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radiator stop leak-any body have luck with it?

Started by andy74, October 11, 2005, 05:58:32 PM

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andy74

i put a bottle of the aluminum type,bars stop leak in the charger on saturday,seems to have cured my heater core problem.any body have any good,bad or indifferent to say?

4cruzin

I wouldn't use it.  Who knows what else it has clogged up!     
Tomorrow is promised to NOBODY . . . .

warlock

Through the years I have used many things. Of All of them they will not last. 6 months, maybe a year. Be sure if you use anything that you turn on the heater so that everything circulates. I really haven't used anything that struck me as great. I have used pepper and it seemed to work as well as anything. The best bet is to take it out and have it fixed.

Steve P.

Quote from: warlock on October 11, 2005, 06:51:02 PM
Through the years I have used many things. Of All of them they will not last. 6 months, maybe a year. Be sure if you use anything that you turn on the heater so that everything circulates. I really haven't used anything that struck me as great. I have used pepper and it seemed to work as well as anything. The best bet is to take it out and have it fixed.


Have it FIXED!! It's not a dog ya know........... ;D
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

Plumcrazy

Stop leak is a temporary fix.  The sooner you replace or have the heater core repaired the better off you will be in the long run.

It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.

cudaken

 :iagree:

Have used it and works for a while, but we all know what need's to be done. Laying on your back and using 4 letter words.

                         Cuda Ken
I am back

d72hemi

I love the stuff! I have used it on 5 cars, and onlly needed a second aplication on a car 2 years later due to the person driving the car did not realize that he lost a fan bet 30 minutes earlier.   :o . I put some Alumi Seal in it and drove that 1980 datsun (380,000+ miles on it) home. It has worked so well for me, I always keep one in my garage. I always use the powder Alumi Seal. I have not used their liquid stuff. My dad once told me about a time that he had to use the stuff to limp a truck with a leaking water pump home. A couple a bottles of it slowed the leak down enough to so that he only need to fill the water up a few times to drive 200 miles.

Wakko

I've got Alumiseal in my car right now...no money for a new radiator yet. 
Ian

'69 Basketcase, bluetooth powered

Boynton 236 F&AM

Chargerguy74

WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

CB

tried an egg, tried the 'leak stop' stuff, nothing worked.
rad is rebuild with new cores now.
1968 Dodge Coronet 500

Charger71

I have used the power radiator seal.  It worked for over three years until I sold the car.  Don't know how long after that.

I am now watching a repair on my 67 Coronet.  I used JB Weld.   It has been great.  No leaks.

Just my 2 cents...

Charger71

andy74

i pulled the heater box and replaced the damn heater core 2 weeks ago.i had a used heater core,but had checked at the local radiator shop last winter when i got it.it was seeping a small amount in the car,not a large leak by any means.my plan is to pull the dash,and replace it with new over the winter,as well as put in my new wiring harness,and some other interior stuff that i have been putting off.so far the stop leak has worked,and i really only need/want it to work for a few more weeks-then it will be time for her winter nap!!

Charger_Fan

I've used Alumaseal twice on different beater cars I've had through the years with seeping radiators & both times, it clogged the heater core...and of course you don't find that out until it's nice-n-cold out. :icon_smile_angry:

Although now days I just fix the friggin' radiator (or heater core), if I were to try another stop leak, it would be the Alumaseal stuff...not that old Bars Leaks crap with little pellets at the bottom of an oil bottle. That stuff looks like it'll instantly clog anything!

The Aquamax...yes, this bike spent 2 nights underwater one weekend. (Not my doing), but it gained the name, and has since become pseudo-famous. :)

Charger71

Yeah,  i had a friend try the stuff with pellets at the bottom.......   His heater core got plugged real bad.    I suggested he use Ex-Lax to free it up.  :stirthepot:

I think most everyone will agree,  fix the problem as soon as you can.   

Charger71

Ghoste

I used it once in a Pontiwreck that we had.  It worked great.  Then I sold it to my brother in law before it started leaking again. 

375instroke

Guess I'll try the Alumaseal.  It's a '98 truck, slow leak in the radiator, and it's about to freeze tonight, so that and antifreeze is better than cracking the block.

johnnyseville

Have used it in the past, hit or miss, depends on location and size.  Did it years ago on a heater core, not even temporary, had to replace.  Try one, maybe you will get lucky.
too many to list!

Chryco Psycho

I believe Irontite is one of the best sealers , I also used Forte in the past it works awesome as well but the real cure is repairing the unit

bull

You guys know this thread is 7 years old, right? :scratchchin: Anyway, stop leaks works great. Got a leak in my Dakota radiator years ago out in the middle of nowhere and used stop leak to fix it. It stopped the leak and jammed up my heater core to the point I'm lucky if it gets above 55-degrees inside the cab in winter.

440

I've had bad luck with Bars-Leak. I used it in my 77 F150 and it clogged the heater core. I had to replace the core which at least wasn't too bad considering.

Never again !


375instroke

I know this was old, but I didn't realize there were such advances in stop leak technology.  It appears to have worked, and the heater is still hot.  How does this stuff clog up a heater?

Cooter

Quote from: 375instroke on December 20, 2012, 03:41:36 AM
I know this was old, but I didn't realize there were such advances in stop leak technology.  It appears to have worked, and the heater is still hot.  How does this stuff clog up a heater?

The passages in a heater core are Three times as small as a radiator. Therefore, it tends to clog them. plus, people do not use "Stop leak" correctly. They put it in the system and LEAVE IT. You don't Leave stop leak in the system forever, you flush out system, put striaght water in it, install stop leak, run till sealed, then drain and flush out system, then fill with coolant.

Everybody just dumps it in the cooling system and leaves it. Then, when warmer weather gets here, they cut the heater OFF causing the stop leak to sit in it over the summer and it takes on the consistency of River bottom mud..
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

resq302

Cooter, any reason why Ford now adds stop leak from the factory?  I was shocked to read this in my owners manual for my 07 F150.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Cooter

Quote from: resq302 on December 20, 2012, 10:25:14 PM
Cooter, any reason why Ford now adds stop leak from the factory?  I was shocked to read this in my owners manual for my 07 F150.

Cause with the EPA on all dealers asses to get more from less (MPG), the manufacturers are forced to develop VERY BAD IDEAS for engines to comply(Eco-boost comes to mind). From about 2004-2012, the Ford truck engines have suffered horribly. Don't even get me started on the class action lawsuit dealing with the TWO PIECE spark plugs that break off in the heads on the 3 Valve 4.6-5.4 engines. Whoever came up with that idea shoulda been fired, and made to replace all the plugs in those engines for life. Stupid.

I'm not surprized at all Ford says that. BTW: Don't read too much into your owners manual. They are all basically misleading as hell. Um, yeah, I'll be sure and change my engine oil every 8500 miles. So when it blows the engine due to oil breakdown, I'll be sure to come back and buy another one....
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

resq302

My oil change recommendation says 5000 for dusty/dirty and towing conditions.  I always use the "worst case scenario" and change the fluids at that or before point.  My oil I grew up to changing it every 3000 miles.  I figure that is the blood supply for the engine.  What is it going to hurt if I change it sooner rather than later!  So I am recycling oil that is still somewhat good.  Oh well.   I know too well about the dumb arse two piece design.  Luckily I have never had to change it out due to warranty stuff and whatever but I am sure that the new plugs Ford put in are still the 1 piece motorcraft plugs.   :eek2:
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto