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kick down linkages

Started by B5charger, September 19, 2012, 07:06:50 PM

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B5charger

I just swapped my 2Bbl on a 318 with an Edelbrock performer intake and Eddy 600cfm carb.  Everything is great until I get to the kickdown linkage.  I've read here that I will need a 4Bbl linkage to make it right.  Right now I just have a nut and small bolt in the slotted rod to push back when the throttle is pressed.  I guess my question is.. do I have to find a linkage from a 4Bbl and 904 tranny (which is what I have) or will one from a 727 fit?  Or, is there anything else I can do to make it right?

cdr

CUT & WELD,----------------------DO NOT DRIVE IT WITHOUT THE LINKAGE HOOKED UP!!! IT WILL TOAST YOU TRANS :Twocents:
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

B5charger

what needs to be cut and welded?  Any pics?

Cooter

Quote from: B5charger on September 19, 2012, 07:35:53 PM
what needs to be cut and welded?  Any pics?

Most times the rod with the adjuster on it has to be cut and a piece of rod welded in to lengthen it on 4BBL apps. You might even get the 2BBL unit to work somewhat, but I think you will need to weld in a section. IIRC, section welded in is only around 1" long or so.

CDR is correct. Do not drive with linkage mis-adjusted. Line pressure will be too low. Correct adjustment will be when you have someone FLOOR the carb and hold it to the floor, the kickdown rod cannot go back anyfurther. You cannot push on the adjuster. (SLider looking piece). Make sure you have a light return spring hooked to the rod to help keep it pulled foward. With that "Nut" in the adjuster you have now, the kickdown rod cannot come all the way back up and will possibly cause delayed shifts when engine/trans is cold.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

B5charger

So when adjusting it, have the throttle floored, and have the slotted rod (with adjuster on it) adjusted so that the back of it is touching the kickdow rod?  And the return spring keeps both the slotted rod and the kickdown rod traveling together?

cdr

hold carb wide open,then adjust the trans rod so that it is all the way back but still letting the carb go all the way open,if the rod is to long it will shift late,& it wont get full throttle,if its to short it will shift to soon & be a mushy shift
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

Cooter

Pic Borrowed from RECHARGD....

" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

John_Kunkel


Before you worry about the rod, you will need the correct Mopar throttle lever extension for that Edelbrock carb; their part number is 1481. They also have extenders for threaded rods, th enumbers are 8003 or 8004 depending on the thread size.

The common adjustment advice to have the trans lever full back at WOT will usually result in late part throttle upshifts, adjust the linkage so the lever is full forward at idle and the rear of the slot is pulled up against the throttle stud.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

B5charger

Thanks for your help walking me through this and dumbing it down.  I'm obviously not experienced in this stuff.  I do have the throttle adapter part#1481 so I did something right.  Now with this help I know what I need to do to set it up right.  Only thing I need is a return spring.  Who sells them?  They're not easy to find. Thanks again. :cheers:

Cooter

Try your local auto parts tore, as I've seen various Springs in a "Set" they sell. Kinda like Carb/Clutch return/Springs all in one package. All different springs.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

John_Kunkel


A&M has the correct springs.

http://amhightechauto.com/
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.