part # crosses to Mopar applications on that unit? I had owned 14 GM's before giving up completely on them. From brand spanking new off the dealers lot to well used every one was crap in the long run and a pain in the butt to keep fixed and running!     None of the old school alts solve low idle amps including your GM. Your GM just filters it by running the whole car 100% off the battery.

[Nacho-RT74]

need to note the 78/80 Mopar alt is still not COMPLETELLY efficient, but still WAY BETTER option than stock 50-65 units and on a plug and play job

HOWEVER I still can say running AC, slow speed blower ( live in tropic ) and nights ( lights on ) I just had a SMALL ammount of discharge reading ( maybe 2-5 amps ), allmost unnoticeable, iddling at 700, where the stock alt got maybe a 10-15 amps discharge reading. Only problems were when wipers on under the rain which sucks lot of power.

I can say the lates Mopar 78/80 amps alt, meaning NO MODS more than run couple of EXTRA wires ( but still no mods on what A MODIFICATION  really means )  is the simplest and best way

AC Delco alts by design ( delta windings ) are more efficient on lower speeds though, nobody can say opposite, but I hate the AC Delco pieces inside my engine bay.

[Nacho-RT74]

Here is the test chart of the Beck Arnley PN 186-6002 I got sometime ago

rpms on chart are on alt... pulley coming with alt ( the smaller of all available ) is around 2 times smaller.

[b5blue]

  I have 2 friends in the business, selling batteries AND remanufacturing Alts in house. One problem we discussed was the actual converting engine RPM to Alt. RPM, getting the ratio worked out for belt speed to Alt. speed to test idle performance. Between Lynn, Steve and myself we batted around options and ideas for about a year. The constant drain-recharge was killing my battery life and at one point Lynn just came out of his shop with his best battery and installed it. He refused payment as the great friend he is telling me "we just have to find the proper fix for old blue!" 2 things you must have in Florida are wipers and defrosters that can run wide open with the headlights on as law requires headlights on with wipers and in short order the windshield will start to fog. The Denso works plain and simple, many do not think about the fact that when the battery must hold up amps output their ignition looses performance so the whole cycle reenforces it's own problem.   

[chargd72]

Hey Nacho,
That part number seems to no longer exist.  Are there any replacements?

[chargd72]

http://filterspro.com/detail.cfm?part=1943332

[lasvegas69charg]

I have the powermaster alt and it cured my dimming lights at idle. Its the 75 amp alt but they also have larger ones.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Powermaster/Powermaster-Chrysler-Alternators/2139662/10002/-1

[Nacho-RT74]

Hey Nacho,
That part number seems to no longer exist.  Are there any replacements?

which PN were you searching for ?

PN is 186-6002

[Nacho-RT74]

http://filterspro.com/detail.cfm?part=1943332

thats the one
I paid I think $40 or 45 at Clearly Auto around 2 or 3 years ago... without core sent

however pic is just reference... the one you should get is with stator hidden down the housing

just like the one on the right on this pic ( smaller pulley included )



is A TAD wider, so will require maybe 1" longer belts to save the back of alt from meet with block. ( its posted on the mopar mag article )

[Nacho-RT74]

NOTE I'M REFERING THIS PN BECAUSE IS THE ONE I FOUND ABLE TO SOURCE GOOD OUTPUT POWER, but if you find better, or another alt PN with same specs, go ahead!

Locally at an OLD PARTS DEALER, I found Chrysler remanufactured alts what SUPPOSSELLY SOURCES 100 AMPS looking the same than the one on the right ( but big pulley like the one on the left but double )... and is the one running on my car at this moment. I replaced the pulley of course

[chargd72]

Hey Nacho,
That part number seems to no longer exist.  Are there any replacements?

which PN were you searching for ?

PN is 186-6002

Yes, this one.

So are you saying that any alternator with the stator on the back like the one on the left of my picture and a smaller pulley should have the 78+ amp rating?  Because I am finding a lot that look the same as this but discription gives it a 60-65 amp rating.

[chargd72]

Ok, just got a call back from the Wilson tech guy.  He said that the alt is rated at 60 amps but at max RPM it put out 71 amps.  So there is some difference between them.

[Nacho-RT74]

definitelly better than the stock, but not like the Beck Arnley I used or the one of the Mopar Mag article. You can read at max output the BA unit puts out 81 amps

what happened with Beck Arnley Alternators production ?

There was another Alternator remanufacturing company called BBB what it was selling 78 amps on those days I got the BA unit

On a note appart, I used a 65 amps rated alt I found locally for sometime and difference was noticeable from the stock unit, but still not enough for a driver AC car.

[Nacho-RT74]

By specs the DB alt looks to be a good solution... but is not on the cheap

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CHROME-MOPAR-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-CHRYSLER-ALTERNATOR-/130704986870?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6e9fd2f6&vxp=mtr

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-5459-new-chrome-mopar-dodge-plymouth-chrysler-alternator-65-83-7509.aspx

I'd like this but natural finish, not chromed

[chargd72]

My car is no A/C so maybe it will do.  There are a lot of 114 amp alts out there.  Think it's overkill?

By specs the DB alt looks to be a good solution... but is not on the cheap

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CHROME-MOPAR-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-CHRYSLER-ALTERNATOR-/130704986870?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6e9fd2f6&vxp=mtr

Pricey, but chrome 

[Nacho-RT74]

I was thinking in fact if SOMEDAY get this, switch all the internals to a stock natural housing ( what I have plenty )

[Nacho-RT74]

FINALLY!!! found a source I had found long time ago:

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=23

if the 55 amps at iddle spec is FOR REAL, this would be the dreamed alt. Now... what is what they set as the iddle speed ?

[chargd72]

Weird.  As much as I looked and looked for a 78 amp alt on the advance auto site (and many others) I couldn't find one.  I checked again today and bam, one popped up.  Check out the specs.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_remanufactured-alternator-driveworks_5030013-p?searchTerm=alternator#fragment-2

Hope that's an accurate rating.

[Cooter]

For what it's worth, I got one of these on the Dart with the battery in the trunk. I ran Cables off a tractor trailer. BIG SH*T. With BOTH electric fans on, Lights, and no heater, I "Only" have around 13 Volts at the battery. Maybe you have better luck with it.

Looking into a Gm style with 160 AMPs. right now for an upgrade.

[chargd72]

Thanks cooter, I won't be running any big draw items. Only an aftermarket stereo. I'll give it a shot but if I don't see anything better than what's currently on there, than I might look into your solution. I just don't want my Chevy buddy to spot any GM parts on my car.

[chargd72]

Hey Nacho,
I put in the 78 amp alt and did your parallel wiring system.  I used 10g red and black.  Which size fusible link would you suggest?

[Nacho-RT74]

if you still have the original, 16g is more than enough... two 16s makes one 14 or 12 ( can't recall )

if you will be living with just the "parallel" wiring ( which in that case won't be a parallel anymore LOL ), 14 is good. Is what factory made using the wiring on big alts. These never got the wiring on bulkhead, just the ones you are running. I call it parallel just because we don't need to remove the existant ones if they are still in good conditions.

You'll notice will never have to worry anymore about a big flickering on ammeter ( still can get some, but pretty much normal ), so the fuse links won't be anymore getting high loads. But need to keep safety about so MUST blown when a short happens.  A big fuse link, will take LONG TIME to blown, thats time getting damages everywhere before fuse link blows.

[chargd72]

16g it is.  Thanks