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Window regulator swap. This is going to be fun.

Started by Dino, January 04, 2013, 09:17:22 AM

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Dino

Okay so I may be a bit sarcastic.  The last time I worked on installing/adjusting a Charger window was on my 68, over 15 years ago.  I remember vividly though that it was a pita.

I need to remove my manual window regulators and install power regulators.  I know not having the motor brackets AND having modern motors will be an issue by itself but it shouldn't be too bad.

When I do this I will also install new roof rail weatherstripping.  The soft kind from metro.  I sure hope it's not going to give me issues but I need to replace the originals, they're too hard and they leak when I drive it through the no-touch car wash.
I will also remove the vent window assembly and replace the vent window seals.  If I recall, I need to adjust the vent window frame first and then install the door regs.

My manual windows roll up and down without any issues so I may end up reusing the old rollers and hardware.  Is there anything I need for the power regs that won't be on the manual regs?  I can't think of anything but that doesn't mean much.   :icon_smile_big:

I saved a few links that show how to adjust the windows but does anyone have a guide on how to remove the old regs and install the new?  It's the coil that worries me more than anything.

Also, the quarter window power regs are connected to the big aluminum bracket but whatever clip is on there is pretty rusty.  What's the correct way to seperate the two pieces?  I don't want to break anything if I can help it.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Ghoste

The only thing I can do is to wish you the best Dino.  :2thumbs:  I am fully confident you'll get it done but it won't be a one hour job for sure. :lol:

Dino

Thanks for the vote of confidence.   :2thumbs:

Heck I'll be glad to go one hour without breaking something.   :lol:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

PlainfieldCharger

It always seems these cars are not hard to disassemble but something always breaks, crackes or gets lost from children being nosey :Twocents:

ChargerST

Keep us updated as I want to do the same thing (when I can find PW regulators for a decent price).

What about the downward window stop? iirc there is a rubber stop on a metal bracket bolted to bottom of the door - is this PW car only thing?

Dino

Quote from: ChargerST on January 04, 2013, 11:11:36 AM
Keep us updated as I want to do the same thing (when I can find PW regulators for a decent price).

What about the downward window stop? iirc there is a rubber stop on a metal bracket bolted to bottom of the door - is this PW car only thing?

I know there's a rubber stop on the big quarter window bracket but I don't know about the door, haven't opened one up in a long time.

There's a few sources for power windows at this time:  A driver's side only on ebay, the full kit on ebay from moparmendy, and 3 regs + motors on jopar.ca.  He's missing the passenger side.

Member 69charger2002 has a full kit as well including switches and wiring and member Mopar John has both '68 doors with all the hardware + the quarter hardware.  Charger_69 has the full kit as well.

I have original motors but they'd need to be rebuild so I spent a little over $100 to get 4 new Dorman motors.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

ChargerST

Thanks Dino!

The thing is I only want the two front regulators and maybe the rear ones. The plan is to use new motors for the front windows and universal cable type motors for the rear windows - that way I don have to mess with the rear regulators (I can live with a knob hiding the window crank in the rear). Front regulators are kinda easy to change so I will do that.

I want to fab my own wiring harness with relays and new wiring so I don't really need the factory harness. I also got the switches already.

On top I want this done in a budget manner without spending several hundred $$$ on regulators. 

Dino

The cable type should work fine as well although I haven't really heard any feedback on them.  When you remove the front and rear interior panels flip them over.  You'll see an outline for the original switches in the cardboard so you can remove the crank and install original switches.  Nobody will ever know.   :icon_smile_big:

You can easily wire the whole thing from scratch but if you have a junkyard near you look for a c-barge and get that wiring harness, same thing.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

The70RT

I am about to install ALL my complete window assemblies. I removed them over 5 years ago and completely disasebled them....should be fun. It would be nice if all my parts would get here. There is plenty of info on here if you run into a snag Dino.
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Dino

Quote from: The70RT on January 04, 2013, 12:11:34 PM
I am about to install ALL my complete window assemblies. I removed them over 5 years ago and completely disasebled them....should be fun. It would be nice if all my parts would get here. There is plenty of info on here if you run into a snag Dino.

True, I found some real good info on these.  As long as I take my time and take plenty stress breaks it should be allright.

I will definitely try to take lots of pics along the way so we can make it into a guide.  It's nice to have everything in one place.

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

ChargerST

Quote from: Dino on January 04, 2013, 12:09:07 PM
You can easily wire the whole thing from scratch but if you have a junkyard near you look for a c-barge and get that wiring harness, same thing.

Living in Austria/Europe has one major disadvantage: no junkyards with old Detroit iron!

anyways, adding relays is something you might wanna consider too! these little motors draw quite a bit of current - especially when the channels get dirty and the motors need to push stronger.

Dino

Quote from: ChargerST on January 04, 2013, 12:30:47 PM
Quote from: Dino on January 04, 2013, 12:09:07 PM
You can easily wire the whole thing from scratch but if you have a junkyard near you look for a c-barge and get that wiring harness, same thing.

Living in Austria/Europe has one major disadvantage: no junkyards with old Detroit iron!

anyways, adding relays is something you might wanna consider too! these little motors draw quite a bit of current - especially when the channels get dirty and the motors need to push stronger.

I forgot you were in Austria, yeah not a lot of c-bodies out there.   :icon_smile_big:

You could buy a harness off ebay but yeah, not that big of a deal to assemble one yourself.

Relays WILL be installed for power windows AND headlights and anything else that needs it. 

You just reminded me to find a control unit that will activate remote door locks AND make all 4 windows go up and down at the same time.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

ChargerST

What about 6-way power seats? :icon_smile_cool:

by the way let me know if you find a place that sells those relays http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=4775992


Dino

Quote from: ChargerST on January 05, 2013, 10:38:32 AM
What about 6-way power seats? :icon_smile_cool:

They are on my list.   :icon_smile_big:

by the way let me know if you find a place that sells those relays http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=4775992



Is that the one to go with?  I'll keep an eye open.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

ChargerST

Yeah, you need either two 5-pin relays or the one in the picture (this is for one window).

stripedelete

I pulled a rear regulator out Saturday.  Next time I will just get a root canal.

The clip is a pain, but, seemingly well designed for the job.  I worked from the bottom up .  I had a buddy verbally guiding my screw driver from the top because it is faces away from you. (You could rip it off with a dental tool if you have another one.
Luckily, I did not have to go to plan "B")

As for the rest, I took the window out first and then removed every nut and bolt I could see/find including the clip.

If you're over 18 a couch cushion is a recommended tool.  ;D

Dino

Quote from: stripedelete on January 07, 2013, 07:15:14 PM
I pulled a rear regulator out Saturday.  Next time I will just get a root canal.

The clip is a pain, but, seemingly well designed for the job.  I worked from the bottom up .  I had a buddy verbally guiding my screw driver from the top because it is faces away from you. (You could rip it off with a dental tool if you have another one.
Luckily, I did not have to go to plan "B")

As for the rest, I took the window out first and then removed every nut and bolt I could see/find including the clip.

If you're over 18 a couch cushion is a recommended tool.  ;D

I'm not sure wether to laugh or cry.   :lol:

This will be fun, this will be fun, this will be fun...
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Ghoste

I laughed but I don't have one that I'll be changing out anytime soon (that I know of).  It will be fun Dino. :cheers:

six-tee-nine

I pulled the rear ones out last week since the body will get a full media blast or a acid dip (dunno wich one yet) but I can tell you these regulators need to go in before final paint. How to get them in or out without scuffing some paint is a big Q-mark for me....
I was told the factory put them in before the quarter went on the car.....
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


The70RT

Quote from: six-tee-nine on January 28, 2013, 06:33:12 AM
I pulled the rear ones out last week since the body will get a full media blast or a acid dip (dunno wich one yet) but I can tell you these regulators need to go in before final paint. How to get them in or out without scuffing some paint is a big Q-mark for me....
I was told the factory put them in before the quarter went on the car.....

You can put them in after paint that's what I just did. I managed to get the right one in through the bottom hole. I lost my patiemce on the left side and went in the trunk and slid it up over the wheel well. If i did it again both would go in through the trunk.
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six-tee-nine

Quote from: The70RT on January 28, 2013, 11:31:58 AM
Quote from: six-tee-nine on January 28, 2013, 06:33:12 AM
I pulled the rear ones out last week since the body will get a full media blast or a acid dip (dunno wich one yet) but I can tell you these regulators need to go in before final paint. How to get them in or out without scuffing some paint is a big Q-mark for me....
I was told the factory put them in before the quarter went on the car.....

You can put them in after paint that's what I just did. I managed to get the right one in through the bottom hole. I lost my patiemce on the left side and went in the trunk and slid it up over the wheel well. If i did it again both would go in through the trunk.


Damn I feel like a moron now......  never tought about the option trough the runk over the wheel well.....Gee those things cost me almost a year of my life to remove...
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


HeavyFuel

It's interesting to see what is troublesome for different people. :scratchchin:

Pretty much everything is hard for me, but the qtr glass regulator was easy to get in last weekend.....literally it took a only about 30 seconds to get it slipped down from the top into the area inside.     :shruggy:

The opening for the quarter glass is wider at the rear than the front (jamb).  That helps.

The two pieces in orange and green should be all that is attempted to install or remove at one time.  They are attached together, but roll and pivot.  Factory putty keeps the rollers from coming out of the tracks during handling.  

(Sorry about the elementary dialogue, but I know some folks are just getting into this type of thing.)

Dino

Quote from: HeavyFuel on January 31, 2013, 02:00:00 PM
It's interesting to see what is troublesome for different people. :scratchchin:

Pretty much everything is hard for me, but the qtr glass regulator was easy to get in last weekend.....literally it took a only a few seconds to get it slipped down from the top into the area inside.     :shruggy:

The opening for the quarter glass is wider at the rear than the front (jamb).  That helps.

The two pieces in orange and green should be all that is attempted to install or remove at one time.  They are attached together, but roll and pivot.  Factory putty keeps the rollers from coming out of the tracks during handling.  

(Sorry about the elementary dialogue, but I know some folks are just getting into this type of thing.)


Your thread is going to save my butt when I do this conversion.   :yesnod:

So what is the putty you are using?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

The70RT

Quote from: Dino on January 31, 2013, 02:42:44 PM
Quote from: HeavyFuel on January 31, 2013, 02:00:00 PM
It's interesting to see what is troublesome for different people. :scratchchin:

Pretty much everything is hard for me, but the qtr glass regulator was easy to get in last weekend.....literally it took a only a few seconds to get it slipped down from the top into the area inside.     :shruggy:

The opening for the quarter glass is wider at the rear than the front (jamb).  That helps.

The two pieces in orange and green should be all that is attempted to install or remove at one time.  They are attached together, but roll and pivot.  Factory putty keeps the rollers from coming out of the tracks during handling.  

(Sorry about the elementary dialogue, but I know some folks are just getting into this type of thing.)


Your thread is going to save my butt when I do this conversion.   :yesnod:

So what is the putty you are using?

When I removed mine I took themfor out through the top, But with new paint and a new headliner I didn't want to risk it.
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HeavyFuel

The putty is hardware store white caulking for sealing around doors and windows.  It's rope form, comes in a small box and I spooled off some and mashed it together.  It's the same stuff I'm gonna use to hold on the plastic barrier under the door/qtr interior panels.

Dino

Quote from: HeavyFuel on January 31, 2013, 05:23:10 PM
The putty is hardware store white caulking for sealing around doors and windows.  It's rope form, comes in a small box and I spooled off some and mashed it together.  It's the same stuff I'm gonna use to hold on the plastic barrier under the door/qtr interior panels.

I know the stuff, I'll get some for this project.   :2thumbs:

Well I'm almost ready for this.  It's still way too cold and snowy here to bring the Charger home but I hope to have much of the prep work done soon.  I also need to install an alarm system, door actuators, trunk lock and a bunch of other stuff so most of the interior will come out.  Having gone through these window reg threads I'm not as nervous anymore, except that I will have to fabricate brackets to secure the motors to the frames.  It's the electrical that's making me nervous right now but I'll get through it. 

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

HeavyFuel

Dino.....think twice when replacing your roof rail weatherstrip. :Twocents:

I have been going through the qtr glass adjustment process....and I know you've been following that topic .

The new weatherstrip is not the same shape as the old.  I haven't been able to update the other thread yet, because I want to get pics and do it right.

Bottom line is that the new weatherstrip (at least the stuff I got from YO) is NOT shaped the same as the factory stuff.  Out of frustration in trying to get my qtr glass/door glass to line up, I yanked out the repo weatherstrip and put in the original stuff.   Gee........low and behold.....the qtr glass is perfect now, and lines up nice with the door glass, because they lay differently against the weatherstrip.

I was happy to solve my qtr glass problem, pissed at the same time.....another $80 shot, and I'll be re-using my original stuff, which thankfully should be able to get me by.

Maybe other brands of weatherstrip have got their act together, but just watch out.

Watch the other thread, I'll be updating that with all the info.

Dino

Quote from: HeavyFuel on February 06, 2013, 02:01:36 PM
Dino.....think twice when replacing your roof rail weatherstrip. :Twocents:

I have been going through the qtr glass adjustment process....and I know you've been following that topic .

The new weatherstrip is not the same as the old.  I haven't been able to update the other thread yet, because I want to get pics and do it right.

Bottom line is that the new weatherstrip (at least the stuff I got from YO) is NOT shaped the same as the factory stuff.  Out of frustration in trying to get my qtr glass/door glass to line up, I yanked out the repo weatherstrip and put in the original stuff.   Gee........low and behold.....the qtr glass is perfect now, and lines up nice with the door glass, because they lay differently against the weatherstrip.

I was happy to solve my qtr glass problem, pissed at the same time.....another $80 shot, and I'll be re-using my original stuff, which thankfully should be able to get me by.

Maybe other brands of weatherstrip have got their act together, but just watch out.

Watch the other thread, I'll be updating that with all the info.

Thanks for the heads up!   :2thumbs:

The new seals I have are metro supersofts.  My originals are hard as a rock and I get quite the shower running it through the no touch car wash.   :lol:

If those don't work I'll have to find something else but I do need to replace them. 
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

HeavyFuel

With the door and qtr glass both down, look at the rail weatherstrip and see how it transforms to a different shape right where the two glasses would meet, if they were up.

The qtr glass slides right up into a grove , and the door glass lays against the rubber.

Make sure your new weatherstrip does this transition, or I think there will be problems. :Twocents:

HeavyFuel

OK...Hotdaytona clued me in.  I ordered/got sent the wrong weatherstrip for my car.  So my rant about the stuff not fitting is not accurate.  Sorry about that.

Dino

I had to work on Saturday but got lucky and had some down time.  I had my power window regs stashed away at work so when it turned out we had somewaiting to do I fired up one of the big ovens and set it to roughly 150 F.  I media blasted all 4 regs and the aluminum brackets.  I also blasted two of the coils, that's all I have.  I'll have to use two from my manual regs.  The front regs were in primer when I got them but there was still rust so I redid the whole thing.  I used a rust stop primer and rustoleum aluminum finish for the regs.  The coils got rust stop black.  All parts were dried in the oven before taking them home.

I still need to paint the motor housings and reassemble them and unless I can transfer the rollers from my manual regs I'll need a kit for these.

 
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Dino

...
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Dino

...
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Dino

...
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

DC_1

Looks good! Just be careful when you wind up those springs and put on the motors  :2thumbs:

Dino

Quote from: DC_1(formerly Sydmoe) on March 25, 2013, 07:53:29 AM
Looks good! Just be careful when you wind up those springs and put on the motors  :2thumbs:

Ah yes, I need to make sure I don't become a prosthetic patient in my own department!   :lol:

So how many turns do I give that motor plate to put the proper tension on the coils?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

mike337

Dino,

Getting ready to install my rear power windows as you covered in this thread. How many turns did you wind the springs?

Mike

Dino

Quote from: mike337 on December 03, 2022, 04:43:58 PM
Dino,

Getting ready to install my rear power windows as you covered in this thread. How many turns did you wind the springs?

Mike

Hey Mike, I honestly don't remember. It has been years now. But I recall it was straightforward and you will know when to stop.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.