Hi, intro/ alternator issues =D

[Tj_saxon]

Ok, so I tested it and got a little above 12 on both.

[Tj_saxon]

Ok, so I tested it and got a little above 12 on both.

12.32-12.11 they were both kinda steady on that. Sometimes it would drop to 10 and some change but I'm pretty sure that was my hands shacking in this cold GA weather XP

Does this mean the wiring from my alternator is good?

[Tj_saxon]

I'm gonna check the starter tonight since I renctly replaced it. Everyone is telling me to check it.

[johnatkens]

Ok, so I tested it and got a little above 12 on both.

12.32-12.11 they were both kinda steady on that. Sometimes it would drop to 10 and some change but I'm pretty sure that was my hands shacking in this cold GA weather XP

Does this mean the wiring from my alternator is good?

This means that the field circuit is not open and the regulator is getting the signal from the ignition. Confirm that you have 12v at the large wire on the alternator (marked B on the diagram) then the next step is to connect the voltmeter across the batt terminals start the engine and ground the wire from the alternator at the regulator with the regulator disconnected, looking at the diagram it is the wire from the alt to the reg marked F NOT the dark blue wire from the ballast resistor. When this wire is grounded you are testing the alternator and all the wiring bypassing the regulator. the voltage and amperage should both increase. If it does the the alternator and wiring are all ok which only leaves the regulator, if it does not charge then the alternator is bad.

Cold in GA ? come on up to Wi, I see Valdosta is only going to get to 69 today BRRR lol

[Tj_saxon]

Ok, so I tested it and got a little above 12 on both.

12.32-12.11 they were both kinda steady on that. Sometimes it would drop to 10 and some change but I'm pretty sure that was my hands shacking in this cold GA weather XP

Does this mean the wiring from my alternator is good?

This means that the field circuit is not open and the regulator is getting the signal from the ignition. Confirm that you have 12v at the large wire on the alternator (marked B on the diagram) then the next step is to connect the voltmeter across the batt terminals start the engine and ground the wire from the alternator at the regulator with the regulator disconnected, looking at the diagram it is the wire from the alt to the reg marked F NOT the dark blue wire from the ballast resistor. When this wire is grounded you are testing the alternator and all the wiring bypassing the regulator. the voltage and amperage should both increase. If it does the the alternator and wiring are all ok which only leaves the regulator, if it does not charge then the alternator is bad.

Cold in GA ? come on up to Wi, I see Valdosta is only going to get to 69 today BRRR lol

Ok I will have to do this tonight.

Also spend a summer in GA and you will understand why 69 is so cold for us XP.

[Tj_saxon]

Ok I am about to perform the above test. While I am getting ready to I must ask if the carb solenoid is not grounded would it cause the problem of not charging. The connector was just taped up and hanging there. The wire is pretty ate up so I am going to have to do some handy man work on it. Also the thing to the far left on the fire wall with five prongs ( Ignition control?) is not plugged up...and the wires to the thing that plug into it are ate up. But my car still starts...I believe its due to the after market magnet thing on the front of my car. I have to flip a switch to get my car to start if that helps any. Also I have an after market coil which I did not install. Would that explain all the brown cut wire behind the distributor? If so is it safe to clip these and tape them some where away from sight? I may take pictures and try and figure out how to post them. Until then any responses will be great! I will have my laptop outside with me to look at the wiring diagram that was so nicely posted here =D hope to hear from you guys soon.

[lisiecki1]

Ok I am about to perform the above test. While I am getting ready to I must ask if the carb solenoid is not grounded would it cause the problem of not charging. The connector was just taped up and hanging there. The wire is pretty ate up so I am going to have to do some handy man work on it. Also the thing to the far left on the fire wall with five prongs ( Ignition control?) is not plugged up...and the wires to the thing that plug into it are ate up. But my car still starts...I believe its due to the after market magnet thing on the front of my car. I have to flip a switch to get my car to start if that helps any. Also I have an after market coil which I did not install. Would that explain all the brown cut wire behind the distributor? If so is it safe to clip these and tape them some where away from sight? I may take pictures and try and figure out how to post them. Until then any responses will be great! I will have my laptop outside with me to look at the wiring diagram that was so nicely posted here =D hope to hear from you guys soon.

Damn.  Where are you located?  Maybe a close by member could come take a look....sounds like someone butchered the shit out of that poor car.

[Tj_saxon]

Ok I am about to perform the above test. While I am getting ready to I must ask if the carb solenoid is not grounded would it cause the problem of not charging. The connector was just taped up and hanging there. The wire is pretty ate up so I am going to have to do some handy man work on it. Also the thing to the far left on the fire wall with five prongs ( Ignition control?) is not plugged up...and the wires to the thing that plug into it are ate up. But my car still starts...I believe its due to the after market magnet thing on the front of my car. I have to flip a switch to get my car to start if that helps any. Also I have an after market coil which I did not install. Would that explain all the brown cut wire behind the distributor? If so is it safe to clip these and tape them some where away from sight? I may take pictures and try and figure out how to post them. Until then any responses will be great! I will have my laptop outside with me to look at the wiring diagram that was so nicely posted here =D hope to hear from you guys soon.

Damn.  Where are you located?  Maybe a close by member could come take a look....sounds like someone butchered the shit out of that poor car.

Augusta GA. is one of the closer big cities to me. It's real bad. I am going to ground that carb solenoid (If that even what that is) and see if it helps with the charging issue.

[lisiecki1]

Ok I am about to perform the above test. While I am getting ready to I must ask if the carb solenoid is not grounded would it cause the problem of not charging. The connector was just taped up and hanging there. The wire is pretty ate up so I am going to have to do some handy man work on it. Also the thing to the far left on the fire wall with five prongs ( Ignition control?) is not plugged up...and the wires to the thing that plug into it are ate up. But my car still starts...I believe its due to the after market magnet thing on the front of my car. I have to flip a switch to get my car to start if that helps any. Also I have an after market coil which I did not install. Would that explain all the brown cut wire behind the distributor? If so is it safe to clip these and tape them some where away from sight? I may take pictures and try and figure out how to post them. Until then any responses will be great! I will have my laptop outside with me to look at the wiring diagram that was so nicely posted here =D hope to hear from you guys soon.

Damn.  Where are you located?  Maybe a close by member could come take a look....sounds like someone butchered the shit out of that poor car.

Augusta GA. is one of the closer big cities to me. It's real bad. I am going to ground that carb solenoid (If that even what that is) and see if it helps with the charging issue.

I'm not sure what solenoid you're talking about.....picture?

[Tj_saxon]

Ok I am about to perform the above test. While I am getting ready to I must ask if the carb solenoid is not grounded would it cause the problem of not charging. The connector was just taped up and hanging there. The wire is pretty ate up so I am going to have to do some handy man work on it. Also the thing to the far left on the fire wall with five prongs ( Ignition control?) is not plugged up...and the wires to the thing that plug into it are ate up. But my car still starts...I believe its due to the after market magnet thing on the front of my car. I have to flip a switch to get my car to start if that helps any. Also I have an after market coil which I did not install. Would that explain all the brown cut wire behind the distributor? If so is it safe to clip these and tape them some where away from sight? I may take pictures and try and figure out how to post them. Until then any responses will be great! I will have my laptop outside with me to look at the wiring diagram that was so nicely posted here =D hope to hear from you guys soon.

Damn.  Where are you located?  Maybe a close by member could come take a look....sounds like someone butchered the shit out of that poor car.

Augusta GA. is one of the closer big cities to me. It's real bad. I am going to ground that carb solenoid (If that even what that is) and see if it helps with the charging issue.

I'm not sure what solenoid you're talking about.....picture?

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ChallengerA.JPG

If you look at the bottom F off the alternator and follow it down and left its that thing. I'm not sure that's even what this is but its located about halfway down the valve cover and it was just tapped up sitting there. Its a little connector looking thing with a metal hook on the end. I will get pictures of everything.

[johnatkens]

Dont ground the carb sol wire!

[Tj_saxon]

Dont ground the carb sol wire!

Ok, why not? Where is it supposed to connect? Why was it just taped up?

[FLG]

Just order a new harness and call it a day.

[lisiecki1]

Dont ground the carb sol wire!

Ok, why not? Where is it supposed to connect? Why was it just taped up?

[lisiecki1]

Just order a new harness and call it a day.

I second this.  I don't think fiddling with the buchered wiring is worth what could possibly happen to the car.

[johnatkens]

Dont ground the carb sol wire!

Ok, why not? Where is it supposed to connect? Why was it just taped up?

The wire to the carb sol is on the same circuit as the 12 ign signal to the reg from the ballast resistor, grounding it would be a direct short.

[Tj_saxon]

Just order a new harness and call it a day.

Did, waiting on it to come in. Sadly this car is my dd =( so I have to get this problem fixed until the harness comes in.

[Tj_saxon]

Just order a new harness and call it a day.

I second this.  I don't think fiddling with the buchered wiring is worth what could possibly happen to the car.

Never thought of it that way.

[Tj_saxon]

Dont ground the carb sol wire!

Ok, why not? Where is it supposed to connect? Why was it just taped up?

The wire to the carb sol is on the same circuit as the 12 ign signal to the reg from the ballast resistor, grounding it would be a direct short.

Hm, any ideas as to why it wouldn't be plugged up?

[Tj_saxon]

Ok, so I tested it and got a little above 12 on both.

12.32-12.11 they were both kinda steady on that. Sometimes it would drop to 10 and some change but I'm pretty sure that was my hands shacking in this cold GA weather XP

Does this mean the wiring from my alternator is good?

This means that the field circuit is not open and the regulator is getting the signal from the ignition. Confirm that you have 12v at the large wire on the alternator (marked B on the diagram) then the next step is to connect the voltmeter across the batt terminals start the engine and ground the wire from the alternator at the regulator with the regulator disconnected, looking at the diagram it is the wire from the alt to the reg marked F NOT the dark blue wire from the ballast resistor. When this wire is grounded you are testing the alternator and all the wiring bypassing the regulator. the voltage and amperage should both increase. If it does the the alternator and wiring are all ok which only leaves the regulator, if it does not charge then the alternator is bad.

Cold in GA ? come on up to Wi, I see Valdosta is only going to get to 69 today BRRR lol

I have like 16.9 at the alternator..and thats only for a split second. Then the meter just says one... Also with the car running and the voltmeter still plugged up and everything off (headlights and what not) the battery is putting out 12.3

[lisiecki1]

Ok, so I tested it and got a little above 12 on both.

12.32-12.11 they were both kinda steady on that. Sometimes it would drop to 10 and some change but I'm pretty sure that was my hands shacking in this cold GA weather XP

Does this mean the wiring from my alternator is good?

This means that the field circuit is not open and the regulator is getting the signal from the ignition. Confirm that you have 12v at the large wire on the alternator (marked B on the diagram) then the next step is to connect the voltmeter across the batt terminals start the engine and ground the wire from the alternator at the regulator with the regulator disconnected, looking at the diagram it is the wire from the alt to the reg marked F NOT the dark blue wire from the ballast resistor. When this wire is grounded you are testing the alternator and all the wiring bypassing the regulator. the voltage and amperage should both increase. If it does the the alternator and wiring are all ok which only leaves the regulator, if it does not charge then the alternator is bad.

Cold in GA ? come on up to Wi, I see Valdosta is only going to get to 69 today BRRR lol

I have like 16.9 at the alternator..and thats only for a split second. Then the meter just says one... Also with the car running and the voltmeter still plugged up and everything off (headlights and what not) the battery is putting out 12.3

You could try chasing the wiring according to the diagram I posted earlier....you may find your problem.

[Tj_saxon]

Ok, so I tested it and got a little above 12 on both.

12.32-12.11 they were both kinda steady on that. Sometimes it would drop to 10 and some change but I'm pretty sure that was my hands shacking in this cold GA weather XP

Does this mean the wiring from my alternator is good?

Yea I am about to take everything out the engine bay and look over it all. Any idea why there would be a wire running from my driver side low beam all the way to the trunk and then tied in with the connector to the tail lights??? lol. Ez wiring should hopefully be here soon. I can't wait lol.

This means that the field circuit is not open and the regulator is getting the signal from the ignition. Confirm that you have 12v at the large wire on the alternator (marked B on the diagram) then the next step is to connect the voltmeter across the batt terminals start the engine and ground the wire from the alternator at the regulator with the regulator disconnected, looking at the diagram it is the wire from the alt to the reg marked F NOT the dark blue wire from the ballast resistor. When this wire is grounded you are testing the alternator and all the wiring bypassing the regulator. the voltage and amperage should both increase. If it does the the alternator and wiring are all ok which only leaves the regulator, if it does not charge then the alternator is bad.

Cold in GA ? come on up to Wi, I see Valdosta is only going to get to 69 today BRRR lol

I have like 16.9 at the alternator..and thats only for a split second. Then the meter just says one... Also with the car running and the voltmeter still plugged up and everything off (headlights and what not) the battery is putting out 12.3

You could try chasing the wiring according to the diagram I posted earlier....you may find your problem.

[Tj_saxon]

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73CoronetChargerB.JPG

In this diagram what is the dashed line that connects the two dashed circles?

[lisiecki1]

What you're looking at is two sides of the same plug.  The dashed lines indicate that "this plugs into this".

[Tj_saxon]

I noticed my reply didn't show up. I am thinking of taking all the wiring out of the engine bay. Any suggestions on how to do this?

Also any reason why there is a red wire running from my driver side low beam all the way to the trunk and tied into the connector back there???

And ok thanks. I just saw it and was wondering what it was.