snow blower kicking my a$$

[poppa]

Older Toro S-200 ,2cycle,diaphram carb. Has an idle needle and a power needle ,with the power one screwed all the way in it will run/idle (not alot of rpm's) fine. Back the power needle out even a 1/2 turn and it smokes/runs bad. Carb was rebuilt ,it IS CLEAN. New plug. Fresh gas. Any ideas?? Pain in the a$$ to take apart (remove from machine) so trying to get ideas before I have to do this again. Happy New Year !!

[JB400]

Do what my uncle does, drive around and see who threw out their snowblower along side the curb because they needed the plug changed or had bad gas in it.

To better answer your question, are you using gas with no alcohol in it?  2 strokes do not like this new gas at all with alcohol in it.  My lawnmower is the same way.  I have to run 91 octane in it that has no alcohol in it.  Some stores like Wal Mart sell mixed gas in it that does not have the alcohol in it.  It's in a red can, but don't know the brand.

[Mytur Binsdirti]

[440]

Make sure the fuel is fresh and always shake the fuel can before you decanter it into the machine. I'd check compression and then for spark. I'd replace the coil anyways even if you get a good spark, just make sure you set the gap properly.

I had a small engine kick my ass too. Compression felt good, fresh fuel and checked for spark. You'd get a healthy spark and the engine would eventually start but wouldn't rev. Check coil and wtf, no reason it wouldn't run. Ended up replacing coil and it ran like a dream.

Edit: Before I replaced the coil I even pulled the head to check the ring and to check for any scoring of the piston and head. All looked good.

[rt green]

check float level if you have a spec

[poppa]

Thanks for the help. The drawing had the adj screw 'pics' wrong. Seems to work pretty good.

[71 SE3834V]

Both mix screws should be 1 turn out to get you started on a properly rebuilt carb. I say proper because the diaphragm and gasket need to go on the same as the old one. There is a difference between the "F" carb and a "non F" one. Also one area alot of peeps go wrong is not replacing the o rings on the mix screws. If they are dried up or loose on the screw, air will by-pass and it won't run right.
Power/high speed screw is always furthest from the engine on 2 cycles. Snowblowers, trimmers, blowers, don't matter. Idle screw is closest to the engine though 2 cyl snowblowers don't idle. Take a look at your timmer/blower carb. Clean off around the screws and you'll see a H & L (high/low). Easy way to remember.
You do not need to remove the carb from the engine to do a clean out & rebuild.
These old Snowmasters & S200 had points in them, under the flywheel, but I've never replaced a set. They usually aren't used enough to wear a set down however I've seen ones that don't spark at all because they sat around, not used, and rusted up. The cost of replacing along w/other needed work is not worth it on such an old unit.
Generally speaking if it'll fire up easily the internals of the engine should be good but as others have stated use new fuel (less than 30-60 days old) and swap out the plug if it's questionable.

If I can be of any other help let me know. This is what I do for a living.

[poppa]

Thanks for taking the time to post.