Things to do to make a Charger a better driver

[Dino]

I started making a list of things I wanted to do to my car and then thought I'd post it as other members can get ideas out of it and add ideas to the thread as well.  If you take your car out on the occasional Sunday this will likely be overkill for you but if you want to drive your car a lot like I do, you may want to read on.

My focus is on making the Charger more of a daily driver, others that want to chip in to make your car just more reliable or better on the strip feel free to do so.

At this time, the Charger is very reliable but it is not quite where I want it.  Any time I push the gas pedal over half I will end up smelling like fuel.  If new fuel lines and the TQ carb do not fix that issue then my first order of business is saving my pennies for EFI.  I would buy a kit right now if I could justify the cost as I would love to fire it up on a cold morning and drive off but that's not working all too well with the carb and by the time the car has warmed up enough so it idles I woke up half the neighborhood and filled the garage with fumes.  Not fun.

I bought new roof rail weatherstripping and vent window seals but haven't installed them yet.  On fall days like this the wind noise is so loud I have to actually open a vent window to make it stop.  I can also see my vent window frame vibrate sometimes so it needs to be adjusted as well.

Also on the list is either getting a stage 2 or 3 firm feel pump OR do the power steering pump mod.  Funny enough I'm now so used to the loose steering I forget to actually do that mod. 

I have new shocks ready to go in and would love to replace all the bushings with new rubber.  I'll also need new rims and tires.  If anyone can tell me what the best parts are to make my ride smoother I'm all ears!  michigan has some of the worst roads in the country and I need as much cushion as I can get.  For that reason I have to go with 15" tires with a high sidewall.  My daily has 17" tires and it's a rough ride on these roads. 

The fuel smell is probably the worst feature right now but the gas tank filler tube is becoming a close second.  I literally top off the tank once a week and I'm sooo tired of having to trickle in the last gallon I could puke.  If you own a 2nd gen than you know that if you leave the fuel handle in the tube and wait for it to shut off you're going to have a serious mess on your hands.  I need to find a way to make the vent system work so I can fill it up like a normal car.  I know some people listen to it fill up but of course the gas stations I go to have music playing all the time so you can't tell when it's near full.  Even if I could, I still want a fix for it so if you know how to please let the rest of us know.

I haven't had any issues with any electrical but I do have the typical dimming lights when the car is idling so I need to do the relay mod.  Can this also be done for other things like the windshield wipers?  I always have to turn mine off when coming to a stop because they won't get enough juice so slide over the windshield at idle.  They just stutter from side to side.   

I still hope to do my gauge mod but I did get the temp and oil sender gauge to work properly now, I just need to recalibrate them as they read too low.  The fuel gauge however is still giving me grief.

My brakes are still working fine but I will eventually stick that disc brake kit on it.

If anyone has anything to add to this, have at it!

[1974dodgecharger]

I say the EFI, but man I saw those and those cost nearly 3500 bucks or so same as a blower setup. Need to make more money!!!!!!

[twodko]

FirmFeel II, front suspension rebuild, disk brakes, new shocks(just good ones, you don't need high dollar names), front/rear sway bars and of course good tires. 

[Dino]

I think it's near $2K for the fast EZ EFI setup but I'm not sure how much more you'd have to spend to make it run.  I just can't spend that amount of money on it let alone $3500!

Agreed Tom.  I was happy to find a full set of the Edelbrock IAS shocks before they were discontinued so I'll be bolting those on next season.  I do have the rear sway bar as well but I don't know if I want it installed.  I will have to wait and see how it will run with bigger tires and the new shocks.  With my 14" 225's and old shock it still corners great and I have no problem sending it in a controlled slide so it should only get better.

[Cooter]

Dino, never really cared about this type stuff until recently. Call it getting older, wanting more, etc. but I swapped in some stiff Sway bars, front and rear, firmer shocks, and Biggest MP T-bars i could get, as well as sub-frame conn. Geesh, what a difference in the Challenger. Holy crap.

Most of this would work really well on a B-body as well. A/C is another thing I'm trying out for the first time as well.

[Dino]

Frame connectors....hmmm.  Even in a cruiser like mine that would probably be a good idea.  It's nothing I can do untill I at least rip out the interior but it's going on my list.

I have a 71 squad car drivetrain in mine so the front sway bar is pretty beefy.  I don't experience any front roll at all in corners so I think it's working!  Not sure on the torsion bars, I'll have to check and see what size they are. 

I have my A/C ready to go next season so for the first time I'll have working heat and air.  Looking forward to that!

I didn't really care about all this stuff before either but I sure do now.  The fuel smell is top priority, I send my wife into an asthma attack this weekend because of it and that can't happen.

Everything else is pretty much luxury stuff.  I love to get in the Charger after driving my Honda but I sure do miss some of the latters' features!

[Back N Black]

I have 5000 miles on a complete nut and bolt restoration, if i could do it over again i would have spent more coin on brakes and steering. I have the A-body disc conversion up front and drums on the rear,i should have installed the 4 wheel disc brakes. I have all new stock steering and suspension set up, but i should have installed firm feel?
The engine is just shy of 500 hp and 550 torque but is useless if you can't stop and steer. So, in my opinion spend the money once on good gear.

[Dino]

I have 5000 miles on a complete nut and bolt restoration, if i could do it over again i would have spent more coin on brakes and steering. I have the A-body disc conversion up front and drums on the rear,i should have installed the 4 wheel disc brakes. I have all new stock steering and suspension set up, but i should have installed firm feel?
The engine is just shy of 500 hp and 550 torque but is useless if you can't stop and steer. So, in my opinion spend the money once on good gear.

I totally agree. 

For what it's worth, you still have a killer ride and those mods are still worth the time and money.  I have to ask though, what's wrong with the brakes?  The dront disc and rear drum combo should work fine.  I have the original drums on all four and my car stops pretty much the same as my Honda although due to the weight it needs a bit more space.

[Back N Black]

I have 5000 miles on a complete nut and bolt restoration, if i could do it over again i would have spent more coin on brakes and steering. I have the A-body disc conversion up front and drums on the rear,i should have installed the 4 wheel disc brakes. I have all new stock steering and suspension set up, but i should have installed firm feel?
The engine is just shy of 500 hp and 550 torque but is useless if you can't stop and steer. So, in my opinion spend the money once on good gear.

I totally agree. 

For what it's worth, you still have a killer ride and those mods are still worth the time and money.  I have to ask though, what's wrong with the brakes?  The dront disc and rear drum combo should work fine.  I have the original drums on all four and my car stops pretty much the same as my Honda although due to the weight it needs a bit more space.

I had a couple close calls,where i had to slam on the brakes and it just don't stop as fast as it should. Maybe i'm spoiled, with all the new vehicles that we drive have 4 wheel disc.

[Dino]

I have 5000 miles on a complete nut and bolt restoration, if i could do it over again i would have spent more coin on brakes and steering. I have the A-body disc conversion up front and drums on the rear,i should have installed the 4 wheel disc brakes. I have all new stock steering and suspension set up, but i should have installed firm feel?
The engine is just shy of 500 hp and 550 torque but is useless if you can't stop and steer. So, in my opinion spend the money once on good gear.

I totally agree. 

For what it's worth, you still have a killer ride and those mods are still worth the time and money.  I have to ask though, what's wrong with the brakes?  The dront disc and rear drum combo should work fine.  I have the original drums on all four and my car stops pretty much the same as my Honda although due to the weight it needs a bit more space.

I had a couple close calls,where i had to slam on the brakes and it just don't stop as fast as it should. Maybe i'm spoiled, with all the new vehicles that we drive have 4 wheel disc.

If I slam on my brakes I will be stuck in my steering wheel.  Something's not right with your brakes my friend.  That combo should make your car stop on a dime.

[Dino]

I just realized I forgot one of the most important things.  Seatbelts.

I removed the original shoulder belts in mine and am just using the lap belts.  My driver's side shoulder belt had snapped apparently years ago.

When I redo my interior I will be installing a set of seat belts intended for convertibles so I can mount them to the rear upper pad instead of the roof. 

I also forgot about the power options.  I'm installing power windows, keyless entry and power trunk lock and I'm trying to find a powered driver's seat I can adapt to work with a b body seat but that one's low on the list.  It's not like you have to reposition your seat once you've set it.  Rear defogger is on the list as well, I have some of the parts. (thanks Paul)

[HANDM]

For me, I would need to upgrade the ignition and fuel systems.... I am constantly having vapor lock and ECU failures

Other than that, when I fire the Charger up in the morning, I just give it a few romps on the pedal and it idles and drives like a champ with no warm up required. Same thing with the Cuda  (383 and 440)  If I try that in the Challenger with the 318.......lets just say It ALWAYS needs to be warmed up

[Dino]

For me, I would need to upgrade the ignition and fuel systems.... I am constantly having vapor lock and ECU failures

Other than that, when I fire the Charger up in the morning, I just give it a few romps on the pedal and it idles and drives like a champ with no warm up required. Same thing with the Cuda  (383 and 440)  If I try that in the Challenger with the 318.......lets just say It ALWAYS needs to be warmed up

Interesting.  Why do you think tht is?  I have to say, I never had real startup issues but after I blocked the heat corssover it was a bit trickier to cold start.  Blocking it did solve the warm startup issue though and it's not quite as obnoxious inside the cab now the fuel doesn't all boil out of the carb.

I know that someone with the knowledge can fine tune the carb to make everything beter but I'm not that someone and I don't plan on using that carb much longer anyway.

[stripedelete]

I'll also need new rims and tires.  If anyone can tell me what the best parts are to make my ride smoother I'm all ears!  michigan has some of the worst roads in the country and I need as much cushion as I can get.  For that reason I have to go with 15" tires with a high sidewall.  My daily has 17" tires and it's a rough ride on these roads. 

Steel wheels provide a softer ride than cast aluminum.

[Dino]

I'll also need new rims and tires.  If anyone can tell me what the best parts are to make my ride smoother I'm all ears!  michigan has some of the worst roads in the country and I need as much cushion as I can get.  For that reason I have to go with 15" tires with a high sidewall.  My daily has 17" tires and it's a rough ride on these roads. 

Steel wheels provide a softer ride than cast aluminum.

I think it's the other way around.  Aluminum wheels are smoother due to the casting process whereas steel wheels have more give to them thus giving a less smooth ride.  Personally I don't think there's any significant difference in real world driving.  The potholes are going to hurt no matter what the rim is made of but at lest the thicker tire should cushion it a bit.  Sometimes I wonder if I would be more comfortable going off road here.

[stripedelete]

I'll also need new rims and tires.  If anyone can tell me what the best parts are to make my ride smoother I'm all ears!  michigan has some of the worst roads in the country and I need as much cushion as I can get.  For that reason I have to go with 15" tires with a high sidewall.  My daily has 17" tires and it's a rough ride on these roads. 

Steel wheels provide a softer ride than cast aluminum.

I think it's the other way around.  Aluminum wheels are smoother due to the casting process whereas steel wheels have more give to them thus giving a less smooth ride.  Personally I don't think there's any significant difference in real world driving.  The potholes are going to hurt no matter what the rim is made of but at lest the thicker tire should cushion it a bit.  Sometimes I wonder if I would be more comfortable going off road here.

Right, steel wheels give more, therefore, a softer ride.  In my experience, the difference has been significant.   

[Dino]

I'll also need new rims and tires.  If anyone can tell me what the best parts are to make my ride smoother I'm all ears!  michigan has some of the worst roads in the country and I need as much cushion as I can get.  For that reason I have to go with 15" tires with a high sidewall.  My daily has 17" tires and it's a rough ride on these roads. 

Steel wheels provide a softer ride than cast aluminum.

I think it's the other way around.  Aluminum wheels are smoother due to the casting process whereas steel wheels have more give to them thus giving a less smooth ride.  Personally I don't think there's any significant difference in real world driving.  The potholes are going to hurt no matter what the rim is made of but at lest the thicker tire should cushion it a bit.  Sometimes I wonder if I would be more comfortable going off road here.

Right, steel wheels give more, therefore, a softer ride.  In my experience, the difference has been significant.   

Hmm I guess there's two schools of though then.  I don't have any experience with it as I've never switched the wheels on my car to find out.  Now that you mentioned it I will surely look into it but if you say the steel wheels feel softer then I have no issue excepting that.  And neither does my wallet! 

[Mike DC]

A few thoughts on the whole thread:


-  Power seats are overrated IMHO.  Decent comfy adjustable seats are not overrated.  The stock front buckets are also dangerously weak in the frames.  The backs will bend unacceptably if you get rear-ended.

- As a general statement, IMHO the electrical system deserves more attention than the old car hobby gives it.   

- Get a heated rear window defroster.

- Modern retractable seatbelts are a must. 

- The stuff that causes problems intermittently, and/or the car has to run for a while before the problem rears its head . . . this stuff usually stays too low on the to-do list.

[Dino]

Very good points Mike. Yes power seats are overrated.  I would only install it becuase it owuld be fun to make one from another car work but the parts will need to be dirt cheap.  Very low on the list that one is.

Electrical is high up there but I'm one of the lucky ones, my wiring looks absolutely fine, no hack jobs, no burnt wires and frankly everything has always worked.  That said, I do want to do things besides relays to make it safer.  Since I'm not an electrician I will have to do some more research this winter and figure out exactly what I need to do to safely add a new stereo, amp and speakers along with the new power stuff.

Heated rear window defroster?  You mean the copper strips?  I don't think I'd like the look of those and I don't think I'd ever need them.  The rear defogger I will be installing is something I don't need either but thought it was cool to have.   

I'm talking to a local upholstery guy and we're trying to redesign the foam in the seats so they look stock but give lateral support.  I know modern seats are more comfy and safe and all that but I want the interior looking stock.  The low buckets with headrests are one of my favorite features.

[1974dodgecharger]

to me the thread sounds more and more likea  touring setup than anything and that we all need more money......

[WHITE AND RED 69]

-Get those edelbrock shocks on asap. That will make a big difference on the road feel.
-You can get subframe connectors that do not require pulling the interior. I got mine from Hotchkis and it made the car feel WAY better. Less rattles and sqeaks too.
-Do some kind of sound deadening on the floor, trunk, and firewall. Dynamat, lizard skin, or any kind of insulation. It will cut down on heat and all those squeaks and rattles and make driving it much more comfortable.
-Look into more firm feel products, the steering box along with a set of tubular control arms and all new bushings will make the steering feel alot more solid.
-Dont count out new seats. You will never make the stock seats have the side supports a modern seat has. Look at the member Autodynamics thread, he did a modern seat with the pattern of a stock seat and it looks great.
-Get a set of XV motorsports 3 point seat belts. They will make it much more safer.
-Upgrade your electrical with relays, a slightly higher rated alternator with the proper wiring upgrades, and upgrade your headlights to a modern bulb. I have a set of H4 halogens with a painless perfromance wiring relay and it works great.
-As for your fuel problems, maybe try a new carb with electric choke for the morning idle problems. I know a lot of people dont like edelbrock carbs but I have a thunder series carb and love it. It is easy to tune, idles perfect right away, and the fuel smell isnt bad at all.

[Dino]

W&R I agree with all you said, except the seats, I'm not budging on the seats.    
If I would race it then it would be a no brainer but I need it to look stock, for me.  I'll get them to be more supportive though.

The seatbelts I have in mind are pretty generic aftermarket belts but they are retractable belts.  I'm not fond of the XV belts that hook up to the roof.  If they were the only solution then fine but there's better out there.

I'll look into the Hotchkis connectors.  What's the deal with the firm feel tubular arms?  I remeber they were pricey but that's a while ago but why are they so crucial?  If I need them I need them, I just need to know why.   

As for the carb, I have the 1407 Edelbrock.  It's reliable but I don't like it.  I've heard the thunder series is much better but I still have a very nice thermoquad I want to try.  If that fails then I'll likely skip all the carb stuff and go efi.

Sound deadening!  YES!  I have none of that and I can hear every squeek and rattle.  Not that they are that bad, the rear end whine is much more noticable, but yeah sound deadening would be nice.  It's the clunks when hitting potholes that are starting to become more noticable.  I'll get those shocks on as soon as it comes out of storage.  It's too cold now and I want to do some more work while I'm under the car.

[WHITE AND RED 69]

The tubular control arms will make the car a lot more stable and the steering will be more responsive. A lot less wandering feel when you get up to highway speeds. Firm feel sells them for like $300 bucks and offers a discount if you buy a bushing kit. There are lots of them on the market (firm feel, magnum force, pst, hotchkis, and a few other brands) so you have plenty to choose from. A set of these and a stage 2 or 3 steering box will make a huge improvement.   

[Dino]

The tubular control arms will make the car a lot more stable and the steering will be more responsive. A lot less wandering feel when you get up to highway speeds. Firm feel sells them for like $300 bucks and offers a discount if you buy a bushing kit. There are lots of them on the market (firm feel, magnum force, pst, hotchkis, and a few other brands) so you have plenty to choose from. A set of these and a stage 2 or 3 steering box will make a huge improvement.   

$300? Maybe I had something else in mind.  That's not bad for something as important as steering and I do need the bushing kit.  If any of these guys have holiday sales I may just get all the suspension stuff instead of a new interior. 

Do you have the stage 2 or 3? 

[Back N Black]

The tubular control arms will make the car a lot more stable and the steering will be more responsive. A lot less wandering feel when you get up to highway speeds. Firm feel sells them for like $300 bucks and offers a discount if you buy a bushing kit. There are lots of them on the market (firm feel, magnum force, pst, hotchkis, and a few other brands) so you have plenty to choose from. A set of these and a stage 2 or 3 steering box will make a huge improvement.   

What are you comparing it to? did you drive a charger with all new stock components and then one with aftermarket parts? a lot of people compare the old worn out steering and suspension to the new stuff and say wow this is great. I'm not trying to be a smart ass, just curious.

[WHITE AND RED 69]

I've got the stage 3 steering box from firm feel, I thought I made a mistake when I first installed it. Going from the loose stock box to the stage 3 was huge difference. Now after I got used to it I love the way it feels and could not go back.

What are you comparing it to? did you drive a charger with all new stock components and then one with aftermarket parts? a lot of people compare the old worn out steering and suspension to the new stuff and say wow this is great. I'm not trying to be a smart ass, just curious.

Let me first say that I am not trying to badtalk the stock setup(I like all builds-stock and modified), it works great but the aftermarket has improved so much on mopars over the last few years and the stuff out there actually does work on helping our cars handle better. I'm not trying to make everyone want a pro touring type build but a few aftermarket parts will improve the drivabilty and comfort of any car.

I will admit I have no comparison on the steering box. My old one was worn out since day one and never have driven a new stock one. But for the rest of the suspension I have compared it. When I bought my car everything was worn out and beat to hell, so I did a full suspension rebuild with all new Moog ball joints and rubber bushings on the stock parts and it made a big improvement. Drove it for a while and just felt that it was a little too loose feeling(especially on the highway) and wanted to improve on it. So then I went with all new Hotchkis parts, edelbrock shocks, frame connectors, bigger sway bars, bigger torsion bars, boxed lower control arms, poly bushings, and a stage 3 steering box and the handling improvement and road feel were WAY better. The grip, body roll, road feel, stability, steering input, and overall control over the car is awesome. The bigger wheels and tires I run help all that but I also ran it with all this a few month back on my old 15" magnums before I sold them and it still felt great. So i've driven worn out stock components, new stock components, and aftermarket ones. And comparing old to new, I like what the aftermarket has to offer.  

[Finn]

Your list sounds like most everything Ive done, haha.

-Edelbrock EFI
-4 wheel power disc brakes
-Frame connectors
-Toque boxes
-Sound deadening
-Firm Feel stage II
-Shockwaves (Airride) at all four.
-4 link suspension
-Tubular A-arms
-Aluminum triple core radiator with dual electric pushers
-New bushings everywhere
-Wheels/tires
-AC with new style compressor

[Back N Black]

I've got the stage 3 steering box from firm feel, I thought I made a mistake when I first installed it. Going from the loose stock box to the stage 3 was huge difference. Now after I got used to it I love the way it feels and could not go back.

What are you comparing it to? did you drive a charger with all new stock components and then one with aftermarket parts? a lot of people compare the old worn out steering and suspension to the new stuff and say wow this is great. I'm not trying to be a smart ass, just curious.

Let me first say that I am not trying to badtalk the stock setup(I like all builds-stock and modified), it works great but the aftermarket has improved so much on mopars over the last few years and the stuff out there actually does work on helping our cars handle better. I'm not trying to make everyone want a pro touring type build but a few aftermarket parts will improve the drivabilty and comfort of any car.

I will admit I have no comparison on the steering box. My old one was worn out since day one and never have driven a new stock one. But for the rest of the suspension I have compared it. When I bought my car everything was worn out and beat to hell, so I did a full suspension rebuild with all new Moog ball joints and rubber bushings on the stock parts and it made a big improvement. Drove it for a while and just felt that it was a little too loose feeling(especially on the highway) and wanted to improve on it. So then I went with all new Hotchkis parts, edelbrock shocks, frame connectors, bigger sway bars, bigger torsion bars, boxed lower control arms, poly bushings, and a stage 3 steering box and the handling improvement and road feel were WAY better. The grip, body roll, road feel, stability, steering input, and overall control over the car is awesome. The bigger wheels and tires I run help all that but I also ran it with all this a few month back on my old 15" magnums before I sold them and it still felt great. So i've driven worn out stock components, new stock components, and aftermarket ones. And comparing old to new, I like what the aftermarket has to offer.  

Thanks for the information. it makes my decision easier with regards to upgrades. 

[1974dodgecharger]

I agree, technology today and innovation is drastically improved and those improvements have spilled over to old cars.  I think its great....I mean what we think now is great in 20 years the stuff will be better than it is now.

I've got the stage 3 steering box from firm feel, I thought I made a mistake when I first installed it. Going from the loose stock box to the stage 3 was huge difference. Now after I got used to it I love the way it feels and could not go back.

What are you comparing it to? did you drive a charger with all new stock components and then one with aftermarket parts? a lot of people compare the old worn out steering and suspension to the new stuff and say wow this is great. I'm not trying to be a smart ass, just curious.

Let me first say that I am not trying to badtalk the stock setup(I like all builds-stock and modified), it works great but the aftermarket has improved so much on mopars over the last few years and the stuff out there actually does work on helping our cars handle better. I'm not trying to make everyone want a pro touring type build but a few aftermarket parts will improve the drivabilty and comfort of any car.

I will admit I have no comparison on the steering box. My old one was worn out since day one and never have driven a new stock one. But for the rest of the suspension I have compared it. When I bought my car everything was worn out and beat to hell, so I did a full suspension rebuild with all new Moog ball joints and rubber bushings on the stock parts and it made a big improvement. Drove it for a while and just felt that it was a little too loose feeling(especially on the highway) and wanted to improve on it. So then I went with all new Hotchkis parts, edelbrock shocks, frame connectors, bigger sway bars, bigger torsion bars, boxed lower control arms, poly bushings, and a stage 3 steering box and the handling improvement and road feel were WAY better. The grip, body roll, road feel, stability, steering input, and overall control over the car is awesome. The bigger wheels and tires I run help all that but I also ran it with all this a few month back on my old 15" magnums before I sold them and it still felt great. So i've driven worn out stock components, new stock components, and aftermarket ones. And comparing old to new, I like what the aftermarket has to offer.  

[cdr]

well my build so far,stroker bb,EFI-,a518 overdrive,rack & pinion steering,alum 4 row radiator,sanden ac compressor electric cooling fans,rewire charging system,wheels & tires.converted my stock shifter to cable,changed the kick down linkage to cable also. link to my shifter mod http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,90798.msg1028726.html#msg1028726
 more to come as money allows
torque boxes
frame connectors
4 wheel disc
large sway bars

[Homerr]

Great thread, I'm bookmarking it for future reference as I'd like to build a driver.

Some questions -

Do 2nd gens have a remote hood release available? not so enthusiastic about someone popping the hood for a peek, or worse.

What has everyone done about the inside sides of the trunk - so that anything loose doesn't give an outward ding?  Back when I had my '69 I always carried some tools and had some cardboard boxes and the fender work covers wedged all around so nothing would move.  Not elegant, but it worked.

Has anyone done sound deadening in the roof?

[HANDM]

As for the ride, I have all original components (rebuilt of course) and couldn't be happier. After all it is a 43 year old car.

The frying of the ECU/ regulator issue I'll figure out in time.

I put frost king duct wrap on the floors, cowl, doors and roof and it is dead quiet on the inside

[Bob T]

Your list sounds like most everything Ive done, haha.

-Edelbrock EFI
-4 wheel power disc brakes
-Frame connectors
-Toque boxes
-Sound deadening
-Firm Feel stage II
-Shockwaves (Airride) at all four.
-4 link suspension
-Tubular A-arms
-Aluminum triple core radiator with dual electric pushers
-New bushings everywhere
-Wheels/tires
-AC with new style compressor

Thats quite a list Finn, is there a thread running somewhere on here on it , starting to get a bit more interested in EFI setups. Cheers

[Dino]

Homerr, the '70 has a cable release for the hood, I was actually thinking about doing that myself for the very same reason.

Keep this going fellas, real good ideas here.  I'd like to hear more about EFI as well. 

As far as my suspension goes, the bushings are all original as far as I know, ie they're done for.  My steering pump however was rebuild just before I bought the car.  Except for the overassisted power steering it's pretty stable.

[bill440rt]

I only made what some would consider "minor" improvements but the difference has been a drastic improvement.

-Keisler 4-spd auto OD
-Hotchkis sway bars
-Wilwood 6-piston 4-wheel discs w/hydroboost (HUGE improvement!)
- A/C
- aluminum strut rods & tie rod sleeves w/C-body ends
- Stage2 steering box from Steer-n-Gear
- aluminum rad w/dual pullers
- bigger wheels/tires (18" & 19")
- sound deadener
- poly bushings
- KYB gas shocks, might swap these out for Eddy's or Bilsteins in the future
- HID's
- frame connectors
- 100-amp one wire alt w/Painless inline fuse

Sometimes I wish I upgraded the seats to something more modern. The car handles great, the only thing slowing it down is lack of support on the seats. Gotta hold on a bit thru the turns. Another upgrade, perhaps in the future.
Other than a disc brake conversion & poly bushings, my '68 is completely stock. Going from one car to the next is like night & day.

[Dino]

Little update, I just received word from my upholstery guy that he can custom make the seat foam for the low buckets.  He uses a firm type of foam to build the side bolsters while using a softer foam for the center so in effect it looks like a plain stock seat but when you sit in it it collapses the back so you're secure between the bolsters.  He says he's done several of them and they work fine.  It's not recaro secure but it'll keep you in your seat under normal driving conditions.

Bill, what's the story on: aluminum strut rods & tie rod sleeves w/C-body ends ?

[JB400]

Before I post my to do list, would someone tell me what's wrong with these cars to begin with.  My mods are more safety related or more out of curiosity.  Other than that, I drive an old car to be driving an old car.  If I want to drive a car that is quiet, I'd drive the daily driver. Why change a good thing.

[bill440rt]

Dino, the C-body rods are beefier than B-body. Larger diameter means less flex. 
Same with aluminum strut rods, & lighter. I was told they are stronger than the steel rods.
Good to know on the seats!

Stroker, there's nothing necessarily "wrong" with these cars, as far as old cars go most Chargers/B-bodies I've been in have been very quiet at least when compared to E-bodies or other makes. It's the other nimrods on the road to watch out for, & upgrading for safety reasons isn't necessarily a bad thing. All depends on personal tastes and the car you are modifying. Most people wouldn't start modifying an original HEMI car or other rarity. I LOVE driving my '68, too. Still has that old car feel.

[Dino]

Before I post my to do list, would someone tell me what's wrong with these cars to begin with.  My mods are more safety related or more out of curiosity.  Other than that, I drive an old car to be driving an old car.  If I want to drive a car that is quiet, I'd drive the daily driver. Why change a good thing.

There is not a lot wrong with the stock setup although things like old electrical do pose safety issues.  I love driving my old car but some things just need to be updated.  If you think of it, it's nothing all that drastic.  Better suspension, better steering, better tires.  I drive my car a ton and at this rate it's going to fall apart on these Michigan roads unless I beef the sucker up.  The power stuff I'm adding is simply for comfort.  These options were available in '69 and I would have ordered them.  My a/c is being upgraded to a newer system because the original parts are made of unobtainium and I want the a/c to work on r134a instead of r12.
The sole reason why I bought a 318 mutt with the original engine missing was so I could modify it to my taste.  For the occasional cruiser I would say make sure the brakes work properly, that's all you really need to do.

Good to know Bill, thanks for the info!   

[tan top]

  heres what i think !
A means i've  already fitted it
B will fit it some time
C good idea but never going on my charger

A  firmfeel steering box
A  polly bushings , but on  lower control arm pivot use OEM  rubber bushing
A  thicker sway bars & rear bar
A   thicker 1" steel strutrods
A  frame connectors
A  torque boxes
B  modern three point inertia seatbelts
A  lower control arm reinforcement plates
B  5 speed manual or gear vendors ,
B  tubular upper control arms
B  hydroboost with four wheel discs
B  edelbrock or bilsteine shocks
A  mad ampmeter by pass or something along them lines
B  japanese alternator , that charges at low idle speed or OEM style that does same job
B  EFI fuel injection
C  modern seats ,  recaro or similar  trimed to match the rear
B  halogen headlights
B  big aluminum radiator
B  serpentine drive belt / pulley set up
C 16 inch wheels , widest rubber that fits ,
A 1inch plus torsion bars
A heavy duty rear  springs
B  OEM radio  converted with modern guts
A electronic ignition

[Back N Black]

 heres what i think !
A means i've  already fitted it
B will fit it some time
C good idea but never going on my charger

A  firmfeel steering box
A  polly bushings
A  thicker sway bars & rear bar
A   thicker 1" steel strutrods
A  frame connectors
A  torque boxes
B  modern three point inertia seatbelts
A  lower control arm reinforcement plates
B  5 speed manual or gear vendors ,
B  tubular upper control arms
B  hydroboost with four wheel discs
B  edelbrock or bilsteine shocks
A  mad ampmeter by pass or something along them lines
B  japanese alternator , that charges at low idle speed or OEM style that does same job
B  EFI fuel injection
C  modern seats ,  recaro or similar  trimed to match the rear
B  halogen headlights
B  big aluminum radiator
B  serpentine drive belt / pulley set up
C 16 inch wheels , widest rubber that fits ,
A 1inch plus torsion bars
A heavy duty rear  springs
B  OEM radio  converted with modern guts

Love this thread! Tan Top, great list.When i started my restoration i wanted everything stock, but after driving the car i think the upgrades are in order. I want it to STOP and STEER like a modern car.  

P.S. Off the line and hauling ass, no problems!

[Mike DC]

Michigan roads -

Stiffen the chassis as much as possible.  XV Motorsports did the research on this and figured out where the most effective gains are:  Subframe connectors, factory "torque box" rocker panel plates, and a brace between the front subframes (lower rad support area).  All of these things can be done without hacking up the existing unibody, just welding some additional things onto it.

Putting a brace between the firewall/doorjamb area and the front shock towers helps too.  But IMHO it's probably not quite as critical as the other stuff above since you still have the factory T-bar front end.


Poly vs rubber suspension parts . . . this is a big debate of its own and I won't try to start it here.  But I personally think there are a couple of areas that are better left rubber even if you put poly everywhere else:  The LCA bushing in front, and the front spring eyes on the rear leafs.  (And check that LCA mounting area on the K-frame for metal fatigue.  It may need beefing up.)

[tan top]

Michigan roads -

Stiffen the chassis as much as possible.  XV Motorsports did the research on this and figured out where the most effective gains are:  Subframe connectors, factory "torque box" rocker panel plates, and a brace between the front subframes (lower rad support area).  All of these things can be done without hacking up the existing unibody, just welding some additional things onto it.

Putting a brace between the firewall/doorjamb area and the front shock towers helps too.  But IMHO it's probably not quite as critical as the other stuff above since you still have the factory T-bar front end.


Poly vs rubber suspension parts . . . this is a big debate of its own and I won't try to start it here.  But I personally think there are a couple of areas that are better left rubber even if you put poly everywhere else:  The LCA bushing in front, and the front spring eyes on the rear leafs.  (And check that LCA mounting area on the K-frame for metal fatigue.  It may need beefing up.)

yes that true  ,

lower control arm best left  stock OEM rubber bushing , thought  they stopped selling polly for the control arm pivot ,that's why never mentioned it !! remember when i was ordering all the stuff for mine 12 + years ago , there was a big debate  going on , polly not locating the lower control arm , allowing it to move under braking etc,  when i phoned up to order front end kit from PST & said i wanted pollygraphite , they said , we are no longer doing polly only rubber for the lower control arm , then said whats been happening , then read it in a one ot two of the mopar mags at the time ,  will amend list , also for got to put electronic ignition , cause i'm assuming every one got it by now , except  oem gold type restos

[GL0169]

I have been driving my 69 charger for 25 years now as a daily driver -it take a lot of up keep so it will run nice- over the years i have replaced just about ever thing on the car you can replace twice  ( suspension- wires- engine parts)- it take s alot of wear and tear as a daily driver - but the satisfaction and the attention i get is so great - my 69 charger is the only car i have driven for the last 25 years - i don't know what i would do if couldn't  drive it -just drive it and fix it as you go along - use the part you think you will like - i use parts from local part stores or if i need to the internet - i run a 440 built 15 years ago (just broken in about now ) a holley 700 double pumper - all new wiring all around ( the wiring under the dash is a great buy if you have the money) - transmission was just rebuild after running for 23 years - flowmaster 3 inch exhaust - just put new Firehawks 500 on and new suspension parts- i allways run Royal Purple 20-50 oil - and just put new hose for raidiator - here in New Mexico it was past the 100 degrees this summer but my 69 run cool in the 180 to 190 - it take some TLC but it so fun to drive - 

[UH60L]

After buying mine, one of the first things was to put disc brakes on the front, huge difference.  Mine didn't have a rear sway abr, so I put one on.  Those two things plus new shocks made it pretty decent.

Now that it's midway through re-build, I'm thinking about putting dynamat inside as many panels as I can.  I've been told it makes a big difference.

I'm not sure if I should put aftermarket suspension bushings and such on, I've heard some of them make the ride really rough.  Mine isn't being built as a race car, more of a driver/car cruise/show car/any time the sun is shining find an excuse to drive it car.   

Crazy enough, I kind of got used to driving it with no power steering or power brakes.  (though one time I got a little sideways (ok 180 degrees around!) and the steering snapped back and whacked my hand against the window, oops!)

[Finn]

Your list sounds like most everything Ive done, haha.

-Edelbrock EFI
-4 wheel power disc brakes
-Frame connectors
-Toque boxes
-Sound deadening
-Firm Feel stage II
-Shockwaves (Airride) at all four.
-4 link suspension
-Tubular A-arms
-Aluminum triple core radiator with dual electric pushers
-New bushings everywhere
-Wheels/tires
-AC with new style compressor

Thats quite a list Finn, is there a thread running somewhere on here on it , starting to get a bit more interested in EFI setups. Cheers

There's bits and pieces here and there. I need to create a build thread one of these days. Any questions though, feel free to message me.

[Bob T]

Thats quite a list Finn, is there a thread running somewhere on here on it , starting to get a bit more interested in EFI setups. Cheers
[/quote]

There's bits and pieces here and there. I need to create a build thread one of these days. Any questions though, feel free to message me.
[/quote]

Ok Thanks, will do when I get closer to ''the time''