trans kickdown

[73chargercali]

i bought a TCI streetfighter transmission that has a manual/automatic valve body. i didn't hook up the kickdown yet and was wondering if i manually shift the gears would that be good enough? i have driven the car a few times and noticed that after driving for about 5 miles the pan and transmission case was very hot, i could touch it be not for long. i heard that the transmission operates at around 180 F.

the trans gives me complete control of my shifts so i only use 3rd for cruising and 2nd for passing.

[John_Kunkel]

Once again the term "kickdown" hooks another victim. The linkage is not only for kickdown.

The linkage between the carb and the trans is absolutely necessary, it raises the internal pressure to handle the additional power as the throttle is opened, running without it will kill the trans in short order.

The manual/automatic term is just a marketing gimmick, it doesn't mean that manual shifting can eliminate the need for the throttle pressure linkage.

[73chargercali]

thanks john i had hoped that i wouldn't have to run the linkage. now that i have it installed i have driven the car a few times, i can only get it to kick down occasionally on flat ground, on mountains it just won't downshift so i manually put it in second, do you have any advice?

also when the members here take their cars to the track do they disconnect their linkages to get better control of their shifts? mine are sloppy now.

[John_Kunkel]

thanks john i had hoped that i wouldn't have to run the linkage. now that i have it installed i have driven the car a few times, i can only get it to kick down occasionally on flat ground, on mountains it just won't downshift so i manually put it in second, do you have any advice?

Installing the linkage is only half the job, it must be adjusted correctly. If it won't kickdown to 2nd the linkage needs adjusting; lengthen the top rod.

also when the members here take their cars to the track do they disconnect their linkages to get better control of their shifts? mine are sloppy now.

Those members will be visiting the transmission shop in the near future, the track is the absolute last place you'd want to be running without linkage.

Once again, the linkage increases the transmission's internal pressure to match the throttle opening; disconnecting at the track means you're running at full throttle with the internal pressure set for idle. Sure way to fry a transmission.

[deathcharger71]

if you have a manual valve body you dont need the kickdown do you?

[Ghoste]

That's a completely different monster.  To oversimplify, it has no automatic functions so the need to regulate internal pressure isn't needed.  The kickdown, as we call it, works in conjunction with other portions of the valve body to help determine when the shifts are to occur automatically.  Like I said, it's oversimplifying but the long and short of it is that if it is a true manual valve body with no automatic shifting provisions, then you can run without that linkage.   If there is any automatic function in your trans then you absolutely must have it.

[73chargercali]

ok i adjusted the kick down a couple days ago and now it shifts easily through the gears and still kicks down when the gas is about 3/4 the way down under 40mph. i have looked in my shop manual for the charger and didn't come across any thing giving a answer to how to adjust it properly, so is there a way to be sure its right or is it just a hit miss adjustment? once again thanks for the help.

[Ghoste]

Your shop manual should have it at the beginning of the section on automatic transmissions if it is from the fsm.  It will be under throttle linkage adjustment.
If you still can't find it, I think it has been posted on here someplace a long time back.  Being siad, it is also to a certain degree a hit and miss operation as you called it.  Wear from new and other alterations can make for a different requirement than stock-day one.

[John_Kunkel]

With the carb at warm idle position and the trans lever full forward, adjust the top rod so that the rear of the slot rests against the throttle stud. Be sure there is a spring to pull the linkage forward.
From the initial setting, the linkage can be adjusted to tune the part throttle upshift points to suit the individual. If the trans will kickdown at WOT from top gear at around 40 mph, the pressures are high enough to prevent any damage

[mikepmcs]

I've taken some pics of my throttle linkage cause i'm having some issues(will not shift) as well adjusting.  I read the threads and I know mine is all jacked up and if I understand right this is 180 off(slot in front vice slot in rear touching the pin) in these pics the car is not running . any help would be appreciated.
thanks
v/r
Mike

oh forgot to add that I cannot adjust it so the rear of the slot rests against the pin, is my throttle linkage bad/wrong.... is there an adjustment elswhere from there to the trans that I can adjust?
thanks

[firefighter3931]

Mike, the adjustment still needs some tweaking. You want the back of the slider to be resting against the stud so you will have to unthread it to get it right. The slider should be free to move on the stud so you need to remove that nut & bolt. The idea is to have the kickdown adjusted so that when the throttle is wide open, there is a slight amount of free play left in the kickdown linkage. To keep the kickdown linkage snug you have to install a second spring to keep the back of the slider resting against the stud.

The first image in this diagram is what it should look like when properly adjusted.


Ron

[Todd Wilson]

The last picture to me looks like he doesnt have a spring on the slider portion to pull it forward. #13 spring in the diagram.

A picture left over from another post.




Todd

[mikepmcs]

Thanks Ron and Todd, yeah mine is pretty jacked up now that i see these pics and schematics, looks like i need another spring too.  i'll keep ya'll posted on the results.

thanks again
v/r
Mike

[John_Kunkel]

Mikes linkage appears to have originally been from a 2-barrel, when a 4-barrel is installed the top rod will be too short.

The bolt in the slot is one way to lengthen the rod but it defeats the purpose of the slot which is to allow the linkage to work independently of the carb. IOW, with the carb pin free to move in the slot the carb can return to idle if the linkage becomes bound up. Also the bolt limits the adjustment range.

Simply lenghtening the top rod will return the proper function and adjustment range.

[mikepmcs]

Thanks John as well, that makes sense about the 2 BBL and the rod being too short.  I adjusted it and still had to use the bolt acting as the rear of the slot cause I can't screw it out any more than it is.  Here's some new pics of my b@$tard set-up.  Like I said, I know that bolt is still there but it isn't holding anything just acting as a spacer, and at least now it has room to travel if the linkage gets jammed(like it did yesterday before I made this change)phew that sucked!
So i adjusted it to look more correct anyways and it still will not kick down for lack of better words.  Is there something else wrong cause I can see the linkage doing what it's supposed to statically at the tranny.  Is it possible that it's hooked up too far back on the tranny side, like is there a gear tooth I can move the little clamp to get more out of it down there(that #11 in the first pic in the first diagram that Ron sent.)  I hope that makes sense.

Thanks for the help
v/r
Mike

[Todd Wilson]

Mikes linkage appears to have originally been from a 2-barrel, when a 4-barrel is installed the top rod will be too short.

The bolt in the slot is one way to lengthen the rod but it defeats the purpose of the slot which is to allow the linkage to work independently of the carb. IOW, with the carb pin free to move in the slot the carb can return to idle if the linkage becomes bound up. Also the bolt limits the adjustment range.

Simply lenghtening the top rod will return the proper function and adjustment range.

I'd like to learn more about the linkage John?!   I was only aware of the 1 peice and the 3 piece setup.   Didnt think there was a 2b or 4 b setups.   I hunted years ago for a setup for my truck and ended up having to find a 3 piece unit.

What all is out there?


Todd