News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Inline Tube

Started by billfury, December 07, 2012, 09:33:33 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

billfury

I started to install my fuel system. I'm using 3/8 SS fuel lines with SS 5/16 return line. I'm even using the factory vent canister in the wheel well. The tank is a Spectra that fits perfect. I bought everything from Inline tube. Good guys to deal with if anyone was searching for lines. I also bought the SS brake cable kit. Here are some pictures to check out.

billfury

,

Dino

Looks real nice!   :2thumbs:

What is this canister you speak of my good man?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

billfury

This is the canister that is in the left rear wheel well .

billfury

Me saying WTF did I get myself into?

billfury

.

billfury

Pictures before

tan top

Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

4cruzin

Wow I had to lay under my car to install the lines . . . Looks like you have it made!   :2thumbs:
Tomorrow is promised to NOBODY . . . .

Dino

Quote from: billfury on December 07, 2012, 09:46:22 AM
This is the canister that is in the left rear wheel well .

That's interesting.  Was this one of those one year only deals?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

skip68

skip68, A.K.A. Chuck \ 68 Charger 440 auto\ 67 Camaro RS (no 440)       FRANKS & BEANS !!!


billfury

Quote from: skip68 on December 07, 2012, 11:22:21 AM
What is this car?
1972 Charger SE.Building a 512 stroker auto 8.75 with 3:91's.

billfury

Quote from: Dino on December 07, 2012, 11:21:53 AM
Quote from: billfury on December 07, 2012, 09:46:22 AM
This is the canister that is in the left rear wheel well .

That's interesting.  Was this one of those one year only deals?
71- up to 4/4/72 I think was the date.

charge69

Nice job and it always looks a little intimidating but, on a rotisserie, they sure make it easier! Nice work !

skip68

skip68, A.K.A. Chuck \ 68 Charger 440 auto\ 67 Camaro RS (no 440)       FRANKS & BEANS !!!


41husk

I have had luck with both inline and fine lines.  Nice progress!
1969 Dodge Charger 500 440/727
1970 Challenger convertible 340/727
1970 Plymouth Duster FM3
1974 Dodge Dart /6/904
1983 Plymouth Scamp GT 2.2 Auto
1950 Dodge Pilot house pick up

Mytur Binsdirti

I wouldn't use stainless for the brake lines; they just don't seem to seal as good as the regular steel.

TUFCAT

Quote from: Mytur Binsdirti on December 07, 2012, 01:48:38 PM
I wouldn't use stainless for the brake lines; they just don't seem to seal as good as the regular steel.

Stainless is harder and tougher to work with. I agree that it doesn't bend as easilly or seal as well.  In my opinion if replacing the entire system change fluid to DOT-5 (w/silicone) and use steel brake lines - - or make sure you properly flush the entire old brake system before going with DOT-5.

Dino

Didn't he only do fuel lines and brake cable in SS though?  I don't see mention of SS brake lines.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Just 6T9 CHGR

Chris' '69 Charger R/T


TUFCAT

Quote from: Dino on December 07, 2012, 02:32:52 PM
Didn't he only do fuel lines and brake cable in SS though?  I don't see mention of SS brake lines.

You're right Dirk. I was thinking brakes but good catch. I'd still go with steel lines for fuel. With our careful winter storage, maintenance, and Sta-Bil use it should'nt matter much these days. :Twocents:

billfury

Quote from: Just 6T9 CHGR on December 07, 2012, 05:53:18 PM
Lookin good Bill :cheers:
Thanks.You should come by the shop sometime and check it out.

CRAP......I used SS for the brake lines, just forgot to mention. Everything is brand new so nothing to flush out. Do you think I'll be fine with the DOT 5? What & why does it leak?

XH29N0G

 :Twocents: From what has been written, I would guess it has to do with the hardness and sealing on the fittings rather than compatibility.    My guess is that if it seals now, you are in good shape.  It might be more difficult remake a seal if you disassemble, but I would wait to see.  (I don't know the standard check.  You might pressureize it and use soap solution to check for bubbles)  My guess is that one bent, it shouldn't make a difference what type as long as it is compatible with the materials being used. 

See if others disagree.
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

bill440rt

Stainless on mine, no leaks.

Lookin' good!!
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

oldcarnut

I put SS on mine and can't seem to get one line connecting at the distribution block to seal and I haven't had it on the road yet to check under pressure. May just swap that one to steel if I can't get it sealed.

TUFCAT

Quote from: billfury on December 08, 2012, 06:05:51 AM

CRAP......I used SS for the brake lines, just forgot to mention. Everything is brand new so nothing to flush out. Do you think I'll be fine with the DOT 5? What & why does it leak?


The DOT5 brake fluid contains silicone unlike DOT3/DOT4 fluid. Regular steel brake condensate and sweat creating moisture that overtime contaminates fluid and creates rust from the inside. This is why normal brake fluid changes to an orange or even worse brown color over time in our cars.  Switching to stainless steel line is one way to prevent rust froming inside brake lines.

DOT5 is not, I repeat NOT COMPATABLE WITH DOT3 or DOT4 FLUID. So if you make the switch flush all the lines with brake solvent and its highly recommended to replace or rebuild all hydraulic cylinders.

Two more good reasons for switching to DOT5:  #1 it doesn't get as hot, and #2  it won't cuase damage your paint.  :2thumbs:

billfury

Quote from: oldcarnut on December 08, 2012, 07:48:08 PM
I put SS on mine and can't seem to get one line connecting at the distribution block to seal and I haven't had it on the road yet to check under pressure. May just swap that one to steel if I can't get it sealed.
Looking good. I hope you get that problem worked out.
Was the little Daytona on the top front inner fender well an option  :smilielol:?

billfury

Quote from: TUFCAT on December 08, 2012, 09:34:07 PM
Quote from: billfury on December 08, 2012, 06:05:51 AM

CRAP......I used SS for the brake lines, just forgot to mention. Everything is brand new so nothing to flush out. Do you think I'll be fine with the DOT 5? What & why does it leak?


The DOT5 brake fluid contains silicone unlike DOT3/DOT4 fluid. Regular steel brake condensate and sweat creating moisture that overtime contaminates fluid and creates rust from the inside. This is why normal brake fluid changes to an orange or even worse brown color over time in our cars.  Switching to stainless steel line is one way to prevent rust froming inside brake lines.

DOT5 is not, I repeat NOT COMPATABLE WITH DOT3 or DOT4 FLUID. So if you make the switch flush all the lines with brake solvent and its highly recommended to replace or rebuild all hydraulic cylinders.

Two more good reasons for switching to DOT5:  #1 it doesn't get as hot, and #2  it won't cuase damage your paint.  :2thumbs:
TUFCAT thanks for the info. I never new that. Since my system will be brand new I'm going with DOT5.

resq302

Bill,

Just be careful as stuff I have had rebuilt specifically say not to use DOT 5 as it will destroy the gaskets or other internal seals.  I also have stainless steel lines and have had minimal problems with getting them to seal.  One way I found to make sure you get a good seal is to tighten and loosen it a couple times before you finally tighten it up for the last shot.  That seems to give it a good seal and has worked for me when I have had stubborn areas that did not want to seal on a new line.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

resq302

Also, if you used In Line Tube for proportining or hold off valves, I would be very careful as a lot of people have had bad issues with their hold off and proportioning valves either leaking or acting like a one way valve.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

bull

Quote from: billfury on December 09, 2012, 06:55:28 AM
Quote from: TUFCAT on December 08, 2012, 09:34:07 PM
Quote from: billfury on December 08, 2012, 06:05:51 AM

CRAP......I used SS for the brake lines, just forgot to mention. Everything is brand new so nothing to flush out. Do you think I'll be fine with the DOT 5? What & why does it leak?


The DOT5 brake fluid contains silicone unlike DOT3/DOT4 fluid. Regular steel brake condensate and sweat creating moisture that overtime contaminates fluid and creates rust from the inside. This is why normal brake fluid changes to an orange or even worse brown color over time in our cars.  Switching to stainless steel line is one way to prevent rust froming inside brake lines.

DOT5 is not, I repeat NOT COMPATABLE WITH DOT3 or DOT4 FLUID. So if you make the switch flush all the lines with brake solvent and its highly recommended to replace or rebuild all hydraulic cylinders.

Two more good reasons for switching to DOT5:  #1 it doesn't get as hot, and #2  it won't cuase damage your paint.  :2thumbs:
TUFCAT thanks for the info. I never new that. Since my system will be brand new I'm going with DOT5.

There's some debate on this but the amount of bad press on DOT 5 has rendered any rumors and anecdotal experiences as fact. I don't pretend to have all the facts but I do know it's not legal to create incompatible brake fluids so as far as the law is concerned all DOT fluids are supposed to be safe to use together. Either way, if you're putting in an all-new system the DOT 5 will be fine. More info: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86244.0.html

At any rate, stainless is a lot harder than the typical mild steel normally used in brake lines so it's going to take a lot more work to get them to bend, submit to the correct shape and seal. Not impossible, just difficult.

The70RT

Quote from: resq302 on December 09, 2012, 12:49:21 PM
Also, if you used In Line Tube for proportining or hold off valves, I would be very careful as a lot of people have had bad issues with their hold off and proportioning valves either leaking or acting like a one way valve.

I bought the proportioning valve from them and it leaked after about 6 months with not being used. I had it for like 6 months. I never even asked for a refund because I figured it was unlikely. I used silicone but the package or the site never said not to use it. I bought another from year one but haven't installed it.
<br /><br />Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Supercharged Riot

Fuel lines? Cool stuff

billfury

Quote from: resq302 on December 09, 2012, 12:48:15 PM
Bill,

Just be careful as stuff I have had rebuilt specifically say not to use DOT 5 as it will destroy the gaskets or other internal seals.  I also have stainless steel lines and have had minimal problems with getting them to seal.  One way I found to make sure you get a good seal is to tighten and loosen it a couple times before you finally tighten it up for the last shot.  That seems to give it a good seal and has worked for me when I have had stubborn areas that did not want to seal on a new line.
So the DOT5 can mess up the master & prop valve? I'll have to read up on it. Good advice on loosening & tightening the fittings a few times. :2thumbs:

billfury

Quote from: The70RT on December 09, 2012, 03:32:25 PM
Quote from: resq302 on December 09, 2012, 12:49:21 PM
Also, if you used In Line Tube for proportining or hold off valves, I would be very careful as a lot of people have had bad issues with their hold off and proportioning valves either leaking or acting like a one way valve.

I bought the proportioning valve from them and it leaked after about 6 months with not being used. I had it for like 6 months. I never even asked for a refund because I figured it was unlikely. I used silicone but the package or the site never said not to use it. I bought another from year one but haven't installed it.
I herd about this to. I'm going to reuse my prop valve.Thanks

bill440rt

I think the DOT5 vs 3/4 thing really depends on the brake component manufacturer. Some brake suppliers say not to use DOT5 as it will void their warranties. If you are unsure, check with the brake manufacturer if you are using an aftermarket kit.
Some people have used it without any reported problems. I have DOT5 in one of my cars that has a completely rebuilt stock system. I converted at least 10 years ago with no problems. In other cars I run a synthetic DOT3/4 as not to void any warranties (both cars have different aftermarket disc brake kits). I've also spoken to people that have the same brake systems in their cars with DOT5 an no problems. I personally just didn't want to risk voiding a warranty.

Not sure if Inline ha solved their valve problem or not. Their hold off valve has been on my car for over a year, so far so good.
:2thumbs:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

billfury


Not sure if Inline ha solved their valve problem or not. Their hold off valve has been on my car for over a year, so far so good.
:2thumbs:

[/quote]
I heard they were only having problems with the 72 only type prop valve. All the other are fine.

resq302

Bill,

I have heard (again only heard as I do not use DOT 5) that the silicone could swell up the rubber seals for parts in the brake system due to the stuff being made to withstand the DOT 3 and 4.

I had my new repro hold off valve on my charger for over a year with no issues and then all hell broke loose with it.  I drove about an hour and a half away and noticed a burning smell.  I get to where I was going and see smoke billowing out from my rear brakes.  The hold off valve had turned into a one way valve and not releasing the pressure to the back brakes causing them to be constantly engaged.  It did eventually bleed the pressure back up to the master cylinder but once you hit the brakes again, it did the same thing until the car sat for a while.  I called Inline and "they never had any problems with them" and said to send it back.  They supposedly tested it and sent it back to me as being ok.  Put it on my car, same thing.  Ordered another new one from them, same thing.  I put a jumped line in place of the hold off valve and sure enough, brakes worked as they should.  I got an original one and had it rebuilt, no problems.  Funny how it turned out to be their product and when I sent it back again, they agreed that it was not letting the fluid back through.  The replacement they sent me also had the same problem.  All I know is that I will never use them again.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

bill440rt

Right. Very familiar with your problems with the valve, Brian.
I too have had my share of problems with Inline and won't use them again, but they were for different reasons with different products. Don't want to turn this thread into a vendor bashing fiasco.
I didn't buy my valve from Inline, so maybe all is good there.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Dino

You guys are making me nervous.  I have something from inline in my front disc kit and I think it's the flexible brake lines.  Not installed yet, should I get something else?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

billfury

Quote from: Dino on December 10, 2012, 10:23:58 AM
You guys are making me nervous.  I have something from inline in my front disc kit and I think it's the flexible brake lines.  Not installed yet, should I get something else?
Does get a little confusing huh. I guess you have to make sure it's DOT 5 approved.

Dino

Quote from: billfury on December 10, 2012, 12:14:46 PM
Quote from: Dino on December 10, 2012, 10:23:58 AM
You guys are making me nervous.  I have something from inline in my front disc kit and I think it's the flexible brake lines.  Not installed yet, should I get something else?
Does get a little confusing huh. I guess you have to make sure it's DOT 5 approved.

Sure is!   :yesnod:

I'm not going to use DOT 5 though.  I've been running 3 and 4 for years in all sorts of cars with zero problems, I see no reason to change now.  My brake lines are fine as well so all I'm doing after winter is clean them and install the disc brakes.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

resq302

Quote from: bill440rt on December 10, 2012, 10:16:20 AM
Right. Very familiar with your problems with the valve, Brian.
I too have had my share of problems with Inline and won't use them again, but they were for different reasons with different products. Don't want to turn this thread into a vendor bashing fiasco.
I didn't buy my valve from Inline, so maybe all is good there.


:lol: Too many Bill's on the site.  Bill(440rt), I was actually replying to Bill(fury) just to give him a heads up if he got his proportioning valve or any other kind of valves from them.  I am by no way trying to bash Inline, just give the thread starter a heads up.  All I know is it cost me new rear brake shoes, drums, and heated up the backing plate hot enough that it melted all 4 of the plastic plugs for the brake shoe adjuster.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Mytur Binsdirti

Myself & friends have been using silicone brake fluid for over 25 years with no problems whatsoever.