1969 Dodge Charger SE 383 4bl Project by Shawn!

[Ghoste]

They don't believe there are any good rebuilders locally?

[Mopar1979]

There is a good one close to me, but they tell me I will pay more than would it would cost to buy one. I am still going to get them to look at my blocks and find a good combination of parts list and get a quote.

[lukedukem]

There is a good one close to me, but they tell me I will pay more than would it would cost to buy one. I am still going to get them to look at my blocks and find a good combination of parts list and get a quote.

thats a good idea. don't forget to account the sipping to michigan for your block if you are comparing prices. not sure how much it would be but every bit counts. and when having a shop locally vs shipping, that can be a deciding point. it was for me, not that i made a decision. also ask about warranty. a shop outta arizona said they would biuld me a stock 383. bone stock. date correct for i think 5500. and it came with one year warranty. but you can't put a blower on it or anything like that, or NOS. just things to consider
luke

[Mopar1979]

Thanks for the tip. Shipping is probably 3 or 400 I would guess. If my blocks aren't good then I guess a crate would be the way to go with some kind of warranty. What would be a good camshaft with a good lope but has some vacuum at idle for power brakes. I plan on a edelbrock performer intake, edelbrock 84 cc heads and a 850cfm carb. I want to get 500hp maybe with a stroker kit on the 383. Has anyone got a combo to get this?

[lukedukem]

Thanks for the tip. Shipping is probably 3 or 400 I would guess. If my blocks aren't good then I guess a crate would be the way to go with some kind of warranty. What would be a good camshaft with a good lope but has some vacuum at idle for power brakes. I plan on a edelbrock performer intake, edelbrock 84 cc heads and a 850cfm carb. I want to get 500hp maybe with a stroker kit on the 383. Has anyone got a combo to get this?

check out this thread...  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,46587.0.html

luke

[surmanajaja]

I want some input on rebuilding my k member and going with rack and pinion versus power steering.

dont put a rack in it, there isnt a "good" kit around that would give you better feel than a professionally rebuilt (firm feel etc) regular box.

I like the wheels you have on it, hope you stay with "old school" look when its ready for the road...

[Mopar1979]

I may just have the steering box rebuilt with a quicker ratio. I probably will rebuild one of my 383 heads. I am going to get her blasted hopefully the first of the month.
Shawn

[Mopar1979]

Well I hit a setback today. My media blast guy broke his leg and will be out of pocket for at least 6 weeks. Bummer! I guess I will find little things to do til the first of the year. Does anyone know of a good tread on instrument cluster rebuilding or a good company to send it too? I want all of my gauges reset and checked.
Shawn

[rebby]

Have fun -> http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,37999.0.html

[Mopar1979]

Thanks Rebby! That's a good post but I may want to send it off somewhere to make sure it is done right since I don't have all of the stuff to set all of the gauges after reading the post or the time. Who would be the best to use for this? The Guage Doc? Anyone else?

[red69superbee]

there may be a possibility that is the right 383 for your car, 68 models had the numbers back on top of where the trans bolts on looking straight down from the top .The trans number is there as well, i think? Anyone can correct me if im mistaken on either

[Mopar1979]

I have not heard that. I will try to check and see. That would be great if tht is the case. The engine has already been bored .60 over but supposedly just needs honing. i will have to mic to no for sure.

[bakerhillpins]

there may be a possibility that is the right 383 for your car, 68 models had the numbers back on top of where the trans bolts on looking straight down from the top .The trans number is there as well, i think? Anyone can correct me if im mistaken on either

Yes, that is correct for the most part. VINs were not required until 1/1/68 though so early build 68s may not have them.

Here are some links that show how to check the numbers on Mopars. Its a tad thick since its different for 68s and 69s but if you read through all the steps it does say what to look for in a 68. Be aware that the 2nd is primarily about 68s and the 3rd about 70s.
http://andy440.com/other.htm
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,38316.0/all.html
http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/numbersMatching.shtml
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,32660.25.html

[Mopar1979]

THANKS! I will read up on this. I guess it is not uncommon for a early 69 charger to have a 68 model block then.

[XS29L9B2]

nice work good luke man 

[will]

I guess you passed on Mike then?

[Mopar1979]

I have a guy that is working with me at my house to do all of the body and sheet metal and then I will carry to body shop for paint. I can actually manage what I am paying him to do this way instead of paying 3k or so up front to come back 6 months later to find hardly anything done. This keeps him motivated and he gets paid by the hour.

[bull]

Glad you're saving it but I had to go get a tetanus shot after seeing those pictures.

[Mopar1979]

Thanks! I got the rear axle out this weekend. I also removed the brake lines and fuel lines. The shock bolts were a lot of fun getting to them. My differential has a 3.23 gear ratio. How would that do with a 500 hp 383 stroker with 727 trans in the quarter mile? I will post pics tommorrow

[Ghoste]

Get a rearend ratio designed to work with the rest of the build.

[Mopar1979]

HERE ARE SOME PICS AFTER THIS WEEKEND.

[Mopar1979]

MORE PICS

[tan top]

been busy   ,   

[charge69]

Stay busy as you are coming along nicely. In reference to your question about a 3.23 ratio rearend: My original Hemicar came with a 3.23 rearend ratio 8 3/4 pumpkin (suregrip too) from the factory and, if you aren't going to dragrace yours, that is a great ratio for cruising. Still plenty of get-up-and-go and decent cruising at highway speeds.
My good friend and rebuilder has tried every rearend ratio from 2.76 to 4.56 in his Chally and said 3.23 works best. His car was actually only 1/2 second quicker going from 2.76 to 4.11 and that was on a real dragstrip with drag radials on his car. He gets mid-12's out of his 3.55 rearend on his 383 chally and it was not that hard. I really think a good converter with a higher than stock stall-speed would make more difference.
I will be happy with my 3.23 suregrip and it is going behind my 585hp Hemi.

[Mopar1979]

Thanks for the info. I am still trying to figure out the right tire and wheel combination for my car. I think i want a 17X8 rim and maybe a 18 x8 rim on the back or both 17s on front and rear. Is there a good formula to figure out what tire height and rim weight to calculate that my 3.23 would work best with this?
Thanks,
Shawn