Changing Clutch 68 Charger

[cshutts]

Hello everyone,

I have a 68 Charger RT, with the 4speed, 3.54 gears, and the stock 440 with the 284 duration, .474 lift purple cam.  The motor is finally sorted out and it drives right through the clutch in 2nd and 3rd.

I have a lift and I am planning on changing the clutch myself this winter.  I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good clutch brand they have used, and if there are any pointers in doing the job.  I was leaning toward a Centerforce dual diaphram, and I was planning on resurfacing the flywheel, and changing the throwout and pilot bearing.

I have heard folks remove the over center spring.  From studying the linkage, it looks like that makes total sense.

thanks for the info!

Chris

[Chryco Psycho]

Center force is more about hype & advertising than product quality , I have seen numerous problems with them & seen them not last a weekend !
McLeod has a far better product  , I typically use the Borg & Beck / Long pressure plates although I am not sure they are available for the 11" 143 tooth flywheel if that is what you have , there is a 12" upgrade for the 143 tooth set up though , they also have Street twin systems with both 3 finger stock type or diapragm pressure plates , I would call their teck line & discuss what you need www.mcleodracing.com

[cshutts]

I have heard that about centerforce.

It looks like Hays has the Borg and Beck style pressure plate for the 11".  The McLeod stuff looks real good, it is super expensive.  I don't mind the cost, I just want something that is very smooth.  My 442 has an awesome clutch (not sure the brand) and it makes the car a lot more fun to drive.

Have you heard about removing the over center spring?  This is my first Mopar and I don't know how common that was across other models.

thanks,
Chris

[Chryco Psycho]

It depends which clutch you use , the 3 finger BB or B&B Long require the over center spring to overcome the clutch load , the diaphragm type do not need the overcenter spring but they have a funny fell to them , the pedal pressure is very light 3/4 of the way up from the floor & then they snap the lst 1/4 , hard to engage smoothly , I really dislike the feel of them in a muscle car , they also have a tendancy to stay on the floor on High rpm shifts , ys I have had this happen to me , you bang the clutch down grab the next gear & release the pedal but it stays on the floor as the engine hits 8500+ RPM . I will never use a diaphragm again personally

[Cooter]

I have a 10.5: Mcleod and Love it. LOTS of force, and dual friction to boot. Ceramic on one side and standard friction material on other.

Was sceptical at first being a diaphram, but it holds just fine behind my 440. I've ran my fair share of "Cheap" clutch kits and trust me, it's no fun to find out it was cheaper for a reason AFTER you've blown it out.