Link to a good read on Alt/charging issues/understanding

[b5blue]

 I got a charge out of reading this. (Yes, a bad pun intended!) Given all the recent (More like constant.) alternator and charging system questions when I stumbled across this I figured I'd throw you guys a link that Rick E. put much work into. It's too late for me as I switched to a sweet 120amp Denso Alt. to keep my Charger charged, however many still need this and it's very well written.

                                                      www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

  I will add that by using the salt and vinegar cleaning solution to remove corrosion from all electrical connectors (Search: "salt and vinegar" for my topic.) and following up with Caig Lab. DeoxIt D-100 has given my car very good results for electrical performance and reliability. (All but my engine harness is original 1970.)
                                                       www.caig.com

[Nacho-RT74]

actually is an ooooooooold article

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

School me on this step.....what does this do exactly?

5. Connect a fusible link to the starter relay stud. Crimp-splice in a piece of suitable (heavy-gauge) wire, and connect the other end to the alternator stud. That's it....firewall problems bypassed forever!

[Nacho-RT74]

get the loads to recharge the batt out of the ammeter and bulkhead, because current will go straight to the less resistance wiring, which is the ammeter jumper described.

In case of a batt discharge, this jumper will recharge the batt without affect the bulkhead terminaks and ammeter

Is what lot of ppl makes, going straight from alt to starter relay, this time with a fuse link for protection.

HOWEVER, the main splice source, being inside the cab will be feeded through the bulkhead, THERE IS NOT A WAY TO SWAY THAT with the jumper wire. You are maybe spreading out a liitle bit the loads through the wiring, but power is sitill going through the bulkhead.

this is a Big help mainly if you hooked accesories straight to the batt which has been the BIG MISTAKE SINCE EVER. 

not necesary if you make the things on the right way, so I have to be disagree with RE, like I have explained dozens ot times

[b5blue]

School me on this step.....what does this do exactly?

5. Connect a fusible link to the starter relay stud. Crimp-splice in a piece of suitable (heavy-gauge) wire, and connect the other end to the alternator stud. That's it....firewall problems bypassed forever!

It's like giving a small road to somewhere another larger road to get there. A 2nd path from Alt. to Batt. if you will, AMP reading at the gauge will be off though.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Mine is disco'd anyway....I have a volt meter under the dash.

One day Ill do the "conversion" tot he factory gauge

I might just do this as some added protection....

[sebarger]

Where do you guys get your fusible links? Mad Electric seems out of business and I'm having a hard time finding them online at places like JEGS?

Also on the subject of upgrades, any advice on the relays to get for the headlight upgrade greatly appreciated as well. Thanks!

[b5blue]

Try NAPA.