Starter Causing 9V to ING2 ??

[Canadian1968]

So I discovered that I am only getting 9V from Brown wire at the Resistor on Crank. I should be getting full battery voltage or close to it.

I Disconnected the power to my starter and left my Fuseable link power wire connected.  When I turn the key to start I now get my 11.5 V to my brown wire.

Why is my starter causing that voltage drop

[John_Kunkel]

What is the voltage right at the battery terminals with the starter running?

[Canadian1968]

Starting at 12.2 V ( its low from all the cranking and testing I have been doing ! )

On crank voltage at therminals drops to 10.68V

[John_Kunkel]

Start checking the brown wire voltage at each connection...the firewall disconnect in particular.

[Canadian1968]

ok will do ... But is it normal for the battery to drop like that on start??? How am I supposed to get anywhere close to 12V if I am dropping to 10.7 right at the battery???

[Canadian1968]

OK so I just pulled down the ignition switch and tested right from the back of the switch ( brown), I get 9.68V, and again at the ballast connector 9.6V

I can go from negative post on my battery to the B+ terminal on my starter relay and get 10.6.

When I upgraded my alternator I ran the piggy back wire from B+ on ALT. to the B+ on the starter relay so I know that connection is solid ( no connections as solid wire passed directly threw the firewall). I also still have the original Fusible like at the Bulkhead  and stock ammerter wires as well.

I don't know what else to test. But I obviously have the biggest drop right out of the igntion switch.

But once agian... if I only have 10.6 coming off my battery to begin with?  And if I disconnect the starter I have my battery Voltage (approx 11.6V) at my brown wire ballast connector. So I don't see how there can be a problem with the brown wire.

[John_Kunkel]

You'll find different starter voltage drop specs from different sources, some say battery voltage should not drop below 9.0-9.5 volts (at the battery).  I prefer to use 10.0 volts as a minimum, but either value is acceptable.

Yours is dropping lower than battery voltage at points away from the battery which suggests poor connections or bad cables. That's why I suggested checking it at several points. In order, with the starter running:

-At the starter main lug, then
-At the large lug on the relay, then
-At the fusible link firewall disconnect (both sides), then
-At the the brown wire on the ign. switch, then
-At the brown wire firewall disconnect (both sides)

[Canadian1968]

Well its alive again !!!!

The car is running again !! But I can't honestly say that I know what the problem is/was . For whatever reason the tach wire that runs to the negative side of coil seem to be grounding it out. As soon as we pull the wire off we got spark !! We started the car had it running , touch the tach wire to the negative terminal and it killed the engine. !!!

Why ? I don't know , last time I had the car running the tach wire was hooked up. So there is still something strange goin on behind the dash , I am assuming with in the harness!

But good news is the car is running now need to tune it , then I will hunt down that damn eletrical gremlin agaiN!

[nascarxx29]

 Ive had Tachs do this bad tach or something with electronic ignition.I eliminate added on aftermarket wiring when troubleshooting electrical I think I mentioned removing tach wire on Neg terminal .Another area keep all electrical connections clean and tight.Or you get resistance warm wires plastic smell.Congrats you got up and going

[nascarxx29]

I did re read all your posts .And found this


Re: Car won't stay running after new harness installed

« Reply #19 on: October 21, 2012, 03:33:57 PM »

QuoteModify


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When I do the testlight I go clip on end to ground and pointed to neg coil terminal looking for a flicker pulse of light.You might be able to tell by voltage changes. Are your coil connections right blue yellow to + and black yellow to _ ..[[[Do You have got any add ons like after market tachs or anything on the coil]]]

With that issue behind you what are the other gremlin to combat

[Canadian1968]

Yes I know that had been mentioned in earlier post. But when I was trying to start the engine for the first time after the new parts installed. I did not have the wire hooked up.

The tach actually has not been working since the MP ignition was installed. And the new wire harness did not have a wire for the tach, its not really part of the harness anyway. Its a seperate wire that goes threw its own gromet on the fire wall.

When the engine was running with new parts installed, but I couldn't get it to charge or idel, I did actually have the tach wire hooked up to try and get some idea of my RPMs ( but it still did not work of course ).  That is why I am not totally out of the woods yet !! I know that I have had the current setup running with the tach wire on , but for whatever reason it is grounding out the coil at the moment! The only thing that has really changed is that I have the cluster in and out a couple times, and I have moved the wiring harness around to gain access to the back of the ignition switch.
More or less - Moving wires !!!

I think i have some sort of short, ground or poor connection stil in my wiring / dash. At the moment it is grounding out my tach, but I have a feeling , if I pulled the dash out again, and put it back in, I may not have the same problem !!!!  That is gremilin I feel I still need to hunt down !!!

A quick tic-toc-tac question . 

2 wires to back of the tach gauge - One is for power i belive - blue colour with a push on connector over threaded stud on back of the tach.
                                                 - One is for RPM signal from the coil  - grey colour with ring connector held on with nut to other stud on tach.
                                                 - Three other studs which are grounds for the tach
Now I also have another single wire, its grey colour as well. It goes into a gromet that is still part of the gauge frame for the tach. If I were to remove the tach from the bezle this wire would come with it. It appears that it runs into the center portion of gauge ( clock ). Is this another 12V source for the clock?.

[nascarxx29]

Tach wiring post

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,62593.0.html