News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Drum/Manual Brake Check-List:

Started by Captain D, August 02, 2012, 10:33:29 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Captain D

Hi all,

We'll be running drum/drum manual brakes all round' the car at this time (front disc conversion is on the horizon, but may be a few years off unfortunately), and I just wanted to double-check that this is all that is needed for this task:

1.) Master Cylinder - First, I read somewhere on here that only the center bolt M/C is correct for this form of assembly, but recently, learned that either the center bolt or swivel pin style will work just the same. With that being said if this is correct, I'm thinking about going with either of the two:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Fenco-Reman-Master-Cylinder-Brake-System/1969-Dodge-Charger/_/N-iqxotZ8kn47?itemIdentifier=227009_56045_0_

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Fenco-New-Master-Cylinder-Brake-System/1969-Dodge-Charger/_/N-iqxotZ8kn47?itemIdentifier=49301_0_0_

2.) The manual push rod from a non-power brake "B" body car,
3.) The non-power plate that goes between the master cylinder and the firewall,
4.) Single vacuum line from the intake to the vacuum cylinder for the headlight assembly,
5.) And, my proportioning valve 'should' still be okay, its an adjustable valve.

My car was originally a power brake car, so if there is anything else that you can think of that I may be in need of, just let me know and again - I appreciate your time and any guidance.
All the best,
Aaron


A383Wing

either master cylinder will work, the top one will hold more fluid

yer check list seems right, but you will need to remove your "Z" linkage under the dash and just use the non-power brake pushrod....this way yer pedal will be up where it's supposed to be for a non-power brake car

Bryan

Captain D

Thanks Bryan for the reply,

I have the Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, so I'm searching now for the part number/rear intake vacuum hole size so that I can get the correct cap and single line for the vacuum canister.

As for the proportioning valve - I apologize, I didn't indicate clearly which form of valve that I have. The one that I do have installed right now is the style as pictured below in the ebay link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Disc-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-/150870638031?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2320973dcf&vxp=mtr

When I purchased the valve, the shop indicated that even though I do not have front discs - only drums all round' - that it should work just as good. While I'm changing all of this, do you feel that this info is correct about the valve or would you recommend another proportioning valve altogether for all drum/manual brakes?

Thank you again and I apologize for the confusion - I suppose I'm still learning a lot of this stuff as we go along,  ;)
Aaron

b5blue

  Do a search of "power to manual conversion", I have a topic with pics of everything.  :2thumbs: Ether master will work and if it's a drum car the valve is no issue just leave the old one in place.  :2thumbs:
  There is a small boot holder and boot that go on the back of the master you don't have, you'll see it in my topic.
 

Captain D

Thanks b5blue for the link - great info!  :cheers:

I'm just about to head out to work this evening and just did a quick search on the boot at AutoZone, but I'm unsure if this is the correct piece below. If its not, I can do a quick search online when I get back home later this evening to zero in on the correct piece,

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Brakeware-Master-Cylinder-Kit-Brake/1969-Dodge-Charger/_/N-iqxotZ8knp5?itemIdentifier=709212_0_0_5662

Thanks again for the reply messages gents,
Aaron


b5blue

  Mancini Racing has just the boot, the "holder bracket" I got off ebay.  Call 817-429-0105, he can get you what you need and may just trade for your old booster parts. Tell him Neal in Florida told you about him.  :2thumbs:
  Don't worry your drum brakes will work just fine. Disk only comes into play at higher speed and repeated hard driving situations.

Captain D

b5blue - Thanks for the phone number man, I'll give them a call for sure!  :2thumbs:

A friend of mine noted that he may have some of these goodies, but they're out of a 68' Charger (I have a 69' base Charger) - I realize that a lot of the 68-70' Chargers have some inter-changeable components, but just for the sake of double-checking - are the drum/manual brakes all the same based on what we're talking about in this thread?

Also, as a side note, I think that I will probably end up going with the master cylinder in the link below:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Fenco-Reman-Master-Cylinder-Brake-System/1969-Dodge-Charger/_/N-iqxotZ8kn47?itemIdentifier=227009_56045_0_

I was curious to ask about a chrome master cylinder cover, but in the link above it doesn't say what size the cover is. In the link below, I found this one that looks identical to the gold one as pictured in the link above from Auto-Zone - but I'd just like to be sure - what do you think?:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_master-cylinder-cover-2-3-8-x-5-gm-single-bail-spectre_22905546-p?searchTerm=master+cylinder+cover

Thank you again for any replies and for allowing me to double-check these two areas,
All the best,
Aaron


A383Wing

careful with the chrome covers....if it's cheap off-shore chrome, brake fluid will eat it up fast

Bryan

b5blue

  Aaron wait and talk to Wayne first. All he does is Mopar brakes, he may have everything like the master, boot and boot bracket, reinforcing plate, pushrod and so on. Get everything working correctly first, how are the lines, hoses, springs, clips and do-dads that make up the whole system including the emergency brake cables and foot lever?
  The brakes are the single MOST important system on the whole car, get and keep it 100%! I can tell you new springs and perfectly working adjusters along with all the hardware is very critical for good functioning, clean the backing plates and check the pads where the shoes rub. They get ridges worn into them, they need to be pretty flat or the shoes shift in and out so they may need to be smoothed out. The pads get lubed so the shoes move in and out without catching or wearing into the backing plate.   
  If you get all this 100% you'll have no troubles and very long service life. If you do not have a Factory Service Manual, get one!  :2thumbs:

Captain D

b5blue - Thanks again for the reply,

You're absolutely right on the brakes being the most important system - no question about that  :2thumbs:. All of the hardware on the brake system overall is new, so I'm good to go in that department. As for this manual brake conversion assembly, I actually have the non-power plate that goes between the master cylinder and the firewall - its still attached to the old booster, which is cool because I can save some $$ from having to buy a new one. BTW, that is a great thread that you created, well done!

So, I'm still in need of:

- The manual push rod from a non-power brake "B" body car,
- Boot, if in really good shape,
- And, the small silver boot-holder that goes on the back of the master cylinder.

I'm heading out to work now, but will call Mancini Racing tomorrow before I go back in. Just out of curiosity, how much do you think that these 3 items will run ball-park (the rod, boot, and small silver boot holder) just so that I can compare with original pieces and prices? Since brakes are the most crucial part, I'm leaning towards new parts altogether rather than original but I'm sure original should be just as good - but still, can't be too careful,  ;).

Thank you again for any and replies and I'll call Mancini tomorrow to get some info as well,
All the best,
Aaron



b5blue

 :scratchchin: A manual backing plate will not attach to a booster I think.....better check your plate, is the hole in it round? The hardest part for me to find was the boot holder, ebay 15.00. Plate 35.00 and boot 13.95 shipped. The correct knurled bolts with nuts another 17.00. (Not really needed.)

Captain D

Hi there b5blue -

Thank you for the price-range so that I can have a ball-park idea what these items run new.

As for this manual backing plate, I've been looking at pics of them, both on your previous thread, as well as ebay, etc., and mine looks identical as far as I can tell. However, since it is still attached to the booster in the car, its difficult to see exactly how it is attached/installed to the plate. But, Looking at the plate that is in my car and the ones I've been checking out in various pics, I can't tell a difference. I'm assuming that, perhaps, mine can been modified to fit it in the car with the booster or there are two plates available - one for manual and one for power brakes that just happen to look similar...?

Perhaps I should purchase one to have on hand just in case rather to get ready to undertake this and not have it available,
Thanks again for the info!
Aaron

A383Wing

the difference in the plates is where the hole for the master cylinder and the booster mounts.

Bryan

Captain D

I had called Mancini and noted that I have a 69' Charger with drums all round' the car and looking to simply go manual. Unfortunately, he only had an 'adjustable plate' when it came to the mounting of the master to the firewall and the boot, as b5blue has previously stated. He said that they just don't have anything else with this particular set-up. That's okay, a member on here is able to find most of what I am in need of here, but the small silver boot-holder may be a challenge. I'll certainly keep looking on ebay of course, but if anyone happens to have an extra just in case he is unable to come across one, please let me know and I appreciate any leads,  :2thumbs:.

Thank you again for all of the info in this thread,
Aaron


b5blue


Captain D

b5blue - I attempted to contact Wayne at the number: 817-429-0105, with no luck. I tried twice, but do you know if he is out of town by chance?

Thanks again,
Aaron

b5blue

He could be on the road, keep trying.  :scratchchin: (It's a one man show like Tom at R/T Specialty)

Captain D

Thanks b5blue  :2thumbs: We just got off the phone - real nice guy. He's going to call back again tomorrow to check out all that he has after he returns home from an event this past weekend. Thank you for helping me get in touch with this seller (and for everyone else who responded to help me out in this thread) and at this point, I should be good to go!  :cheers:

High regards,
Aaron

b5blue

Very good, he should be able to get you squared away!  :2thumbs:

tan top

Quote from: Captain D on August 02, 2012, 10:33:29 PM
Hi all,

We'll be running drum/drum manual brakes all round' the car at this time (front disc conversion is on the horizon, but may be a few years off unfortunately), and I just wanted to double-check that this is all that is needed for this task:

1.) Master Cylinder - First, I read somewhere on here that only the center bolt M/C is correct for this form of assembly, but recently, learned that either the center bolt or swivel pin style will work just the same. With that being said if this is correct, I'm thinking about going with either of the two:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Fenco-Reman-Master-Cylinder-Brake-System/1969-Dodge-Charger/_/N-iqxotZ8kn47?itemIdentifier=227009_56045_0_

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Fenco-New-Master-Cylinder-Brake-System/1969-Dodge-Charger/_/N-iqxotZ8kn47?itemIdentifier=49301_0_0_

2.) The manual push rod from a non-power brake "B" body car,
3.) The non-power plate that goes between the master cylinder and the firewall,
4.) Single vacuum line from the intake to the vacuum cylinder for the headlight assembly,
5.) And, my proportioning valve 'should' still be okay, its an adjustable valve.

My car was originally a power brake car, so if there is anything else that you can think of that I may be in need of, just let me know and again - I appreciate your time and any guidance.
All the best,
Aaron



i put the  master cylinder  in the first link on mine after the resto  ,   cause  my original was done for past rebuilding , well needing sleeving at least ,

but never liked the look  , so replaced it with the one in the second link  , made by dorman , got it from summit  ,



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DHB-M71258


good thing about that one is  you  can use your original  lid & gasket clamp etcetc
 :yesnod:


they list another  ,  

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAZ-10-1323

 lookes same type as original  in picture  , but  had two crap new  A1 cardon master cylinders , would never  buy another  :Twocents:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Captain D

Just wanted to post an update,  ;),

We finally got to install the 69' Charger manual brake kit from Wayne ('The Ram Man.com') and I just wanted to say that everything fits absolutely fantastic and the overall brake system on this car is perfect! I was surprised just how well the drum/drum manual brakes actually work - I was expecting the pedal to have been harder. Everything on our brake system is brand new and the car, finally, is comfortable both driving and stopping  :icon_smile_cool:. I also learned one other thing too - I'll never buy a Cardone A-1 booster again nor refer anyone to buy one, lol, it was causing all of the problems and was faulty from day #1.  :brickwall:

Many thanks to you guys for the postings/guidance, and for b5blue for putting me in touch with Wayne, you guys rock!
All the best,
Aaron

b5blue