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440-512 Noob

Started by Shieldwf, December 30, 2012, 06:38:44 PM

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Shieldwf

Hello All,
          I joined a little while ago and have been reading a lot. Thank you. From what I've read I bought all these parts and and attached a few pics for discussion. As you can see it's not together yet. Can I have your opinions/changes please? I bought this 69 out of tall grass and if it were any other car it should have been crushed. I can't believe the money I have into it just to get it here!

3.91 posi, TCI Street Fighter and fiberglass front end.
Block is a 1972 bored .030 over. Cooked , Magged, align honed and decked .010.
Bought the 440 Source "512" kit with 11.3:1 static compression
Cam is Hyd Roller;
Grind Number: HR-234/359-2S-12
RPM Power Range: 2600-6600
Duration Intake @.050": 234
Duration Exhaust @.050": 242
Advertised Duration Intake : 296
Advertised Duration Exhaust: 304
Lobe Separation: 112

Edlebrock heads 60925

Edelbrock RPM Intake

Edelbrock 800 CFM Carb

These items are already bought and before I start putting it all together I'd like your thoughts and wisdom.

Thank you,
Randy

skip68

Welcome to the site Randy.    :cheers:   
I'm not sure about that cam but wait and see what the experts have to say.   I'm sure firefighterRon will chime in or Cooter and some others.    :2thumbs:
skip68, A.K.A. Chuck \ 68 Charger 440 auto\ 67 Camaro RS (no 440)       FRANKS & BEANS !!!


Shieldwf


cdr

you are leaving some on the table with that cam! its very small for a 512 cid,but it will be a MEAN torque monster,also FOR ME i dont like edel carbs,,but the carb can always be changed later , looks great for TORQUE  :yesnod:
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

heyoldguy

Is this a street car you intend to run on pump gas? Because, I don't think it will work on pump gas with a cam that short in duration.

Shieldwf

I want a long flat torque curve and yes it needs to run 93 octane. No strip racing just fun for an old man.

Shieldwf

Quote from: heyoldguy on December 30, 2012, 08:10:04 PM
Is this a street car you intend to run on pump gas? Because, I don't think it will work on pump gas with a cam that short in duration.

I'll admit I've never been in this territory but those numbers are a lot higher than I'm used to seeing. I thought my cylinder pressure would be down because they are that high.

Cooter

I'd have something in the 265 @.050 with all that compression. Bleed off some.

Other than that, looks like a good combo. Might need more converter with longer dur. cam though. Depends on what you wanna do with it.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

firefighter3931

The static compression is too high for pump gas, inmo. You would be better off with a dish piston instead of a flat top to get it down into the 10.5:1 range and build it for tight quench ; pistons at zero deck or no more than .005 in the hole.  :yesnod:

If you want to run that cam you've got no choice but to pull some compression out ; assuming the goal is to run on pump gas  :Twocents:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

heyoldguy

Both the last two respondents, Cooter and Ron, are correct. At this time, you have to much compression or to small a camshaft for pump gas.

You will have to lower the compression or make the camshaft longer. The present camshaft closes the intake valve at 44 degrees. To run that much compression you will have to go at least 20 degrees more and close the intake at 64 degrees or more. Notice that the Crane catalog doesn't even list a hydraulic roller that big.

If you go with the 17cc dish and 10.3:1 compression, I would still go with one or two sizes bigger camshaft to help control detonation. 

I run solid rollers for this stuff, so I'm thinking you might be a little more safe with the hydraulic roller timing holding the valve open longer than the solid would. This is because the solid's valve lash is closing the valve sooner with the same timing events, if that makes any sense.


Cooter

Quote from: Shieldwf on December 30, 2012, 06:38:44 PM
Hello All,
I bought this 69 out of tall grass and if it were any other car it should have been crushed. I can't believe the money I have into it just to get it here!


These items are already bought and before I start putting it all together I'd like your thoughts and wisdom.

Thank you,
Randy

No shame in reserecting junk Randy, at least you didn't get taken on EvilBay for some repainted, rusty junk. You at least know what YOU have now. :2thumbs:
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Shieldwf

Thank you Guys! I think I'm going the route of a bigger cam. The bottom end comes as a balanced set so I'd rather not get into new pistons.