727 upgrade

[justcruisin]

I am considering pulling my trans in my 71 r/t charger, the trans is working fine and shifts good but I have been a little concerned since I have upped the HP with a rebuild. Engine is nothing radical 10.2:1 eddy head 448ci around the 500Hp mark. The trans is the original unit, it runs a 11 inch converter around 2800 and 3.23 gears with 27 inch tires.
What would be a good way to go without going over the top, what is the best source for parts and info as I have never opened a trans before besides a filter change. As allways, all help much appreciated.

[oldkimmer]

...........With it working fine i would just get a Trans Go -2 shift kit and install it in the street/strip mode........kim.......

[Dmichels]

THey are a tough trans Put a shift kit in it and run it. I use to have a 440 and an auto in my car. Beat the crap out of it It never failed me.
Dave

[justcruisin]

OK, a shift kit would be a good idea, thanks for the advice.

[johnnycharger]

...........With it working fine i would just get a Trans Go -2 shift kit and install it in the street/strip mode........kim.......

my 727 had a stage 3 shift kit when I bought it, or so I was told, but i dont know anything about it. What do you mean by "street /strip mode"?

[mhinders]

I am doing a total rebuild and reinforcement of my 727, and I consider the bolt in sprag the most important one. Not sure if it's really needed with my current estimated 500+ hp, but it makes me feel safer when I let the engine roar.

[John_Kunkel]

The bolt-in sprag doesn't prevent all sprag failures, it only prevents the outer race from spinning in the case.

If you want to feel safer, leave the stock sprag and install a valve body with LBA and only let the engine roar in 1st gear with the shifter in "1". For the ultimate in safe install a billet front clutch drum.

[mhinders]

The bolt-in sprag doesn't prevent all sprag failures, it only prevents the outer race from spinning in the case.

If you want to feel safer, leave the stock sprag and install a valve body with LBA and only let the engine roar in 1st gear with the shifter in "1". For the ultimate in safe install a billet front clutch drum.

I'm installing a TransGo TF-2 as well, but haven't found any docs that really tell me the function of it. Will that one be of some help?

[mhinders]

The bolt-in sprag doesn't prevent all sprag failures, it only prevents the outer race from spinning in the case.

If you want to feel safer, leave the stock sprag and install a valve body with LBA and only let the engine roar in 1st gear with the shifter in "1". For the ultimate in safe install a billet front clutch drum.

Sorry for hijacking this thread, but maybe there is some common interest in it...

I may have misunderstood the function, but using a bolt-in sprag prevents the outer race from spinning, and this in turn prevents the front clutch drum from spinning up to 2-3x the engine revs?
In that case the bolt-in sprag would make the billet front drum less necessary from a safety point of view?

[John_Kunkel]

There are two types of sprag failure, the most common failure involves the rollers/springs while the outer race remains in place...the least common failure is the outer race spinning in the case. In the pic below the ends of the bolts holding the outer race are clearly visible but the rollers have failed.... the bolt-in function didn't help.

When the sprag fails, the front drum spins 2.2 times input shaft speed and the stock drum can fly apart from centrifugal force. Using a valve body with LBA takes part of the load off of the sprag so a LBA valve body and a Super-Sprag are the best defense but there's still that cast steel drum...a billet drum is the ultimate defense.

A TF-2 kit improves the function of the transmission by reprogramming the shift timing and improving fluid flow, it still retains the LBA function.

[hemi68charger]

I'll be putting a Turbo-Action Cheetah valve body in my Daytona in the near future.. Great upgrade, street strip version.. Don't want the full-manual mode.....

[John_Kunkel]

The so-called "Manual/Automatic" valve bodies don't do a single thing that the TF-2 kit won't do for less money.

[justcruisin]

I am considering pulling my trans in my 71 r/t charger, the trans is working fine and shifts good but I have been a little concerned since I have upped the HP with a rebuild. Engine is nothing radical 10.2:1 eddy head 448ci around the 500Hp mark. The trans is the original unit, it runs a 11 inch converter around 2800 and 3.23 gears with 27 inch tires.
What would be a good way to go without going over the top, what is the best source for parts and info as I have never opened a trans before besides a filter change. As allways, all help much appreciated.

So do you feel for my application the TF-2 is all that I need, providing the trans is in sound condition.

[John_Kunkel]

Yes. The packaged manual/auto valve bodies don't have any magic in them that the TF-2 doesn't have.

[justcruisin]

OK, Thanks for  the advice.