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Torsion bar removal on 69 charger

Started by Mopar1979, November 04, 2012, 03:21:30 PM

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JB400

As I posted before, probably Jegs.  $110 a piece

Mopar1979

Thanks man! I am removing the k frame and rear axle today to put on Dollie wheels to get ready to remove that old nasty undercoating.
Shawn

Ghoste

Mancini has them for about 6 bucks more apiece, might be worth seeing if they will beat Jegs price?  Maybe see what different ones want for shipping on them so you have total cost.  Might even be worth seeing what your local Dodge dealer will sell them to you at.

Mopar1979

Cross my fingers the k frame bolts come loose. They have soaked all week

JB400

Quote from: Mopar1979 on November 10, 2012, 11:11:48 AM
Cross my fingers the k frame bolts come loose. They have soaked all week
Don't forget to eat your Wheaties

Mopar1979

Got the torsion bars out and the k member without too much hassle. The torsion adjuster bolts were pretty rusted and very tuff , but out in one piece. The torsion bars had a lot o grease still on them packed in the back. The k member bolts soaked all week thus were easy. I think I want to put a rack and pinion steering system in it. Any comments or any brand recommendations?

Ghoste

No advice for you on a rack but glad to hear the other part went okay.

JB400

Glad things went alright. :2thumbs:  No rack experience either, at least not auto related, but are you planning on changing your k member as well?

Mopar1979

I thought I would put a rack and pinion kit on the existing k frame to keep cost down.

Cooter

IMO, rack and pinion steering isn't worth the extra expense and trouble with "Bump steer" and such. I prefer a Firm feel steering box updated with quick ratio steering. :2thumbs:
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Mopar1979

Who could I get to rebuild my box or can I buy one with faster ratio?

JB400

Firm Feel is the way to go.  Also, you can get the T/A pitman arm and drag link.  They are on my wish list besides led taillights.  The only real items I want for mine.

Chryco Psycho

Quote from: Mopar1979 on November 11, 2012, 09:55:33 AM
Who could I get to rebuild my box or can I buy one with faster ratio?
Firm Feel or Steer & Gear both offer exchanges as well

Mopar1979

Thanks I will check out there websites!

Mopar1979

Here is a picture after i got it on the dollie. I got to get the rearend out and put a brace on the front before off to blasting.

cdr

Quote from: Mopar1979 on November 10, 2012, 09:43:52 PM
Got the torsion bars out and the k member without too much hassle. The torsion adjuster bolts were pretty rusted and very tuff , but out in one piece. The torsion bars had a lot o grease still on them packed in the back. The k member bolts soaked all week thus were easy. I think I want to put a rack and pinion steering system in it. Any comments or any brand recommendations?
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,92181.msg1046683.html#msg1046683

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,90903.msg1042592.html#msg1042592
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

HeavyFuel

It's good you got the bars out.

Here is another little piece of advice for those following along at home.

The SM says to remove the UCA bump stop to allow the LCA to go into FULL unload......that means the LCA will drop another couple inches.  If you don't do this, the bar is still under a small amount of twist, which might impede removal.

That extra inch or two makes a difference when you put them back in.  I installed my bars last weekend, and the right one slid right in, because the hexes on the body mounting point and the LCA were in perfect alignment.  No tool required.  They would not have been lined up without removing the bump stop.  The left LCA had to be lifted just a bit to get the hexes to line up.


Hard Charger

Mopar1979.....How did you lube up your k frame bolts?

i just took mine out but i left a ("nut" so to speak) on the garage floor.

tryed squirting WD thru the frame holes but the bolt came out dry.

Mopar1979

I sprayed the front ones and they were wet. I used a chemical spray that froze the back ones, the chemical helped them break loose. it seemed to work ok. I got them out without too much trouble.
Thanks,
Shawn

Hard Charger

it was 1 back one that gave me trouble.

all had light corrosion on the last 1/2" of threads.

it was a first for me to take the k-frame out. i was nervous about supporting the car as i usually jack from the k-frame. i ended up using 6x6 and cinderblocks at the t-bar crossmember.  looking to take off the rear suspension also this way.

i was surprised at how easy it was to take out.

this forum sure gives you the idea you can get the job done.