Quarter Glass Install and Adjust Thread

[Dino]

I went out and got the number quick before heading off to work. The number is : rr 4001-a 68-70 mopar b body 2 Dr hardtop , no post.

I was finally able to dig those up and that's exactly the kit I have.  Seeing there is such a difference between these and stock seals I wonder if it's best do the whole manual to power swap and tweak the windows before I install the new seals or after...

[Charger-Bodie]

My thoughts are that if your original seals are nice, you should reuse them.

As for the new ones being different, its possible that Chrysler changed these along the way and metro copied the later style. Just a theory.

As far as the window already been adjusted when I put these in. No. And just like yours .mine has new rollers and  was totally apart. I even have new AMD doors to possibly make it more difficult. Truth is that they adjusted very easy,but I've done dozens of them.

I hope you get yours dialed in.

[Charger-Bodie]

I just went and looked at an old set that I have here. They were the same as your originals. The new ones work fine as well though, so if you choose to use the new ones they will work fine when you get it adjusted correctly.

[HeavyFuel]

Thanks for checking on that.

I took a break from the windows and worked on the headlight vacuum lines last night.

However:
Earlier it was mentioned that to do the final adjustments on the glass, the outside and inside fuzzys need to be in place.  So, just thinking out loud, should the sequence be?:

1. glass and all window parts inside, door and qtr
2. exterior fuzzy, door and qtr
3. adjust glass, door and qtr
4. plastic barrier, door and qtr
5. interior door SS trim piece (between pad and panel), door and qtr
6. upper pad w/fuzzy, qtr (installation limits the adjustments that can be made to glass)
7. upper pad, door (installation limits the adjustments that can be made to glass)
8. interior fuzzy, door
9. glass final adjust
10. panels, door and qtr
11. window cranks, door and qtr

I'm a little unsure how to do the final adjusting on the glass with all the upper pads/fuzzys in place, unless the pads are taken on and off between adjustments.  That doesn't sound too fun.

  Maybe the final adjustments needed after the pads /fuzzys are installed can be done at the adjusting points that are still accessable?

Hopefully at some point I'll get this thread back on track with some useful tech that others can learn from.

[Charger-Bodie]

It may be necessary to intall the pad and need to remove to get them set just right. The window ideally won't need the pad to help with fit ,but some of them only have so much adjustment.

[AKcharger]

Hoorey for Burnt Orange!!!

[Charger-Bodie]

Hoorey for Burnt Orange!!!

??

[AKcharger]

Original pictures showed B/O interior...at least it looked like it to me 

[HeavyFuel]

Original pictures showed B/O interior...at least it looked like it to me  

Nope....sorry.   That is primer you see.   The interior is Black.

[chargervic]

This is an excellent thread and gets things going in the right direction. I had gotten one side quarter glass to work quite well, but the second one had the same problems as others had here, not going far enough forward and/or hitting the top too soon. I had a phone conversation with another member on this site, RR70 and his suggestion worked extremely well, so I thought I'd post it along here as it seems to be a problem for quite a few.
Using this method, I got the glass very close within a couple of minutes. The final tuning will be easy after I get the new roof rail weatherstrips installed.
Just loosen ALL the adjustments and stops so that they can move with a bit of pressure on them. Next bring the glass from the lowered position up to the raised position, helping it along by pulling the glass with your hand towards where it SHOULD go. This works with both manual and power regulators. It may take a couple of tries to get it where it needs to be, but let the tracks move in their adjustment slots as the glass moves into place. When it sits correctly, just tighten the adjuster bolts and the upper two stops( front and back) against the frame tabs where the glass sits. THEN use the vertical tilt adjustments to get the glass to align with the back of the door glass and sit in the center of the the fuzzies. It seems that the forward and upward travel adjustments cause the most problems. The factory manual tilt adjustment instructions work quite well afterwards.
Thanks very much to RR70 for the help.
chargervic

[Steve P.]

I may have missed it,but wouldn't it work out well it you were to drill some holes through the 1/4 sheet metal inside through the window assembly (BEFORE) removing it from the car? This would give you the best reference points to go back to, yes??  I know many do this with hoods and door hinges. Why not window regulators?? 

[chargervic]

From previous experience and comments from others, it seems that previous adjustments are not always relevant. I had all the marks in the paint from the prior set up and they did not help. I matched the positions that worked on the other side and that didn't get me where I wanted to be either. However, the "pulling on the glass" method worked within a couple of minutes after trying other methods for a few hours, so that is why I posted this. It worked very well and I was just hoping to help others with this ugly problem. I think that, once all the pieces are removed completely, they go back together with minor differences in the clearances for bolts, etc. and nothing is exactly the same as when the last installation happened. Therefore, it's pretty much starting from scratch each time. There is a lot more geometry and moving parts in here than a hood hinge.
Thanks for the comment, though.

[Hard Charger]

taking a chance someone will respond here.

I spent the day adjusting windows and hating it.

I read that the drip rail weather-stripping is a culprit of a lot of misalignment from the front window to the quarter glass. I am having a similar problem. the top back of the door glass is getting pushed out of alignment with the top of the quarter glass. if I drop the door glass 1/8"-1/4" the alignment is very good, just enough to not rub on the rubber.

I have a 68, what is the correct weather-stripping to buy for this car. I believe I need to change mine out.

I bought it years ago and cannot remember what brand it was.

[chargervic]

When I started my last Charger project it had fairly new Metro roof rail weatherstrips. They were not the easiest to put in place not did they fit well at the back end of the channel. I replaced them with O E R brand, purchased from Classic Industries and the difference was very noticeable. They almost fell into place in the channel and fit well at the front angle near the vent window, again at the mid-point and the back end fit just like it should. I would highly recommend this brand. They made the window alignment job very smooth.

[UH60L]

I know this is an old thread, but hoping someone can tell me, what size, thread, and length of bolts hold the quarter glass to the regulator assembly?

I am finally getting around to putting the side glass in.  I was almost ready to last summer, then blew the engine in my truck and spent all my time and money on that.

I seem to have lost/misplaced the bolts that hold the glass in I have a "hardware kit" that has the grommets and rubber spacers and new roller parts as needed, but no bolts.

Any help would be appreciated.

Clint

[chargervic]

I just went through my parts bin of window stuff and found some bolts (actually screws) that go in the plastic inserts in the glass. It's been several years since I worked on this part of the car, so my memory isn't that great on the subject. These screws have a coarse self tapping thread to cut into the plastic parts. The heads are Phillips with a large 9/16" flanged head. There are two lengths, 1 5/8" and 1 ⅛". The diameter is about ¼".
I don't know how to make a pic file small enough to work on this site, but if you PM me with your email address, I'll send pics of what I have.

[UH60L]

I just went through my parts bin of window stuff and found some bolts (actually screws) that go in the plastic inserts in the glass. It's been several years since I worked on this part of the car, so my memory isn't that great on the subject. These screws have a coarse self tapping thread to cut into the plastic parts. The heads are Phillips with a large 9/16" flanged head. There are two lengths, 1 5/8" and 1 ⅛". The diameter is about ¼".
I don't know how to make a pic file small enough to work on this site, but if you PM me with your email address, I'll send pics of what I have.

I think you're thinking of the door glass.  I'm talking about the back side windows (back seat).  The glass sits on top of the regulator assembly and gets bolted to it.  It has threads in the metal regulator that the bolts go into.  No plastic involved that I know of.   

I have the paper grommets and rubber inserts (came in the kit I bought), but I don't know the size/thread/length of the bolts because the body shop took the windows out back in 2008 and threw everything into three carboard boxes. 

[vita]

All I gotta say...

I owe yall a beer.  This is going to help me in the next few weeks for sure!