Hi, intro/ alternator issues =D

[Tj_saxon]

Hello everyone. My name is T.J. Saxon. I recently got a 73 auto 318 charger. It is a decently clean car but deff. needs a lot of tlc. I have already replaced the water pump, fuel pump, put a fuel filter on, starter, dizzy, and battery. The wiring in this car has been ABUSED to say the least bit. I keep finding random cut wires just hanging...
This is under the dash AND in the engine bay. ANY WHO that was my intro on to the good stuff. The alternator used to randomly charge super high (so high that the needle would disappear to the right side) and then something crazy happened (to be honest not sure what or why)  and this puff of smoke came through the vents. The headlights didn't work any more and little did I know neither did anything else on the inside. I could smell it was electrical so pulled over. The wire that say fusible link on it or w/e it says I cant really remember had completely just burnt through itself. So I had to cut out a section and I put a 20 amp fuse in the line. Went to start the car and then something on the right side on the firewall started smoking. Not sure what it was. Turned the car off searched and couldn't find anything. Turned it back on and no smoke...But now my alternator gauge is reading below the discharge line. The next day the car wouldn't start. Went to the parts store and got a alternator and battery. Replaced them, went driving and it's still reading that its discharging. If I turn my brights on it gets even closer to the d. Like reallly close. Any ideas on what it could be. I will post tomorrow whether or not the car even starts again in the morning or not.

[FLG]

Hi,

Yep plenty of ideas.

Dont drive the car, dont start the car, disconnect the battery.

Now proceed to inspect all the wiring from the car and go over it with a fine tooth comb.

Clean and inspect all the firewall connections (probably going to find something burnt)

Also at this point id bypass the amp meter entirely (disconnect leads going to it, connect them together and make sure there well isolated as those are both positive)

Also replace the alternator.

Sorry but this is what youll need to do, there is no such thing as something electrical smoking and then still working. Once it goes up its gone. And unless you want a scrap pile of burnt charger, id make sure EVERYTHING is perfect.

[Tj_saxon]

Luckily I have the next two days off. I suppose I will be spending the going through and through the wiring. Thank you very much =]


Also I have already replaced my alternator and battery. Where is the alternator grounded? Could it have possibly been the ground wire burning ( I assume ground wire since smoke was so close to firewall) or would it even do anything without a ground wire?

[Tj_saxon]

One more thing. I hate to make so many responses, I apologize in advance. I was looking at the alternator and the thick wire that connects to the big post on the alternator is pretty frayed. Could this be my issue??? I wish the wiring on this car wasn't so butchered but when I saw it I couldn't turn it down...it brought out the 14 y.o. muscle car kid in me lol.

New update: After playing with the wires I have repaired all loose wires I can find and put a new connector on the alt. Connection. The car is at the thick line between charge and discharge at idle but when I turn anything on like my lights it goes into discharge..is this normal? I have never had a car with an alt gauge. Also when I turn my brights on interior lights get pretty dim and it goes deep into discharge. Almost on the d.

[Cooter]

.

New update: After playing with the wires I have repaired all loose wires I can find and put a new connector on the alt. Connection. The car is at the thick line between charge and discharge at idle but when I turn anything on like my lights it goes into discharge..is this normal? I have never had a car with an alt gauge. Also when I turn my brights on interior lights get pretty dim and it goes deep into discharge. Almost on the d.

Was this at idle? Chrysler alt. discharge at idle ubtil you rev engine slightly. This is the main reason I upgrade to a GM one wire. Best way to check if charging is with Volt meter. Should be somewhere round 13.8-14.2 Volts with EVERYTHING on, and around 1500 RPM.

Make SURE you ahve no more "Smoke tests" going on though. You haven't seen heartache till you've watched one of these things burn to the ground.

[Tj_saxon]

Just got back from the parts store. I had lost my volt meter. About to test that. So far so good with no smoke. There were so many random wire ends every where it's impossible for me to tell which did what. So as of right now I have all the tips taped off. I will get back when I get the voltage.

[Tj_saxon]

Ok so the cheap multi meter I bought doesn't even work...so I have to get another tomorrow/today. I took it for a test drive for about an hour and still no smoke or anything but the alternator is still draining the battery. I am going to check over the little bit of wiring I know to check but is there any alternator wiring diagrams that are pretty simple and easy to read? I am thinking I may have to re wire the whole damn thing. ALSO in new good news now my blinkers stopped working. I checked the fuses to find the bottom right was blown. I replaced it and they still don't work. But my hazards do...any ideas on anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to every one that has tried to help and that may help =D.

ALSO! I just realized what that little box on the wall was. A regulator for the alternator. Thats where some of the smoke came from one of the times I started it. Could this have gone bad? How do I test to see if it did and what does it do?

[MrSnicks]

I think the "right side smoking" might have been your voltage regulator frying. Silver box on the firewall. It's about $15.00 bucks at a parts store. New alternator and new battery won't charge unless the voltage regulator is good.



Patrick

[W4ATL]

Yep...replace the voltage regulator. Make sure all the connections are wired right according to your service manual schematic for the engine bay. Label the wires you see "hanging" or if you remove them or if the wiring seems really wrong to you. Then wire it back like the service manual shows. I had to do this to my Charger since the ignition wiring was all screwed up.

[Tj_saxon]

Ok guys, I'll pick one up today. Do any of you know if anyone has used the painless wiring kit or any other aftermarket wiring kit. I wish I knew how to upload pictures to show you guys how bad this stuff was. There is seriously wires just hanging everywhere and sadly a lot of them are just read speaker wire someone has spliced in then ripped out??? And all kinds of plugs not plugged in just hanging around. I get a head ache just looking at it. It makes no sense to abuse cars like that.

[lisiecki1]

Ok guys, I'll pick one up today. Do any of you know if anyone has used the painless wiring kit or any other aftermarket wiring kit. I wish I knew how to upload pictures to show you guys how bad this stuff was. There is seriously wires just hanging everywhere and sadly a lot of them are just read speaker wire someone has spliced in then ripped out??? And all kinds of plugs not plugged in just hanging around. I get a head ache just looking at it. It makes no sense to abuse cars like that.

I rewired mine with a kit similar to a painless kit.  Went really easy.  Don't think I could've done it without having the original FSM though.  Subsequently, all of the wiring is out of the car at the moment because I'm restoring the entire car now.  If it wasn't for that I'd send you pics.

If you have money to spend you can get all new factory-correct wiring for the whole car from year one, but be prepared to pay for it until year four thousand.

[Tj_saxon]

How long did it take you to wire it?

[FLG]

Check out Bill Evans, he does great wiring and much better prices and speed then yearone

[Tj_saxon]

Check out Bill Evans, he does great wiring and much better prices and speed then yearone

Will do! Is he someone on the forums or is that a business? Thank you all so much for all the help btw.

[FLG]

http://www.evanswiring.com/

[johnatkens]

Your car has an isolated field alternator. 12 v is applied to one brush when the key is on, the other brush goes to the regulator which grounds it to start charging and takes away the ground to control voltage. Your original overcharging problem could be caused by a regulator failure, the wire from the alternator being grounded or the field grounded inside the alternator which would cause the alternator to go to max output and system voltage to go off the scale resulting in blown fuses and letting the smoke out of various components.

Step one should be to get the charging system working again, you should have battery (12v) on both terminals of the regulator connector when disconnected with the key on engine not running. Let me know the results for the next step. Also note the regulator must be grounded to work correctly.

Once the charging system is working then repairs to other systems caused by overvoltage can be tackled. I posted a link for wiring on a 73 Challenger, charging system is the same for all models in 73.

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=73+dodge+wiring&hl=en&sa=X&tbo=d&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&biw=1024&bih=674&tbm=isch&tbnid=G1DW9ROD-vEl1M:&imgrefurl=http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php%3Ftopic%3D71666.0&docid=YQZOEZUVWRfiFM&imgurl=http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ChallengerA.JPG&w=1138&h=1591&ei=Xe3JUJ6LKcOqqQHF3IHADg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=121&vpy=102&dur=3478&hovh=266&hovw=190&tx=121&ty=144&sig=118438033345467810221&page=1&tbnh=165&tbnw=118&start=0&ndsp=22&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:0,i:88

[lisiecki1]

How long did it take you to wire it?

Total, around 8 hours I believe.  It was a lot easier than I expected with everything being labeled and such.

[Tj_saxon]

Your car has an isolated field alternator. 12 v is applied to one brush when the key is on, the other brush goes to the regulator which grounds it to start charging and takes away the ground to control voltage. Your original overcharging problem could be caused by a regulator failure, the wire from the alternator being grounded or the field grounded inside the alternator which would cause the alternator to go to max output and system voltage to go off the scale resulting in blown fuses and letting the smoke out of various components.

Step one should be to get the charging system working again, you should have battery (12v) on both terminals of the regulator connector when disconnected with the key on engine not running. Let me know the results for the next step. Also note the regulator must be grounded to work correctly.

Once the charging system is working then repairs to other systems caused by overvoltage can be tackled. I posted a link for wiring on a 73 Challenger, charging system is the same for all models in 73.

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=73+dodge+wiring&hl=en&sa=X&tbo=d&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&biw=1024&bih=674&tbm=isch&tbnid=G1DW9ROD-vEl1M:&imgrefurl=http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php%3Ftopic%3D71666.0&docid=YQZOEZUVWRfiFM&imgurl=http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ChallengerA.JPG&w=1138&h=1591&ei=Xe3JUJ6LKcOqqQHF3IHADg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=121&vpy=102&dur=3478&hovh=266&hovw=190&tx=121&ty=144&sig=118438033345467810221&page=1&tbnh=165&tbnw=118&start=0&ndsp=22&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:0,i:88

So what I need to do is buy another multimeter and put it on the battery with the key in the on position but the motor not running? I replaced the regulator and the headlights are still super discharging the battery....It's getting slightly annoying lol.

[Tj_saxon]

I was looking at this wiring.

http://imageshack.us/f/23/wiring31.jpg/

[johnatkens]

.[/quote]

So what I need to do is buy another multimeter and put it on the battery with the key in the on position but the motor not running? I replaced the regulator and the headlights are still super discharging the battery....It's getting slightly annoying lol.
[/quote]

A multimeter is preferred but a simple 12v test light will suffice for this check. Disconnect the two wire triangular shaped plug at the voltage regulator on the firewall, turn the key on and you should have 12v or reasonably bright test light at both terminals of the connector with the key on and engine not running. Connect the black wire from the voltmeter or clip from test light to a good ground (neg batt term is ideal) and see if you have voltage at both terminals for the regulator.
The diagram you just posted is not complete.

If you want to see frustrating spend all day working on a Harley like I just did, I would much rather be fixing your car 

[Tj_saxon]

.

So what I need to do is buy another multimeter and put it on the battery with the key in the on position but the motor not running? I replaced the regulator and the headlights are still super discharging the battery....It's getting slightly annoying lol.
[/quote]

A multimeter is preferred but a simple 12v test light will suffice for this check. Disconnect the two wire triangular shaped plug at the voltage regulator on the firewall, turn the key on and you should have 12v or reasonably bright test light at both terminals of the connector with the key on and engine not running. Connect the black wire from the voltmeter or clip from test light to a good ground (neg batt term is ideal) and see if you have voltage at both terminals for the regulator.
The diagram you just posted is not complete.

If you want to see frustrating spend all day working on a Harley like I just did, I would much rather be fixing your car 
[/quote]

Lol, come on and fix it please lol. Ok ill pick up a multimeter tonight after work again and do this test.

[Tj_saxon]

How long did it take you to wire it?

Total, around 8 hours I believe.  It was a lot easier than I expected with everything being labeled and such.

That's not bad at all.

[Tj_saxon]

Hate to triple post but where is the reguulator supposed to bolt up...the old one had one bolt holding it in place and I managed to get this one in with two bolts by putting it in upside down and crooked lol. I sanded the paint off the firewall were I mounted it to help ground it but would that be enough?

[johnatkens]

Should be a good enough ground for the regulator as thats what the factory did, if in doubt run a ground wire to the neg batt term. But first do the test I described and let me know the results. One step at a time will resolve your issues.

[Tj_saxon]

Should be a good enough ground for the regulator as thats what the factory did, if in doubt run a ground wire to the neg batt term. But first do the test I described and let me know the results. One step at a time will resolve your issues.

Ok, will do. Thank you every one for all the help =)

[Tj_saxon]

Ok, so I tested it and got a little above 12 on both.

[Tj_saxon]

Ok, so I tested it and got a little above 12 on both.

12.32-12.11 they were both kinda steady on that. Sometimes it would drop to 10 and some change but I'm pretty sure that was my hands shacking in this cold GA weather XP

Does this mean the wiring from my alternator is good?

[Tj_saxon]

I'm gonna check the starter tonight since I renctly replaced it. Everyone is telling me to check it.

[johnatkens]

Ok, so I tested it and got a little above 12 on both.

12.32-12.11 they were both kinda steady on that. Sometimes it would drop to 10 and some change but I'm pretty sure that was my hands shacking in this cold GA weather XP

Does this mean the wiring from my alternator is good?

This means that the field circuit is not open and the regulator is getting the signal from the ignition. Confirm that you have 12v at the large wire on the alternator (marked B on the diagram) then the next step is to connect the voltmeter across the batt terminals start the engine and ground the wire from the alternator at the regulator with the regulator disconnected, looking at the diagram it is the wire from the alt to the reg marked F NOT the dark blue wire from the ballast resistor. When this wire is grounded you are testing the alternator and all the wiring bypassing the regulator. the voltage and amperage should both increase. If it does the the alternator and wiring are all ok which only leaves the regulator, if it does not charge then the alternator is bad.

Cold in GA ? come on up to Wi, I see Valdosta is only going to get to 69 today BRRR lol

[Tj_saxon]

Ok, so I tested it and got a little above 12 on both.

12.32-12.11 they were both kinda steady on that. Sometimes it would drop to 10 and some change but I'm pretty sure that was my hands shacking in this cold GA weather XP

Does this mean the wiring from my alternator is good?

This means that the field circuit is not open and the regulator is getting the signal from the ignition. Confirm that you have 12v at the large wire on the alternator (marked B on the diagram) then the next step is to connect the voltmeter across the batt terminals start the engine and ground the wire from the alternator at the regulator with the regulator disconnected, looking at the diagram it is the wire from the alt to the reg marked F NOT the dark blue wire from the ballast resistor. When this wire is grounded you are testing the alternator and all the wiring bypassing the regulator. the voltage and amperage should both increase. If it does the the alternator and wiring are all ok which only leaves the regulator, if it does not charge then the alternator is bad.

Cold in GA ? come on up to Wi, I see Valdosta is only going to get to 69 today BRRR lol

Ok I will have to do this tonight.

Also spend a summer in GA and you will understand why 69 is so cold for us XP.

[Tj_saxon]

Ok I am about to perform the above test. While I am getting ready to I must ask if the carb solenoid is not grounded would it cause the problem of not charging. The connector was just taped up and hanging there. The wire is pretty ate up so I am going to have to do some handy man work on it. Also the thing to the far left on the fire wall with five prongs ( Ignition control?) is not plugged up...and the wires to the thing that plug into it are ate up. But my car still starts...I believe its due to the after market magnet thing on the front of my car. I have to flip a switch to get my car to start if that helps any. Also I have an after market coil which I did not install. Would that explain all the brown cut wire behind the distributor? If so is it safe to clip these and tape them some where away from sight? I may take pictures and try and figure out how to post them. Until then any responses will be great! I will have my laptop outside with me to look at the wiring diagram that was so nicely posted here =D hope to hear from you guys soon.

[lisiecki1]

Ok I am about to perform the above test. While I am getting ready to I must ask if the carb solenoid is not grounded would it cause the problem of not charging. The connector was just taped up and hanging there. The wire is pretty ate up so I am going to have to do some handy man work on it. Also the thing to the far left on the fire wall with five prongs ( Ignition control?) is not plugged up...and the wires to the thing that plug into it are ate up. But my car still starts...I believe its due to the after market magnet thing on the front of my car. I have to flip a switch to get my car to start if that helps any. Also I have an after market coil which I did not install. Would that explain all the brown cut wire behind the distributor? If so is it safe to clip these and tape them some where away from sight? I may take pictures and try and figure out how to post them. Until then any responses will be great! I will have my laptop outside with me to look at the wiring diagram that was so nicely posted here =D hope to hear from you guys soon.

Damn.  Where are you located?  Maybe a close by member could come take a look....sounds like someone butchered the shit out of that poor car.

[Tj_saxon]

Ok I am about to perform the above test. While I am getting ready to I must ask if the carb solenoid is not grounded would it cause the problem of not charging. The connector was just taped up and hanging there. The wire is pretty ate up so I am going to have to do some handy man work on it. Also the thing to the far left on the fire wall with five prongs ( Ignition control?) is not plugged up...and the wires to the thing that plug into it are ate up. But my car still starts...I believe its due to the after market magnet thing on the front of my car. I have to flip a switch to get my car to start if that helps any. Also I have an after market coil which I did not install. Would that explain all the brown cut wire behind the distributor? If so is it safe to clip these and tape them some where away from sight? I may take pictures and try and figure out how to post them. Until then any responses will be great! I will have my laptop outside with me to look at the wiring diagram that was so nicely posted here =D hope to hear from you guys soon.

Damn.  Where are you located?  Maybe a close by member could come take a look....sounds like someone butchered the shit out of that poor car.

Augusta GA. is one of the closer big cities to me. It's real bad. I am going to ground that carb solenoid (If that even what that is) and see if it helps with the charging issue.

[lisiecki1]

Ok I am about to perform the above test. While I am getting ready to I must ask if the carb solenoid is not grounded would it cause the problem of not charging. The connector was just taped up and hanging there. The wire is pretty ate up so I am going to have to do some handy man work on it. Also the thing to the far left on the fire wall with five prongs ( Ignition control?) is not plugged up...and the wires to the thing that plug into it are ate up. But my car still starts...I believe its due to the after market magnet thing on the front of my car. I have to flip a switch to get my car to start if that helps any. Also I have an after market coil which I did not install. Would that explain all the brown cut wire behind the distributor? If so is it safe to clip these and tape them some where away from sight? I may take pictures and try and figure out how to post them. Until then any responses will be great! I will have my laptop outside with me to look at the wiring diagram that was so nicely posted here =D hope to hear from you guys soon.

Damn.  Where are you located?  Maybe a close by member could come take a look....sounds like someone butchered the shit out of that poor car.

Augusta GA. is one of the closer big cities to me. It's real bad. I am going to ground that carb solenoid (If that even what that is) and see if it helps with the charging issue.

I'm not sure what solenoid you're talking about.....picture?

[Tj_saxon]

Ok I am about to perform the above test. While I am getting ready to I must ask if the carb solenoid is not grounded would it cause the problem of not charging. The connector was just taped up and hanging there. The wire is pretty ate up so I am going to have to do some handy man work on it. Also the thing to the far left on the fire wall with five prongs ( Ignition control?) is not plugged up...and the wires to the thing that plug into it are ate up. But my car still starts...I believe its due to the after market magnet thing on the front of my car. I have to flip a switch to get my car to start if that helps any. Also I have an after market coil which I did not install. Would that explain all the brown cut wire behind the distributor? If so is it safe to clip these and tape them some where away from sight? I may take pictures and try and figure out how to post them. Until then any responses will be great! I will have my laptop outside with me to look at the wiring diagram that was so nicely posted here =D hope to hear from you guys soon.

Damn.  Where are you located?  Maybe a close by member could come take a look....sounds like someone butchered the shit out of that poor car.

Augusta GA. is one of the closer big cities to me. It's real bad. I am going to ground that carb solenoid (If that even what that is) and see if it helps with the charging issue.

I'm not sure what solenoid you're talking about.....picture?

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ChallengerA.JPG

If you look at the bottom F off the alternator and follow it down and left its that thing. I'm not sure that's even what this is but its located about halfway down the valve cover and it was just tapped up sitting there. Its a little connector looking thing with a metal hook on the end. I will get pictures of everything.

[johnatkens]

Dont ground the carb sol wire!

[Tj_saxon]

Dont ground the carb sol wire!

Ok, why not? Where is it supposed to connect? Why was it just taped up?

[FLG]

Just order a new harness and call it a day.

[lisiecki1]

Dont ground the carb sol wire!

Ok, why not? Where is it supposed to connect? Why was it just taped up?

[lisiecki1]

Just order a new harness and call it a day.

I second this.  I don't think fiddling with the buchered wiring is worth what could possibly happen to the car.

[johnatkens]

Dont ground the carb sol wire!

Ok, why not? Where is it supposed to connect? Why was it just taped up?

The wire to the carb sol is on the same circuit as the 12 ign signal to the reg from the ballast resistor, grounding it would be a direct short.

[Tj_saxon]

Just order a new harness and call it a day.

Did, waiting on it to come in. Sadly this car is my dd =( so I have to get this problem fixed until the harness comes in.

[Tj_saxon]

Just order a new harness and call it a day.

I second this.  I don't think fiddling with the buchered wiring is worth what could possibly happen to the car.

Never thought of it that way.

[Tj_saxon]

Dont ground the carb sol wire!

Ok, why not? Where is it supposed to connect? Why was it just taped up?

The wire to the carb sol is on the same circuit as the 12 ign signal to the reg from the ballast resistor, grounding it would be a direct short.

Hm, any ideas as to why it wouldn't be plugged up?

[Tj_saxon]

Ok, so I tested it and got a little above 12 on both.

12.32-12.11 they were both kinda steady on that. Sometimes it would drop to 10 and some change but I'm pretty sure that was my hands shacking in this cold GA weather XP

Does this mean the wiring from my alternator is good?

This means that the field circuit is not open and the regulator is getting the signal from the ignition. Confirm that you have 12v at the large wire on the alternator (marked B on the diagram) then the next step is to connect the voltmeter across the batt terminals start the engine and ground the wire from the alternator at the regulator with the regulator disconnected, looking at the diagram it is the wire from the alt to the reg marked F NOT the dark blue wire from the ballast resistor. When this wire is grounded you are testing the alternator and all the wiring bypassing the regulator. the voltage and amperage should both increase. If it does the the alternator and wiring are all ok which only leaves the regulator, if it does not charge then the alternator is bad.

Cold in GA ? come on up to Wi, I see Valdosta is only going to get to 69 today BRRR lol

I have like 16.9 at the alternator..and thats only for a split second. Then the meter just says one... Also with the car running and the voltmeter still plugged up and everything off (headlights and what not) the battery is putting out 12.3

[lisiecki1]

Ok, so I tested it and got a little above 12 on both.

12.32-12.11 they were both kinda steady on that. Sometimes it would drop to 10 and some change but I'm pretty sure that was my hands shacking in this cold GA weather XP

Does this mean the wiring from my alternator is good?

This means that the field circuit is not open and the regulator is getting the signal from the ignition. Confirm that you have 12v at the large wire on the alternator (marked B on the diagram) then the next step is to connect the voltmeter across the batt terminals start the engine and ground the wire from the alternator at the regulator with the regulator disconnected, looking at the diagram it is the wire from the alt to the reg marked F NOT the dark blue wire from the ballast resistor. When this wire is grounded you are testing the alternator and all the wiring bypassing the regulator. the voltage and amperage should both increase. If it does the the alternator and wiring are all ok which only leaves the regulator, if it does not charge then the alternator is bad.

Cold in GA ? come on up to Wi, I see Valdosta is only going to get to 69 today BRRR lol

I have like 16.9 at the alternator..and thats only for a split second. Then the meter just says one... Also with the car running and the voltmeter still plugged up and everything off (headlights and what not) the battery is putting out 12.3

You could try chasing the wiring according to the diagram I posted earlier....you may find your problem.

[Tj_saxon]

Ok, so I tested it and got a little above 12 on both.

12.32-12.11 they were both kinda steady on that. Sometimes it would drop to 10 and some change but I'm pretty sure that was my hands shacking in this cold GA weather XP

Does this mean the wiring from my alternator is good?

Yea I am about to take everything out the engine bay and look over it all. Any idea why there would be a wire running from my driver side low beam all the way to the trunk and then tied in with the connector to the tail lights??? lol. Ez wiring should hopefully be here soon. I can't wait lol.

This means that the field circuit is not open and the regulator is getting the signal from the ignition. Confirm that you have 12v at the large wire on the alternator (marked B on the diagram) then the next step is to connect the voltmeter across the batt terminals start the engine and ground the wire from the alternator at the regulator with the regulator disconnected, looking at the diagram it is the wire from the alt to the reg marked F NOT the dark blue wire from the ballast resistor. When this wire is grounded you are testing the alternator and all the wiring bypassing the regulator. the voltage and amperage should both increase. If it does the the alternator and wiring are all ok which only leaves the regulator, if it does not charge then the alternator is bad.

Cold in GA ? come on up to Wi, I see Valdosta is only going to get to 69 today BRRR lol

I have like 16.9 at the alternator..and thats only for a split second. Then the meter just says one... Also with the car running and the voltmeter still plugged up and everything off (headlights and what not) the battery is putting out 12.3

You could try chasing the wiring according to the diagram I posted earlier....you may find your problem.

[Tj_saxon]

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73CoronetChargerB.JPG

In this diagram what is the dashed line that connects the two dashed circles?

[lisiecki1]

What you're looking at is two sides of the same plug.  The dashed lines indicate that "this plugs into this".

[Tj_saxon]

I noticed my reply didn't show up. I am thinking of taking all the wiring out of the engine bay. Any suggestions on how to do this?

Also any reason why there is a red wire running from my driver side low beam all the way to the trunk and tied into the connector back there???

And ok thanks. I just saw it and was wondering what it was.

[lisiecki1]

I noticed my reply didn't show up. I am thinking of taking all the wiring out of the engine bay. Any suggestions on how to do this?

Like Cash said, "one piece at a time" 

One of the bulkhead connectors is going to go all the way to the front of the car for the headlights, etc.  You might want to leave that one, unless you're having problems there also.

I think I would pull the plug at the bulkhead and work my way out from there.  Don't yank.

[Tj_saxon]

What is a bulkhead? Sorry, wiring was never really my think. I figure it might be just unbolting the two bolts that all the wires lead to in the firewall and that thing just kinda sliding out. Is it not that simple?

[lisiecki1]

What is a bulkhead? Sorry, wiring was never really my think. I figure it might be just unbolting the two bolts that all the wires lead to in the firewall and that thing just kinda sliding out. Is it not that simple?

The bulkhead connector is where all the wires pass through into the interior of the car.  You don't have to unbolt that.  There are 3 seperate plugs that are plugged into it on the engine compartment side.

[Tj_saxon]

What is a bulkhead? Sorry, wiring was never really my think. I figure it might be just unbolting the two bolts that all the wires lead to in the firewall and that thing just kinda sliding out. Is it not that simple?

The bulkhead connector is where all the wires pass through into the interior of the car.  You don't have to unbolt that.  There are 3 seperate plugs that are plugged into it on the engine compartment side.

Ok thank you!

[johnatkens]

Not sure how it went from a charging system test to throwing a wiring harness at it but do what ya gotta do, Good luck

[Tj_saxon]

Not sure how it went from a charging system test to throwing a wiring harness at it but do what ya gotta do, Good luck

Only because there are some many clipped wires and what not. Not only in the engine bay but also under the dash. Thank you for the good luck wishes.

I almost have the whole harness out. I have everything except one plug that is plugged into the tranny. I believe it is bolted in. Is it safe to just unbolt it?

Also I havent found anything where this wire of the distributor should plug in at. Is it due to the fact I have an edlebrock carb? And what is the wire on top of the intake right beside the thermostat? It is broke.

[Tj_saxon]

Also I noticed on this diagram http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ChallengerA.JPG

Nothing plugs into the bulkhead at spots 20 and 4...Mine has stuff for 20 and 4 and I believe inside the cab they were wired together ( don't take my word for it) because their was wire wrapped around the 20 wire and 4 had tape around it with a random wire hanging out.

[Tj_saxon]

Got my wiring out =D

[Tj_saxon]

Putting it all back in today. Will post how it goes later. Also lisiecki1 What type of lip/chin spoiler is that in the picture of the charger you have?

Also I noticed in these diagrams I printed out and glued together XD

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=73+charger+wiring+diagram&hl=en&sa=X&tbo=d&biw=1600&bih=796&tbm=isch&tbnid=9Kg8oIX__qKyVM:&imgrefurl=http://moparforums.com/forums/f10/please-help-wiring-problem-1973-dodge-charger-8670/&docid=UmsAXYwrzQ4SEM&imgurl=http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73CoronetChargerB.JPG&w=1134&h=1577&ei=RyLSUML3E6GA0AG6qYGoCA&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=589&sig=108045509077593032008&page=1&tbnh=144&tbnw=97&start=0&ndsp=47&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0,i:90&tx=55&ty=84

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=73+charger+wiring+diagram&hl=en&sa=X&tbo=d&biw=1600&bih=796&tbm=isch&tbnid=_WKsbfxAjEMgDM:&imgrefurl=http://moparforums.com/forums/f10/please-help-wiring-problem-1973-dodge-charger-8670/&docid=UmsAXYwrzQ4SEM&imgurl=http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73CoronetChargerA.JPG&w=1128&h=1591&ei=RyLSUML3E6GA0AG6qYGoCA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=82&vpy=104&dur=255&hovh=153&hovw=104&tx=70&ty=131&sig=108045509077593032008&page=1&tbnh=148&tbnw=101&start=0&ndsp=47&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:0,i:93

There is nothing for the speedo or gas gauge and such. Is that a different diagram or am I over looking it on these two?

[lisiecki1]

Putting it all back in today. Will post how it goes later. Also lisiecki1 What type of lip/chin spoiler is that in the picture of the charger you have?

Also I noticed in these diagrams I printed out and glued together XD

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=73+charger+wiring+diagram&hl=en&sa=X&tbo=d&biw=1600&bih=796&tbm=isch&tbnid=9Kg8oIX__qKyVM:&imgrefurl=http://moparforums.com/forums/f10/please-help-wiring-problem-1973-dodge-charger-8670/&docid=UmsAXYwrzQ4SEM&imgurl=http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73CoronetChargerB.JPG&w=1134&h=1577&ei=RyLSUML3E6GA0AG6qYGoCA&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=589&sig=108045509077593032008&page=1&tbnh=144&tbnw=97&start=0&ndsp=47&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0,i:90&tx=55&ty=84

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=73+charger+wiring+diagram&hl=en&sa=X&tbo=d&biw=1600&bih=796&tbm=isch&tbnid=_WKsbfxAjEMgDM:&imgrefurl=http://moparforums.com/forums/f10/please-help-wiring-problem-1973-dodge-charger-8670/&docid=UmsAXYwrzQ4SEM&imgurl=http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73CoronetChargerA.JPG&w=1128&h=1591&ei=RyLSUML3E6GA0AG6qYGoCA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=82&vpy=104&dur=255&hovh=153&hovw=104&tx=70&ty=131&sig=108045509077593032008&page=1&tbnh=148&tbnw=101&start=0&ndsp=47&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:0,i:93

There is nothing for the speedo or gas gauge and such. Is that a different diagram or am I over looking it on these two?

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86817.0.html

[Tj_saxon]

Thanks!

Another question about wiring. In my bulkhead connector 4 has a clipped wire hanging there. In the diagram though there isn't supposed to be anything at 4. Any ideas?

[lisiecki1]

Thanks!

Another question about wiring. In my bulkhead connector 4 has a clipped wire hanging there. In the diagram though there isn't supposed to be anything at 4. Any ideas?

Are you using a diagram specific to the car?  I know at least one of the diagrams that has been posted was for a challenger.....

[Tj_saxon]

Thanks!

Another question about wiring. In my bulkhead connector 4 has a clipped wire hanging there. In the diagram though there isn't supposed to be anything at 4. Any ideas?

Are you using a diagram specific to the car?  I know at least one of the diagrams that has been posted was for a challenger.....

I noticed that too lol. But yea I ended up printing out the charger/cornet diagrams and gluing them together so I could see it all at once XD.

[Tj_saxon]

Ok, so I believe I have slightly made progress...the car is charging now...but the fuse I installed that goes to the starter relay (25 amp) keeps blowing. I will put a new one in...start the car and it will run for a second and then blow. I noticed one of the time that the head lights flickered on and off and I saw that the ground to the head lights was loose. Could that loose ground have caused the fuse to blow when it was wiggling (I haven't got to test this quit yet due to the fact when I noticed it I was on my last fuse). Any ideas as always would be greatly appreciated. =D