Is distributor either right on or 180 out when doing TDC?

[WH23G3G]

After the carb guy messed up my carb and the timing I haven't been able to get my 73 started again. I haven't felt like messing with it. But I did send my carb off to get restored where they actually rebuilt it and refinished it. So when I put it on and tried to start where it was I noticed it popped out the top of the carb so I didn't go any further. Today I checked the rotor position at TDC. I had a friend check for air coming out the #1 spark plug hole while I turned it. It's not easy to get to the crank pulley nut anymore with the fan and shroud on, so I had to remove it all just to do this. We turned a couple of times but because I can turn the breaker bar so much and so fast it was kinda hard to distinguish where compression was. I know the rotor was pointing at #1 or I think it was #6. I just put it opposite at where it was when it was popping. After getting it all back together I tried to start it, and it actually cranked up but still popped lightly. Could it still do that at TDC? Will it even start up at 180 off? Isn't there only two ways to put in a distributor on the big blocks either right on or 180 off because of the way the oil pump shaft is indexed?

[John_Kunkel]

I would use the starter instead of a bar to establish TDC #1. With your thumb in the #1 hole, bump the starter until you feel compression and then bar it the rest of the way to the TDC mark on the damper.

[b5blue]

180 out and your blowing out the carb and exhaust.....

[WH23G3G]

Will it even start up and run 180 out? Will it in fact still backfire even at TDC? 

[Cooter]

Will it even start up and run 180 out? Will it in fact still backfire even at TDC?  

When you say "180 out", you ARE referring to the distributor and you DID NOT take out the Oil pump drive gear that's down in the engine did you?

You are right where the brand X guys are with trying to line that thing back up to where your wires are correct. If it's in fact been moved around, I'd simply start over by finding #1 TDC with the starter and finger method, then rewire the distributor cap CCW for BB and CW for Small block..

Once you finds TDC, look at your wires and see if the rotor is lining up with #1 Plug tower. If not, you should see the rotor pointing Exactly 180 degrees away.

However, if the drive gear hasn't been moved, and all that's been moved is distributor, then it will NOT run 180 out. All it will do is backfire through carb.
Turn it completely around and try it.

[Dmichels]

It will not run if it is 180 off. First check the spark plug wires to make sure they are right. If you can almost get it going try rotating the dizzy 1 inch either way.

[WH23G3G]

I didn't mess with the oil pump driveshaft. So when we put it at TDC the slot in the oil pump shaft was straight inline with the camshaft. So I thought that you could install the distributor either correct or 180 out since the bottom of distributor shaft is slotted to fit the oil pump shaft. Last time before I did this it definitely did pop out the carb because I saw it, luckily it didn't flame up. After we did this procedure it seemed to want to start up but I didn't go further because it was getting late. So I'll try it again soon.

[b5blue]

If it's not timed at around 12* more or less initial could be your problem. Do what John said first. Then set initial timing.

[Cooter]

I didn't mess with the oil pump driveshaft. So when we put it at TDC the slot in the oil pump shaft was straight inline with the camshaft. So I thought that you could install the distributor either correct or 180 out since the bottom of distributor shaft is slotted to fit the oil pump shaft. Last time before I did this it definitely did pop out the carb because I saw it, luckily it didn't flame up. After we did this procedure it seemed to want to start up but I didn't go further because it was getting late. So I'll try it again soon.

Then, you should be able to turn it 180 degrees and it should try and run. Then, slowly rotate distibutor to advance until it fires. But, beware, you mighta loaded the plugs and it might take a little while to get it to fire.

[WH23G3G]

I realized what was wrong today thinking about the plug wires on my Charger. I had the firing order correct, I just had it going the wrong way. I had it going clockwise and it spit and coughed trying to start. So I reversed the firing order going counter-clockwise and hit the key and it fired up on the first start. It definitely needs to be timed, it ran and didn't stall but it's idling low. Now I know I'm going to adjust the timing using a light now but also when you do that the idle will change. In the factory service manual for 1973 it says to adjust the idle with the air cleaner on. But there is no way you can with the original dual snorkel air cleaner, the idle screw is buried right under it. Is it going to make a huge difference if I have the air cleaner is off? The carburetor was run and adjusted on an engine according to the carburetor restoration place and it fired right up without any pumping unlike it did before the restore. Should I got with the factory specs and see how it runs since I don't know how to adjust timing and idle by sound. It's suppose to be 7.5 BTDC and 750 RPM. I know with the new type of gas the timing may needed to be adjusted, but I have to actually put it at a number because that's the only way I can do it until I can drive it to a shop. 

[b5blue]

  you were 360* out

[Troy]

It's usually the simple things! Setting it up is an iterative process. Set idle, set timing, set mixture. When it's closer to being right the idle will go up so you repeat the steps. Once you put the air cleaner back on it will change slightly (lean?) but it shouldn't make a drastic difference. I can reach all the screws on my cars even with the air cleaner on but it's a pain.

Troy

[chargd72]

I realized what was wrong today thinking about the plug wires on my Charger. I had the firing order correct, I just had it going the wrong way. I had it going clockwise and it spit and coughed trying to start. So I reversed the firing order going counter-clockwise and hit the key and it fired up on the first start. It definitely needs to be timed, it ran and didn't stall but it's idling low. Now I know I'm going to adjust the timing using a light now but also when you do that the idle will change. In the factory service manual for 1973 it says to adjust the idle with the air cleaner on. But there is no way you can with the original dual snorkel air cleaner, the idle screw is buried right under it. Is it going to make a huge difference if I have the air cleaner is off? The carburetor was run and adjusted on an engine according to the carburetor restoration place and it fired right up without any pumping unlike it did before the restore. Should I got with the factory specs and see how it runs since I don't know how to adjust timing and idle by sound. It's suppose to be 7.5 BTDC and 750 RPM. I know with the new type of gas the timing may needed to be adjusted, but I have to actually put it at a number because that's the only way I can do it until I can drive it to a shop. 

Haha, nice catch.  You must have been a small block owner at some point.

[WH23G3G]

I'm going to try and do the initial timing tomorrow with a timing light. I'm going to put it at 7.5 degrees BTC  @ 750RPM as the specs for a 73 400-4BBL automatic and then I'll see how it acts then. I forgot when I turn the distributor with it running what is the will give you a shock? Is it touching the wires or the cap?   

[WH23G3G]

I started up my Charger and did an initial timing reading with the advance timing light and it was at about 15 degrees with the vacuum hose disconnected. So I proceeded to set it to the factory specs of 7.5 degrees BTC. So I did that with the vacuum hose still disconnected and I got dead on, at about 750-800RPM. It was idling strong. I rechecked it after I retightened the clamp and before I reconneted the vacuum advance hose. I noticed when I plugged the vacuum hose back in that the timing mark moved a little before the 0 degree mark. I know I have the OSAC system all hooked up right too and I know it's suppose to do something to the timing but I think it's only on deceleration. Is the timing mark suppose to vary a little when you reconnect the vacuum advance hose?