How to do a 4 speed swap...with pictures!

[AKcharger]

Here's some info on converting an auto to 4 speed.  My car is completely different with the 4 speed, best thing I've done to the car... I love it!!  

TIME- Total time is about 20 hours of work for two competent mopar people. With my pal Stan, whose's done a few conversions before, and myself it took 13 hours of straight work from the time we rolled it into the garage until it rolled out under its own power, although with much work left to do. Add in another 7-8 hours to weld in hump, install carpet and do some other stuff.

COST- $2600.  Used trans, bell housing, peddles, linkage and new pistol grip shifter $1200. New flywheel, clutch assay, tunnel and multiple small parts $1000. Used 4 speed console $300, oil, paint, misc stuff $100.


1) Ok, need to gut the interior, that's the easy part
2)  Pull auto trans...good riddance! Then cut hole and trim the console bracket
3) Install bellhousing and do run-out check! That is use off-set dowels to ensure bellhousing is aligned with crank. I didn't know this when I did this in high school, maybe that's why my car shifted so bad?
4) Clutch bar bracket is welded in (no picture) and install clutch assy

[AKcharger]

5) Installation of pedals, wasn't too bad but I had 66 charger pedals and i thought they should have been the same as '70...a B-body is a B-body right? Not really. Seems '69-'70 pedals have an additional bracket to secure the steering colum to the dash. The good news is all I had to do was remove the bracket holding the clutch pedal from my '66 set up (the nice blacked painted one one the right) and bolt it to my auto pedals. So lesson is the pedal frames for auto/manual is the same. Oh, don't forget that little stiffener plate that goes on the firewall.
6) Trans installation pretty straight forward except for the rear cross member. Now the cross members are different BUT you can do some cutting and save yourself $100.  Take a look at the pictures, you can see the manual cross member on the bottom/left and my automatic cross member on the top/right...clearly different. But simply cut out the center and the mount drops right in! Oh, make sure shifter is rigged properly when trans is out, easier than laying on your back!

[AKcharger]

7) As for the interior;  if you already have a console YOU DO NOT NEED TO BUY A NEW ONE all you need is to cut out the spot for the shifter and drill holes for the different trim. I thought they were different so I bought another one. I  could have just got the one trim piece and that side cover. Same for carpet, i bought a new 4 speed carpet instead of using my old one. Yes the  4 speed carpet does have the hump molded in but under the console you cant see it, I could have save some more money reusing my auto carpet. One neat trick for carpet...my pal uses a soldering iron to mark the seat belt and seat mount holes, makes nice big easily distinguished holes and cauterizes the carpet,   i thought that was brilliant. Oh, if you want to save another $500 make your own 4speed top you can do this:  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,10086.0.html

All-in-all it went very well. We did have a few bumps but all were minor.  Again, I'm ecstatic, I love it.

Questions?

[tan top]

 been busy Dude 
   sort of thinking about  swapping to  4  speed my self , one day 
thanks for sharing the pictures !! good wright up  ,
good stuff 

[oldschool]

nice work... on a different note, i love that burnt orange interior  .

[69rtse4spd]

Nice job & thanks for posting & the helpful tips. .

[1970Moparmann]

Great write up.  Thanks for sharing. 

[Chryco Psycho]

I have too many of these swaps , it sure makes for a whole different car when it is done !!

[Dino]

Very nice!

So I guess you need the hump if you're using an original 4 speed? 

[AKcharger]

Correct Dino. While the new 5 speeds are top loaders and will be centered in the hump, the A-833 is a side loader. You can see from the below picture the hump is a must.

[Dino]

Correct Dino. While the new 5 speeds are top loaders and will be centered in the hump, the A-833 is a side loader. You can see from the below picture the hump is a must.

That's good to know that I would have to cut the console to make it fit.  Great write up by the way.  I would tackle this myself if I had a lift and someone beside me who knew about this stuff.

[Cooter]

This should be a damn sticky. Good freakin' write up! Even had the "Conversion" on the crossmember and the fact that the pedal cages are the same. I NEVER swap the cages, just the longer bolt and pedals.


Again, awesome write up!

[Chryco Psycho]

Done 

[moparstuart]

 Thanks for the info  great tips and on a budget just my style

[AKcharger]

Best money and time I've ever spent!

[1BAD68]

Awesome thread. I always thought about doing this just for the "FUN" factor but thought it would be too involved.
Now I'm really considering it.
Thanks   

[AKcharger]

Here's a parts list to do the conversion. It is lenghy but completly broken down. Often times these parts will come as a kit. DON"T BE INTIMIDATED...ITS WORTH IT!!


Clutch
- Bellhousing
- Offset dowels for bellhousing alignment, usually  0.007
- Pilot bushing for end of crank
- Clutch Assy (usually comes as set with pack and throw out bearing)
- Clutch fork
- Clutch fork boot
- Bellhousing fork pivot
- Torque shaft (Z-bar)
- Torque shaft service kit
- Flywheel w/bolts
- Clutch adjusting rod assembly (Rod, nuts, clips, grommet and spring)
- Steel dust cover with bolts
- Fork Spring

Transmission
- Transmission w/B-body tailshaft
- Shifter with rods, clips, etc.
- Shifter handle
- Transmission mount

Console/interior
- 4 speed console or modify your current automatic console
- Console plastic/fiberglass side cover
- 4 speed side cover console chrome trim
- Console 4 speed top cover
- Console shifter boot
- Console decals
- Carpet
- Console carpet
- Clutch rod Boot
- 'Lil "reverse" light on dash if you want to be authentic

Structural
- Clutch pedal assembly
- Clutch Pedal firewall stiffener bracket (goes through firewall)
- Rubber pads for pedal faces
- Floor tunnel  (weld in)
- Frame ballstud bracket (weld in)
- Torque Shaft ball stud and nut
- Lower Shifter boot

Consumables to Purchase
- Interior Paint
- Plastic Adhesion Promoter
- Plastic repair kit (if using an old console...trust me it's cracked somewhere)
- Semi-gloss black paint
- 3M spray adhesive
-0000 steel wool
- Simple Green
- Masking tape

[Rolling_Thunder]

To add to the list above 

You forgot to mention the Clutch Pedal Pushrod   


Also - if converting from a column shift auto to a 4-speed you will need different steering column collar pieces.


Also would like to mention if you are converting a 904 automatic to 4-speed you will need to shorten your driveshaft ~2"

I plan on swapping my 68 Satellite convertible to a 4-speed as well...   non console.   

[hemi68charger]

Great write up Chief.......
Maybe I'll do this if I keep my 500... Well, I WILL if I keep the 500.. I have all the necessary items for the conversion... '69-style........

[AKcharger]

Great write up Chief.......
Maybe I'll do this if I keep my 500... Well, I WILL if I keep the 500.. I have all the necessary items for the conversion... '69-style........

You'll LOVE it!

[Finn]

Great write up, a manual is on my "eventually" list. 

[Lighthorseman]

I hope to undertake this project over the winter, and this will be invaluble information.   

One quick question - will the existing driveshaft from my 383 column shift work with a 440 - 833 combo, or will I have to have it modified?

 

[tallhair]

All-in-all it went very well. We did have a few bumps but all were minor.  Again, I'm ecstatic, I love it.

thanks!  excellent pictures

[Cooter]

One quick question - will the existing driveshaft from my 383 column shift work with a 440 - 833 combo, or will I have to have it modified?

 

In theory it SHOULD....I know the splines in a 727 and A833 are the same. Lengths should be the same as well, or VERY close to it.

[Lighthorseman]

Thanks, Cooter!