Lets get painting!!

[Wicked72]

so the charger has FINALLY got some parts and no progress but it time for the body work ive done alot in the past but its been awhile and would like some advice on the steps to take. the car was on fire at some point and paint burned off in a few spots i cant get to very well so theres surface rust. in the past i would get phosphoric acid and spray it on rust to turn it into an inorganic, let it dry (turns black) then spray it will epoxy primer sealer. rust never comes back. Ive never actually used mud over the epoxy sealer just on bare metal and ive always had in the back of my mind of it causing issues later down the road. I am using the DA on the body and i want to use an epoxy primer then mud where needed if needed but im concerned if it will stick well. i dont not plan to DA to bare metal in some spots but its possible i may get it all the way down. I do not want to spend a ton if i dont have to, to get good results. can you guys recommend a good primer? i have some evercoat high build im going to hit it with after. also a good place/ brand of 2 stage paint and clear? im going with a gunmetal metallic   btw the car has no plans to be a show winner, i plan to drive the piss out it 

[b5blue]

I was told by many it's better to epoxy prime before any mud so that's what I am doing with no issues so far. I'm using Eastwood epoxy prime, Evercoat fillers and Kirker Paints. I'm in the same boat as you, a low $$ effort. 

[Wicked72]

Gotta get her on the road before my twins come  I want them to grow up in the car and stay away from the ricers so its time to just get it done!!! 

[Patronus]

I cant see how bad it is but if its just some body work and spray (no panels, patches tho) I go straight to the blocks. Going to a panel with a sanding block is like scratching an old itch. I love watching the lows and highs come out. Leave the whole thing in 220 prime it 2 coats and then back to the blocks... until forever. I have had some issues with coatings for the rust and adhesion. Burns I don't know. Best to try what your thinking on a spot and see.

[Wicked72]

I was wondering if using the phosphoric acid and the eastwood epoxy primer will work. I want to spray the acid on and let it dry then make sure its nuteralized with acetone and apply the epoxy. Hoping it will work?

[Patronus]

Im never above asking, call Eastwood and ask them? But what you're asking sounds on. I would scrub the acetone into everywhere with a soft brush.

[bill440rt]

If you're doing plastic work over epoxy primer, just make sure to sand the epoxy primer for max adhesion. I like to buzz it with 80-grit on a DA.

[b5blue]

I strip/grind, sand and/or sandblast as much as possible then treat leftover rust with "OSPHO".  I do it this way, I wet soak it as long as possible, never letting it start to dry. You can keep it working for 1/2 hr. or longer if it's not too hot, never in direct sunlight, buy having an old spray bottle that you flushed well with water 1/2 full of OSPHO and spray here and there while scrubbing with a soaked rag or brush to keep it damp. After "treating" this way I immediately wipe the area till it's bone dry with fresh clean shop towels. Let that cure for 24 hrs and you can scuff with 150 grit, clean with pre or prep solution, let that dry well and shoot with epoxy primer. 

[DREDILSKI]

Ok bodywork/paint for dummies.... 
What is DA?

I've come to the conclusion that my next step would be to mediablast the car to remove as much rust as possible and prime/seal it to prevent more rust. I may need to replace certain parts of the body but since the car will be under a carport I want to make sure I seal it to prevent it from rusting all over again. I was told by a bodyshop that ONLY paint and clearcoat will seal the car to keep it from rusting, is that true? I'm trying to do much of the work myself so no telling how long it will be exposed to the elements.

[JB400]

A DA is a dual action sander.

[Patronus]

Ok bodywork/paint for dummies.... 
What is DA?

I've come to the conclusion that my next step would be to mediablast the car to remove as much rust as possible and prime/seal it to prevent more rust. I may need to replace certain parts of the body but since the car will be under a carport I want to make sure I seal it to prevent it from rusting all over again. I was told by a bodyshop that ONLY paint and clearcoat will seal the car to keep it from rusting, is that true? I'm trying to do much of the work myself so no telling how long it will be exposed to the elements.

Not necessarily. Probably true in the long run, but a good epoxy primer will bead water for a long time. (un sanded)

[Dino]

Ok bodywork/paint for dummies.... 
What is DA?

I've come to the conclusion that my next step would be to mediablast the car to remove as much rust as possible and prime/seal it to prevent more rust. I may need to replace certain parts of the body but since the car will be under a carport I want to make sure I seal it to prevent it from rusting all over again. I was told by a bodyshop that ONLY paint and clearcoat will seal the car to keep it from rusting, is that true? I'm trying to do much of the work myself so no telling how long it will be exposed to the elements.

Not necessarily. Probably true in the long run, but a good epoxy primer will bead water for a long time. (un sanded)

I agree that clear would be the only protectant while using the car but the primer will be fine under a car port, just don't cover it up.

Don't go overboard with the primer, if it sits for a long time and you start work on it again you will want to remove as much of it as possible.  I would not consider building upon a primer that was exposed to the elements for a long time.  I'd probably put a coat of wax or even vaseline over the primer to further protect it, but you'll have some cleanup to do later on.  You do not want to sand wax or grease! 

[DREDILSKI]

Thanks guys, 

Now back to Wicked's thread