572 HEMI going in my new build

[Daytona Guy]

I agree if I were to buy a Hemi it would be from FHO and steer clear of Indy, way too high priced for what you get from them. Looking great Dane!

I went to their site and they did not make a 572 or it was some crazy build. I have to say they need some real help on their webpage, very uninformative.

Dane

[Charger-Bodie]

Their focus is on Hemi engines. The website is pretty vaugue, Just call and talk to Tim. He is a very personable guy to ask the things you want to know about going with a Hemi.

[Scaregrabber]

Tim at FHO wants to talk to you in person so he can custom build an engine to suit you better. That's why he doesn't have a generic, feel good website just to make a sale like some others. I have been dealing with Tim for quite a long time as well and I have never seen better workmanship. I also strongly recommend you talk to him. We all work too hard for our money to not get the best value we can.

Sheldon

[Rolling_Thunder]

Not sure what rockers Indy uses on these builds but if they're anything like their ICH wedge rockers don't expect them to last long at roller cam spring pressures either. 
Ron

INDY uses their own rocker arms...    I've had three come apart on me on a customer's Hemi...     Granted they sent replacements but I didn't trust those either.

[Daytona Guy]

Got my HEMI badging done – in place of "MOD MAN"..

[Mytur Binsdirti]

Looks good, should be a lot of fun!   

[Ghoste]

Does it ever look good!

[firefighter3931]

Looks great ! 

Got a dyno sheet and build specs ? 

This one would be nice to have for the Proven Combo's Forum 



Ron

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Yummy!! 

[JB400]

Looks good   Wish I had one.  Maybe someday

[skip68]

 

[lasvegas69charg]

that is a huge a$$ motor. 

[Wicked72]

Better be some vids my friend!!! or ill steal your car and makem myself!!!!! 

[Daytona Guy]

Looks great !  

Got a dyno sheet and build specs ?  

This one would be nice to have for the Proven Combo's Forum  



Ron

Thanks for the comps...

Specs are

4200 rpm trq 738 Hp 590 -  
5700 rpm trq 657 Hp 713 -

I'm choking it down to most likely 665 HP - because I'm running a more stock look - with exhaust manifolds into 3" exhaust with straight through mufflers. It will be loud.

We will have to see how it runs. My combo is "unliked" by some, so drivability is very important to me - and being really loud I will report later.

I have more room down the side of my motor than my 440 gives me.

Dane

[Daytona Guy]

Got a question: What is the ignition wire that my MSD box will need to tap into - I'm assuming it is one of the coil ones ?





Dane

[skip68]

Mine was from the ballast resistor.   I bypassed the ballast resistor as it's no longer needed.   

[firefighter3931]

Looks great !  

Got a dyno sheet and build specs ?  

This one would be nice to have for the Proven Combo's Forum  



Ron

Thanks for the comps...

Specs are

4200 rpm trq 738 Hp 590 -  
5700 rpm trq 657 Hp 713 -

I'm choking it down to most likely 665 HP - because I'm running a more stock look - with exhaust manifolds into 3" exhaust with straight through mufflers. It will be loud.

We will have to see how it runs. My combo is "unliked" by some, so drivability is very important to me - and being really loud I will report later.

I have more room down the side of my motor than my 440 gives me.

Dane

Nice ; power comes in early so you don't need to buzz it hard at all. Very similar to my 572 wedge in terms of the peak power and the rpm's they come in at. 

Got a question: What is the ignition wire that my MSD box will need to tap into - I'm assuming it is one of the coil ones ?





Dane

The MSD box uses battery power on the heavy red & heavy black wires. The small red wire is a trigger and it needs power in both the start and run positions of the ignition circuit. You can simply tie the brown and blue wires coming from the firewall together and connect that to the small red trigger wire. 

The trigger wire just tells the box to power up while you are starting and afterwards, running the engine. The Ballist resistor is no longer required and can be deleted from the ignition wiring. 


Ron


Ps. If you're looking for a set of kick-ass Hemi ignition wires lemme know.   

[Daytona Guy]

What is your cam duration? I wanted a very streetable cam - they put in a Comp .235/.249  .557/.526 My guess is this is at .50 but the paperwork for not say. Installed at 106 (not sure what this means), I have seen 110, 1209,108 and so forth. What does 106 mean?   Compression Ratio is 10.76...will this be hard to drive with 93 oc?

Dane

[firefighter3931]

What is your cam duration? I wanted a very streetable cam - they put in a Comp .235/.249  .557/.526 My guess is this is at .50 but the paperwork for not say. Installed at 106 (not sure what this means), I have seen 110, 1209,108 and so forth. What does 106 mean?   Compression Ratio is 10.76...will this be hard to drive with 93 oc?

Dane

Dane, the cam in mine is a custom grind, solid roller with 266/272* @.050 duration and the valve lift is .660 on a 110*LSA installed on a 106* intake centerline. The 106* installed position means that the cam is degreed in with 4* of advance. My static compression ratio is also 10.7:1 and it runs fine on pump gas....but it does have a lot more duration than yours. 

I'm assuming that the 235/249 numbers on yours refer to the duration@.050 valve lift because those numbers are too small to be "advertised numbers" based on the displacement of your engine. The .557/.526 numbers are your gross valve lift. Installed @ 106 refers to the installed intake centerline position of your cam. Missing is the LSA or "lobe seperation angle" and that would be good information to know. 

See if you can get a Cam Card from the builder 


Ron

[Daytona Guy]

What is your cam duration? I wanted a very streetable cam - they put in a Comp .235/.249  .557/.526 My guess is this is at .50 but the paperwork for not say. Installed at 106 (not sure what this means), I have seen 110, 1209,108 and so forth. What does 106 mean?   Compression Ratio is 10.76...will this be hard to drive with 93 oc?

Dane

Dane, the cam in mine is a custom grind, solid roller with 266/272* @.050 duration and the valve lift is .660 on a 110*LSA installed on a 106* intake centerline. The 106* installed position means that the cam is degreed in with 4* of advance. My static compression ratio is also 10.7:1 and it runs fine on pump gas....but it does have a lot more duration than yours. 

I'm assuming that the 235/249 numbers on yours refer to the duration@.050 valve lift because those numbers are too small to be "advertised numbers" based on the displacement of your engine. The .557/.526 numbers are your gross valve lift. Installed @ 106 refers to the installed intake centerline position of your cam. Missing is the LSA or "lobe seperation angle" and that would be good information to know. 

See if you can get a Cam Card from the builder 


Ron

Ron, you have been a big help.

[Daytona Guy]

Need some help...

OK got my tranny, rear end and exhaust installed - I have to get the parts for the tranny linage. I'm not going with a console, because I have had one in every Daytona I have owned. I'm getting tired of them. I loved the one of the Chargers I had that had a buddy seat. This allows my hottie wife to sit next to me.

The problem is, I am missing everything from the column arm to the tranny shifter, and cannot even remember what the z-bar and other parts look like and where they go. Need some help with pics - and if anyone has the parts or where to find them...

WIth a column shift - I'm not even sure that the torgue shaft will even fit with the exhaut. I know they made HEMI B-body column shift cars...is the torque shaft and shifting linkage the same as 440's column shifter?

Thanks.