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dash pad removal?

Started by Lord Warlock, October 05, 2012, 08:10:38 PM

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Lord Warlock

The more i look at the dashpad, the more I'm coming to the conclusion that it needs to be replaced, especially now that repops are available with the inner support structure.  The problem is that i can't figure out how to get to the 6 bolts that attach it, does the dash cluster need to be out to reach them? the inner glovebox liner? the radio? since mine is an ac car, there really isn't much space behind the dash to reach up there, even without some of the ducting.  I don't believe i'm ready to drop the entire dash frame, that seems like an involved job, even with the windshield currently out of the car. 

The inner glovebox liner is out already, the radio i can get out easy enough with only the loss of some skin on the knuckles, and i've taken an instrument cluster out before but don't want to screw up the stock one in this car.  the seats are loose so can easily move them out of the way, but i'm not dropping the steering column.

How do you guys get this out?
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

rebby

You have to go through the top inner part of the dash. I waited until I had my dash out of the car and, quite honestly, I don't know how you would do it with the dash in the car. You might be able to get the old o e off but getting the new o e on would be a chore.

The dash itself is a pretty easy R&R, just the bolts along the windshield and one on each end by the doors. If at all possible, that's the route that I would suggest.
Curt Rebelein, Junior
1969 Charger R/T SE (500 Stroker/833/D60 w/XP VIN)
1969 Charger (440/727/8.75, GL Project)

Fred

It can be done without taking the dash frame out (I've done it). You need plenty of patience and a little bit of know how.


Tomorrow is promised to no one.......drive your Charger today.

HANDM

Pull the cluster, radio and glove box liner......

Reach up and between the frame with a 3/8 (I think) on a 6 inch 1/4 drive extension and feel yer way around till you find nuts, not sure but I think there are six....

Lord Warlock

does the frame itself come loose if the sides and front along windshield are removed? The glass is out right now so can reach those pretty easy, not sure about the side ones, does the radio and cluster need to be removed first? When i took the bolts off the front of the dash, it was still firmly attached so figured there was more i was missing.  Would be nice if i could just rotate it backward and work through the bolts that way, disconnecting all the dash parts takes a risk of breaking something important that is expensive to replace.  I gave away the extra dash cluster i had to a needy mopar owner, as i figured it was more honest to keep the miles on the odometer that were on the body rather than the motor. Wish i still had it though. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

bill440rt

You can't really just "rotate" the dash frame down. It's either in, or out. The dash frame is held in with 5 bolts across the top, & one on each side at the hinge pillars. That's it.
Like Fred said, it CAN be done in the car but it's one of those tedious jobs.

Dash cluster, out (have to drop the steering column to do this).
Radio & ashtray, out.
Heater/AC controls, out.
Glove box, out.

Basically you'll just have the dash frame staring back at you. Use a 1/4" ratchet with either a swivel extension or use a wobble extension, I've found that works best. May need deep sockets also.
Reach up across the top, feel for the studs sticking thru with the speed nuts on them. Pretty sure they are 3/8". Be prepared for skinned knuckles & bleeding.
If you think getting it out is bad, wait 'til you put it back in!
 
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

rebby

I just did this last week. They are 3/8". Best of luck if you decide to do this in the car. I can see getting it off that way. Back on, we'll that's another story altogether and something that I probably wouldn't attempt. Sounds like it can be done though. Good Luck!
Curt Rebelein, Junior
1969 Charger R/T SE (500 Stroker/833/D60 w/XP VIN)
1969 Charger (440/727/8.75, GL Project)

Lord Warlock

I'm still letting my knuckles heal from the last job installing the mirrors and door handles.  Its going on the list of things to do though, before i put the windshield back in.  I could always pay the interior shop guy (who just installed the vinyl top recently) to do it, but he's as old as i am and probably would dislike the task as much a i would.
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

bill440rt

There are a few tricks I've found that make the job of reinstallation a little smoother.
Use a magnetic socket to hold the speed nut in place. Or... use a little piece of masking tape wrapped around the socket to just barely hold the nut in place. Start the nut on the stud, then pull the socket off, remove the tape, & finish tightening it. That's the low-buck method I use. Keeps you from dropping your nuts & your frustration level down.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Troy

I managed to change the dash pad on my 68 twice without removing the dash. You need a couple long extensions and at least one universal joint (or "wobble" extensions). You can reach 3-4 of the nuts by removing the gauge cluster and the others by removing the glove box liner. I have small hands and can contort myself to fit under the dash though.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

oldschool

Quote from: HANDM on October 06, 2012, 06:49:48 PM
Pull the cluster, radio and glove box liner......

Reach up and between the frame with a 3/8 (I think) on a 6 inch 1/4 drive extension and feel yer way around till you find nuts, not sure but I think there are six....
thats exactly how i did mine. it's not that bad......
1968 cuda formula S bb 4-sp                          1968 Charger R/T 500" 4-sp
1970 Charger 580" 4-sp
1970 Cuda Convertible 500" 4-sp
1970 Cuda Convertible 500" 4-sp
TOO MUCH HORSEPOWER, IS ALMOST ENOUGH!

PlainfieldCharger

1/4 Drive with tape and a mini mag light with small angle mirror. Took me about 15 min to get it off and 45 min to reinstall. Not a bad job. Just need Cluster, control panel and glove box removed first.

stripedelete

It will help to know they are speed nuts.