News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Car won't stay running after new harness installed - Seriously whats wrong !!!

Started by Canadian1968, October 20, 2012, 03:06:30 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

nascarxx29

1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

resq302

Ive had good luck with the KEM one I picked up at Advance Auto Parts years ago!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Canadian1968

STILL NO START ..... getting angry!!!

I Made a brand new ground to the firewall.  I have a brand new ECU and I grounded the ECU directly with the ground wire.

It will still not start. 
In Run position I have 11.5V on one side of ballast, 5.5V on the other , I have power at the coil. New ecu, new regulator, new alternator, new wiring harness, new bulkhead connection.

What gives??? 

JB400

I'd try having another pair of eyes look at it.  We're overlooking something.  It's probably something simple.

Canadian1968

PROGRESS!!! well kind of!

So I was looking at everything and notice that the bunch of wires that runs pin connector for ECU was wrapped around the rest of the harness I unwrapped it and after making sure everything was plugged in secrure, went and tired it.  I NOW have some sort of ignition!!!!  I am back to square one.... it will fire but seems to die as soon as I let go of the key , it will back fire about 1 of 4 tries.


So I suspected the connector to the ecu had bad connections possibly inside the connector. I had another connector that came with the original conversion kit. I splice that and tired, same thing,  so.............................. since this all started by simply moving the wiring harness I am convinced there must be a bad connection some where in the harness???


I just want to double check on my wiring .... I can't seem to find a diagram wiht the 2 prong ballast ( only finding 4)   But if you look at my picture you will see the colours.  The Brown and Blue - are from igntion and run to Coil  and the Blue/Yellow and Blue - come from ECU and come from ignition, I also have my 2nd FLD wire spliced into this blue wire.  SOUnd right???




nascarxx29

Orange box has 5 wires black w yellow -neg side of coil positive side of coil gets blue and yellow.The distributor was a molded plug 2 wires fits one way .And left over green w red doesnt get used.
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf

If you look at at the 68 to 70 engine harness diagram you will see how to go from 1 field to 2 field alt conversion

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0112_electronic_voltage_regulator_and_alternator/viewall.html
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

nascarxx29

If you got a ohmeter set it for resistance and check both ends of the harness wires one by one .While tugging on it.You might have a intermittant connection
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

Canadian1968

So back at the car today,

I tested for continuity on  all wires for the starting circuit. Everything checks out.
I did notice that I had some spark plug wires mixed up, I had pulled a couple to make it easier to run the wires down around distributor and to the alt.  I must have crossed two, ( probably explain the backfire I got every now and then when it decides to fire. )

I am still stuck , it appears to have no spark again , all my wires check out fine, power to coil , ballast .  I am starting to think it is my coil ???

I did a diagram of how I have my wires run but I am pretty confident that they are correct.  A faulty VR should not cause a no start problem will it??? And if I am getting my power to all points my ignition switch must be ok ???

Coil???

nascarxx29

Glad to hear the harness was ok .I recalled this post where harness were the issue
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1162235&page=13&fpart=1&vc=1.
Im not sure what the case is with your car. If you remove distributor cap rotor turning? Could it have jumped time which also causes backfiring if you pop comp on #1 does rotor index with cap.If its not mechanical still gotta be electrical coil dist pick up?

Do you have a points distributor you could try to get up and running for a test. And be sure of the firing order which is counter clockwise on big block is right .Then get back on the Electronic ignition gremlins
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

b5blue

  Pull a plug, check for fuel smell, it could be flooded. Check for spark with the plug you removed by grounding it well and cranking. If it fires what color is the spark? (Blue good orange weak.) Check for fuel pressure also, I had a less than 1 year old new Carter pump fail. (The car sat unstarted for 6 months.) Be certain that the ignition module and voltage regulator are well grounded. With all this messing around be sure the battery is fully charged and all connections are 100%.  :scratchchin: 
 

nascarxx29

1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

Canadian1968

.... tested my coil pick up gettin 300ohms... I belive that is in spec


Ghoste


Canadian1968

ITS ALIVE !!!!!!!

So i FINALLY got the car started today, I had my #1 plug wire in wrong spot on the distributor, hence everything else was off by one spot as well. 

Got the car to start , but it is far from running great.  One of my problems is, the alt is not charging at all !!!  I will read a couple post see what i can find out

And ther other seems to be fuel related, but I would like to get my charging problems fixed first.

BUT a big thanks to all those that gave suggestions and helped me out !!! Thank you


Carrnutt

I have learned that it is almost always the simplest of things, we overlook or take for granted that they're correct, that cause us great frustration.  :lol:    GRATS!!!  :cheers: on finding the major source of your frustration.  :2thumbs:
1969 Rest-O-Fied Charger 383HP, Disc brake conversion, electronic ignition.
1993 D350 Curmmins
2006 Magnum R/T AWD
2003 Ram 3500 Cummins

nascarxx29


Troubleshooting with the basics.Thats why I asked
.If you pop comp on #1 does rotor index with cap..firing order clockwise direction.Glad to hear its running :2thumbs:
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

Canadian1968


nascarxx29

Counter clockwise is correct .I usually see the rotor pointing at the alt mounting tab 18436572
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701