Quarter Glass Install and Adjust Thread

[HeavyFuel]

I know lots of us have trouble with the quarter glass install and adjustment, including me.  Maybe this can be the start of a thread that helps out with some of the issues.

1)  This is what my hardware looked like just before I re-installed it.  I think that it's in the right configuration.  It's all cleaned up, fresh lube, and new putty to hold the rollers in place during install.

2-3)  The stuff went in right back were it was, as shown in these before and after pics.

[HeavyFuel]

1)  I installed the side glass, adjusted the vent frame gap.  The side glass laid against the top weather-strip pretty decent on the first try.....I'll have to tweak it a little bit yet.

2)  Then it came to the quarter glass.  I fabbed some new spacers for the glass holes out of vacuum line......looks like the factory used the same thing, notice the ribs?  I took care to get mine in right, and not pinched like the assy line work.

3)  I cranked the glass up and down slowly, checking for binding.....feels pretty smooth.  I took it all the way down against the rubber stop block on the floor.

4)  Huh?    I don't remember the glass sticking out of the top like this before.   Something might be wrong.

[HeavyFuel]

1)  Alright......so I crank it up to check the top.  The glass grazes along the top weather-strip the way it's supposed to, and I take it just to the stainless weather-strip channel.

2)  WTF........How can I have a gap this big between the quarter and side glass.  OK something is definitely wrong.  

3-4) The top stops are totally out of play right now......the frame doesn't even get close to either one, yet they are adjusted all the way DOWN, and the glass is all the way UP.

[HeavyFuel]

OK,  here's where it'd be great  to get  advice from the field.  Anybody come across this before?  I'm completely baffled.

[b5blue]

No advise as this task is ahead for me but thank you for posting details. 

[Patronus]

It's been awhile so bear with me. I'm sure that much room is within the adjustments. Loosen and slide the whole assembly fwd. Also IIRC I had to loosen and pull the glass fwd in its mounts and retighten while pulling fwd. Also, I noticed the screw for the rearward most stop is a bit too long and the threads stick out the back holding the glass from coming all the way up. Like adjusting body panels, same with glass, a little bit goes a long ways. It may take hundreds of times. In the end, you'll be an expert, trust me..

[bill440rt]

This can be a headache at times.
You can't really adjust the glass on the mount. Once the bolts go thru with the rubber hose inserts there's really no room for adjustment with the glass itself (pretty sure the inserts were made out of the same radiator overflow hose tubing).
Try loosening up the whole regulator as Patronus suggested, & see if you can move it forward. Leave ALL the stops loose when adjusting the glass. Once the glass is in the upward position, then tighten the stops against it. Same with the glass down.
Keep us posted on these adjustments, please. 

[Patronus]

I actually cut the rubber tubing into a "c" shape allowing the glass to move fwd more. After which I was able to adjust the assembly fwd enough.

[Finn]

Agreed, the rear needs to go forward. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to these stupid things. I fought with mine for months before it finally was "good enough". 

I was about ready to bust windows out and put in a net.

[Dino]

All of a sudden I still don't feel like tackling the windows.   

[68Charger4me]

I had the same problem with mine, if you look at your second picture from the top there is an adjustment nut at the two oclock position from the rear armrest mounting hole.  I had to slide it to the top of its arc to move the window up and forward.  It was a major PITA!

[Dmichels]

The glass needs  to go down The glass moves forward as it goes up. You can see it is too high in picture when it is all the way down.

[69 OUR/TEA]

My car is power windows,so is quite a bit different then your setup.
Your problem where the window doesn't go up all the way and is away from the door window,check that stop that is above the crank and to the right,you might have it in upside down,hard to tell by your before and after pics.The bolts are in the same spot,but inside the panel I can't see.That bracket is what stops the window on the way up,so if it is upside down,it is roughly 2'' lower which will hit the regulator and in sense stop the window.
As far as the window being lower,just raise the lower stop up and that will allow the window to go down farther.I did not remove my glass,so I took these completely out to get the window down lower to get my belt trim screws out.

[69 OUR/TEA]

As far as moving the whole regulator forward,that will screw up the location of the hole for the crank in the door panel

[69 OUR/TEA]

Looking at your pic again,the before,above the higher bolt in that stop,looks like a soft curve of the bracket where it is 90 degrees,in your after pic,it looks like it is just the end of a flat piece,hinting that it is upside down.

[tan top]

 all what the other guys say  
been so long ago since i done mine  , & with out actually being there to see whats going on !!
looking at the lower glass stop , did you remove this ? only mine was facing the quarter , not sure it that makes any difference , as to it catching anything when the window is wound up ?
also like the other said slacken the up stops  

see green arrows

also third picture is of  mine when i striped it down for the resto ,  ignore the red circles thats the glass in & out movement for another thread

[HeavyFuel]

Thanks to all for the input so far.  This is gonna end up being a good thread for everyone.

I did some work over the weekend took some pics and will get them up in the next couple days.

**The putty is a re-creation of what was on there when I dis-assembled.  I think it was there to keep the rollers and assy in position during assy at the factory. 

[HeavyFuel]

Thanks for the input guys.  I took the suggestions and went after it again.

1)  OK.  I loosened the three bolts for the regulator and slid the whole assembly forward.  This had a couple of effects:
   
    A.  The qtr glass was now closer to the side glass simply because of the sliding.
    B.  The qtr glass could now be cranked up a little bit more, because the sliding created more clearance between the top of the qtr glass and the top weather-strip.  So I cranked up the glass, and that closed the rest of the side gap.  (When the qtr glass is almost all the way up,  the travel of the glass as you crank is just as much forward as it is up.)

2) The alignment between the qtr glass edge and the side glass will be off, and this can be adjusted by sliding this bolt up and down.  (I was wondering what than thing did.)  

3) You can see in the this pic that you can get the qtr glass the meet the side glass fuzzy perfect.

Big lesson for me (again):  Don't take the original position of parts as gospel.  I was getting way too hung up on "why" this was working when I took it apart and won't now.  Use the original positions of nuts/bolts/washers as guidelines, but be all means don't beat yourself up trying to force things to work.  If you have room to adjust, do it.

[HeavyFuel]

1-2)  Tea...the 'foot' of the stop was never removed when I disassembled, so.....that is odd that yours faces one way and mine another.  I adjusted it just a tish and the glass now drops below the belt molding as it should.

3) This is how my bolts ended up after adjusting everything.......for now.

[HeavyFuel]

1) As mentioned by Paul, you don't want to move the assembly forward too much.......the vinyl side panel needs to go on and the panel needs to fit behind the edge guard. I put on the edge molding and door panel to check for clearance.  The handle went on ok....looks like it'll work.

2)  The door edge needs black paint the before everything goes on to keep the body color from showing through. (see second pic of post)

3)  Date code of panel.  My car rolled off the line on Feb 2, 1968.


(No.....that panel with carpet is not going on.)

[HeavyFuel]

Okay....so let's check a few things.

1)  Top edge of side and qtr glass appear to be lined up.   Does it look high enough?  I think it is.  The qtr glass stops are now adjusted to that height.

2)  Quarter glass top edge seems to move along the upper weatherstrip as it should, and it presses against the beltline weather-strip, but not too hard.

3)  The side glass stainless edge is just barely away from the little felt pad on the outside.   I'm not sure exactly how far it is supposed to be away, but this seems right.   There is space on the inside for the cat whiskers.

[HeavyFuel]

Now this is a problem, I think.  

1-2)  The side glass does not align with the qtr glass, as shown.  I'm not sure which glass needs the adjusting.....maybe both.  The side glass doesn't seem to have very much ability to adjust, especially when you consider how the whole assy slides into the door and the attaching points.

Of course, the gap disappears when you close the door tight, so I thought at first maybe this gap might be normal, but two things changed my mind:
   A.  The side glass can barely be moved when the door is closed because of the pressure.
   B.  The qtr window gets FUBARed when you crank it down and then try to go back up again.

What seems weird is the qtr glass really doesn't have any room to tilt in at the top or out on the bottom........so I'm not sure what exactly to try to fix this.

I wish I could go back in time and slap the guy that designed this.  (Actually if I could go back in time, that wouldn't even get on the list of stuff to do....but that's another thread.)

[Patronus]

My gut tells me to adjust the lower arm (if its there) to the bottom of the door. This I believe adjusts the top of the glass in..
I'd have to go stick my head in my door.. Let me ask, is this both new door and quarter glass? Or are you re-installing your old glass?

[Finn]

Wow I'm having flashbacks. I hit all these problems as well.
The two bolts on the top for your 1/4 glass can be adjusted in and out then tightened with the nut. Try the one sliding bolt on the bottom of the long curved track inside the 1/4 window area first before messing with the top two.

[bill440rt]

Now that's a drastic improvement! 
Yep, those big silver nuts adjust the tilt or angle of the glass. I found it easiest to adjust with the door closed. Just loosen the nuts, IIRC you need to double-wrench in order to do this, and then turn the nut to adjust the glass in or out. Watch it until it meets the door glass, then tighten them down. 

[HeavyFuel]

This is the original door and glass, and the door hinges were not moved during the resto.

I'll start making small adjustment to the qtr glass bolts as you guys described. 


Does the door glass look right as it sits against the outside fuzzy at the beltline?  How about the way it lays against the top weatherstrip?   I hate to mess with the door too much if it's about where it should be. 

I think at this point the needed adjustments must be to the qtr glass and make it meet the side glass.  Because if I tilt the side glass at all to match the qtr glass, the side glass top will land to far in and miss that flat outer surface of the weatherstrip.   

[Charger-Bodie]

One thing Id like to add is that when you get the 1/4 glass close you need to start checking it with the upper pad in olace because it can and likely will effect it some.

[Finn]

[HeavyFuel]

Ok.   That makes sense.  I did think about that for the side glass and cat whiskers.  I do it for the qtr glass as well.

[tan top]

down a few times

Now this is a problem, I think.  

1-2)  The side glass does not align with the qtr glass, as shown.  I'm not sure which glass needs the adjusting.....maybe both.  The side glass doesn't seem to have very much ability to adjust, especially when you consider how the whole assy slides into the door and the attaching points.

Of course, the gap disappears when you close the door tight, so I thought at first maybe this gap might be normal, but two things changed my mind:
   A.  The side glass can barely be moved when the door is closed because of the pressure.
   B.  The qtr window gets FUBARed when you crank it down and then try to go back up again.

What seems weird is the qtr glass really doesn't have any room to tilt in at the top or out on the bottom........so I'm not sure what exactly to try to fix this.

I wish I could go back in time and slap the guy that designed this.  (Actually if I could go back in time, that wouldn't even get on the list of stuff to do....but that's another thread.)

what the other guys say 

also from when i done mine can remember , when all the doors strikers latches fitted & aligned correctly , & the vent window frame is adjusted so the gap looks right to the windshield pillar , wind the door glass up & down a few times , adjust the rear door glass run channel , as necessary so it move up & down easy & smooth , then wind the door  glass back up , now adjust the rear quarter glass, in or  as necessary , so when winding up it slides behind the stainless strip on the back edge of the door glass & no gap , also the vertical gap between the two edges of the glass should the parallel

[b5blue]

     So be ready to do all 4 side windows at the same time...

[tan top]

     So be ready to do all 4 side windows at the same time...

yes sort of , or at least one side at a time  , might have to adjust the front & rear a few times to get it how you want ,

[b5blue]

 

[HeavyFuel]

Been hitting this project on and off over the last few weeks....was on it again yesterday for a few hours.   

Learning a few things, like the main culprit causing the missalignment of the side glass to qtr glass was the repo rail weatherstrip.  I went back to the original stuff, and am proceeding with the adjustments.

I'll post in detail when I get things all squared away. 

[Dino]

Been hitting this project on and off over the last few weeks....was on it again yesterday for a few hours.   

Learning a few things, like the main culprit causing the missalignment of the side glass to qtr glass was the repo rail weatherstrip.  I went back to the original stuff, and am proceeding with the adjustments.

I'll post in detail when I get things all squared away. 

Ah that's what I forgot to do, check the new seal.  Have to do that tonight and see if it has that lip or not.  I sure hope it does because the original ones are hard as a rock.

[Charger-Bodie]

Been hitting this project on and off over the last few weeks....was on it again yesterday for a few hours.   

Learning a few things, like the main culprit causing the missalignment of the side glass to qtr glass was the repo rail weatherstrip.  I went back to the original stuff, and am proceeding with the adjustments.

I'll post in detail when I get things all squared away. 

Just did these this weekend. Repro weatherstripes were fine. Are yours the Metro ones or?

[HeavyFuel]

They might be.  I yanked 'em out of the bag last summer and tossed the bag.  I'm pretty sure I got 'em from Mega, so whatever brand they peddle.  I'll dig through my receipts.

Does your moulding differ in shape from where the door glass contacts and where the qtr glass contacts it?

The qtr glass area of the moulding has a groove for the glass to live in, cause the glass rises up from below.  The side glass rubber is mostly flat at the glass contact area for the closing door glass to lay against it.

Does your repo stuff do that?  Mine didn't....it was the same shape the whole length, and the glass wouldn't align.

[HeavyFuel]

I got 'em from YO.  Are those Metro?

[Charger-Bodie]

 Not sure what year -one carries. I have had new ones that weren't right though. The ones I installed over the weekend were metro and from mega parts. They were very nice to install and the glass hits them cherry.

[HeavyFuel]

Hey....that's good news.  Kinda.    

I get to buy new mouldings , but at least I don't have to re-use the old ones.


Thanks.

[HeavyFuel]

Well crap...I guess I'm just too dumb to make these repo mouldings work.

The ones I have are Metro's.  This is what I ordered from YO:

1966-74 A/B/E-Body
CC2015 
Roof rail weatherstripping,
1968-1970 B-body coupe models, reproduction


So if they worked great for you, and not me........well, I guess that says something about my skills....or yours.

[Charger-Bodie]

Right there is your problem. You have coupe seals ,you need hardtop seals.

[Dino]

1HotDaytona, do you know the metro part number for the correct seals?  I need to check mine before I rip the old seal off the car.

[Charger-Bodie]

1HotDaytona, do you know the metro part number for the correct seals?  I need to check mine before I rip the old seal off the car.

Dirk, I will try to remember to look tonight . The package should still be in the garbage can in my garage.

[Dino]

1HotDaytona, do you know the metro part number for the correct seals?  I need to check mine before I rip the old seal off the car.

Dirk, I will try to remember to look tonight . The package should still be in the garbage can in my garage.

Thank you much my friend!   

[Charger-Bodie]

I went out and got the number quick before heading off to work. The number is : rr 4001-a 68-70 mopar b body 2 Dr hardtop , no post.

[Dino]

I went out and got the number quick before heading off to work. The number is : rr 4001-a 68-70 mopar b body 2 Dr hardtop , no post.

Awesome!  I'll compare it to mine tonight.  Thanks!   

[HeavyFuel]

Yes.  Thank you, HotDaytona.

Coupe, sedan, hardtop.     I thought I had a grasp of the meanings......

[Finn]

Wow...pretty sure I have the wrong seals too. That explains a lot.

[HeavyFuel]

OK....my struggles with the seals continue.

(My progress on the car has been slowed to almost a standstill and in fact I'm starting to doubt my own intelligence.  I fear my sanity is the next thing to go.)

Ordered up and rec'd the different seals (4001a Hardtop), and gave them a look.  Hmmm, the profile looks pretty close to the ones that I ordered before that were for a B Body Coupe, but they are a little fatter in the base area.  No little groove for the qtr seal to slide into.     Crap


Let's compare length.  Hmmm, the 4001a's are a little bit longer from the base of the windshield end to the corner (pic 1).  Crap......no way these can be the right ones.

I looked for markings on the back of the repo seals.  The Hardtop and Coupe seals both have '4001' moulded on the back from Metro.  

I don't know what the heck is going on.  For now I'm gonna use my original '68 seals, and work on other parts of the car.  Problem is, I don't have that much left, pretty much just interior, and these damn things are holding up the show.

The pics show that there is clearly a difference between the orginals and the repos.  

Hotdaytona...I don't know how you got your 4001a's to work but I suspect that your glass was already adjusted with the original seals in place and somehow the repos went in and worked.  Have you tried to operate the windows with the new seals?  How do they function?

[Dino]

I went out and got the number quick before heading off to work. The number is : rr 4001-a 68-70 mopar b body 2 Dr hardtop , no post.

I was finally able to dig those up and that's exactly the kit I have.  Seeing there is such a difference between these and stock seals I wonder if it's best do the whole manual to power swap and tweak the windows before I install the new seals or after...

[Charger-Bodie]

My thoughts are that if your original seals are nice, you should reuse them.

As for the new ones being different, its possible that Chrysler changed these along the way and metro copied the later style. Just a theory.

As far as the window already been adjusted when I put these in. No. And just like yours .mine has new rollers and  was totally apart. I even have new AMD doors to possibly make it more difficult. Truth is that they adjusted very easy,but I've done dozens of them.

I hope you get yours dialed in.

[Charger-Bodie]

I just went and looked at an old set that I have here. They were the same as your originals. The new ones work fine as well though, so if you choose to use the new ones they will work fine when you get it adjusted correctly.

[HeavyFuel]

Thanks for checking on that.

I took a break from the windows and worked on the headlight vacuum lines last night.

However:
Earlier it was mentioned that to do the final adjustments on the glass, the outside and inside fuzzys need to be in place.  So, just thinking out loud, should the sequence be?:

1. glass and all window parts inside, door and qtr
2. exterior fuzzy, door and qtr
3. adjust glass, door and qtr
4. plastic barrier, door and qtr
5. interior door SS trim piece (between pad and panel), door and qtr
6. upper pad w/fuzzy, qtr (installation limits the adjustments that can be made to glass)
7. upper pad, door (installation limits the adjustments that can be made to glass)
8. interior fuzzy, door
9. glass final adjust
10. panels, door and qtr
11. window cranks, door and qtr

I'm a little unsure how to do the final adjusting on the glass with all the upper pads/fuzzys in place, unless the pads are taken on and off between adjustments.  That doesn't sound too fun.

  Maybe the final adjustments needed after the pads /fuzzys are installed can be done at the adjusting points that are still accessable?

Hopefully at some point I'll get this thread back on track with some useful tech that others can learn from.

[Charger-Bodie]

It may be necessary to intall the pad and need to remove to get them set just right. The window ideally won't need the pad to help with fit ,but some of them only have so much adjustment.

[AKcharger]

Hoorey for Burnt Orange!!!

[Charger-Bodie]

Hoorey for Burnt Orange!!!

??

[AKcharger]

Original pictures showed B/O interior...at least it looked like it to me 

[HeavyFuel]

Original pictures showed B/O interior...at least it looked like it to me  

Nope....sorry.   That is primer you see.   The interior is Black.

[chargervic]

This is an excellent thread and gets things going in the right direction. I had gotten one side quarter glass to work quite well, but the second one had the same problems as others had here, not going far enough forward and/or hitting the top too soon. I had a phone conversation with another member on this site, RR70 and his suggestion worked extremely well, so I thought I'd post it along here as it seems to be a problem for quite a few.
Using this method, I got the glass very close within a couple of minutes. The final tuning will be easy after I get the new roof rail weatherstrips installed.
Just loosen ALL the adjustments and stops so that they can move with a bit of pressure on them. Next bring the glass from the lowered position up to the raised position, helping it along by pulling the glass with your hand towards where it SHOULD go. This works with both manual and power regulators. It may take a couple of tries to get it where it needs to be, but let the tracks move in their adjustment slots as the glass moves into place. When it sits correctly, just tighten the adjuster bolts and the upper two stops( front and back) against the frame tabs where the glass sits. THEN use the vertical tilt adjustments to get the glass to align with the back of the door glass and sit in the center of the the fuzzies. It seems that the forward and upward travel adjustments cause the most problems. The factory manual tilt adjustment instructions work quite well afterwards.
Thanks very much to RR70 for the help.
chargervic

[Steve P.]

I may have missed it,but wouldn't it work out well it you were to drill some holes through the 1/4 sheet metal inside through the window assembly (BEFORE) removing it from the car? This would give you the best reference points to go back to, yes??  I know many do this with hoods and door hinges. Why not window regulators?? 

[chargervic]

From previous experience and comments from others, it seems that previous adjustments are not always relevant. I had all the marks in the paint from the prior set up and they did not help. I matched the positions that worked on the other side and that didn't get me where I wanted to be either. However, the "pulling on the glass" method worked within a couple of minutes after trying other methods for a few hours, so that is why I posted this. It worked very well and I was just hoping to help others with this ugly problem. I think that, once all the pieces are removed completely, they go back together with minor differences in the clearances for bolts, etc. and nothing is exactly the same as when the last installation happened. Therefore, it's pretty much starting from scratch each time. There is a lot more geometry and moving parts in here than a hood hinge.
Thanks for the comment, though.

[Hard Charger]

taking a chance someone will respond here.

I spent the day adjusting windows and hating it.

I read that the drip rail weather-stripping is a culprit of a lot of misalignment from the front window to the quarter glass. I am having a similar problem. the top back of the door glass is getting pushed out of alignment with the top of the quarter glass. if I drop the door glass 1/8"-1/4" the alignment is very good, just enough to not rub on the rubber.

I have a 68, what is the correct weather-stripping to buy for this car. I believe I need to change mine out.

I bought it years ago and cannot remember what brand it was.

[chargervic]

When I started my last Charger project it had fairly new Metro roof rail weatherstrips. They were not the easiest to put in place not did they fit well at the back end of the channel. I replaced them with O E R brand, purchased from Classic Industries and the difference was very noticeable. They almost fell into place in the channel and fit well at the front angle near the vent window, again at the mid-point and the back end fit just like it should. I would highly recommend this brand. They made the window alignment job very smooth.

[UH60L]

I know this is an old thread, but hoping someone can tell me, what size, thread, and length of bolts hold the quarter glass to the regulator assembly?

I am finally getting around to putting the side glass in.  I was almost ready to last summer, then blew the engine in my truck and spent all my time and money on that.

I seem to have lost/misplaced the bolts that hold the glass in I have a "hardware kit" that has the grommets and rubber spacers and new roller parts as needed, but no bolts.

Any help would be appreciated.

Clint

[chargervic]

I just went through my parts bin of window stuff and found some bolts (actually screws) that go in the plastic inserts in the glass. It's been several years since I worked on this part of the car, so my memory isn't that great on the subject. These screws have a coarse self tapping thread to cut into the plastic parts. The heads are Phillips with a large 9/16" flanged head. There are two lengths, 1 5/8" and 1 ⅛". The diameter is about ¼".
I don't know how to make a pic file small enough to work on this site, but if you PM me with your email address, I'll send pics of what I have.

[UH60L]

I just went through my parts bin of window stuff and found some bolts (actually screws) that go in the plastic inserts in the glass. It's been several years since I worked on this part of the car, so my memory isn't that great on the subject. These screws have a coarse self tapping thread to cut into the plastic parts. The heads are Phillips with a large 9/16" flanged head. There are two lengths, 1 5/8" and 1 ⅛". The diameter is about ¼".
I don't know how to make a pic file small enough to work on this site, but if you PM me with your email address, I'll send pics of what I have.

I think you're thinking of the door glass.  I'm talking about the back side windows (back seat).  The glass sits on top of the regulator assembly and gets bolted to it.  It has threads in the metal regulator that the bolts go into.  No plastic involved that I know of.   

I have the paper grommets and rubber inserts (came in the kit I bought), but I don't know the size/thread/length of the bolts because the body shop took the windows out back in 2008 and threw everything into three carboard boxes. 

[vita]

All I gotta say...

I owe yall a beer.  This is going to help me in the next few weeks for sure!