Run on HeavyFuel (Resto)

[HeavyFuel]

Thanks.

Obviously, the headliner went in before the front and rear glass.  Not too proud about how it turned out.......learned a few things, being it was my first one.  Hopefully it'll straighten out a little bit next summer when the car sits in the sun.

My dog liked the old roof insulation....

[Dino]

Thanks.

Obviously, the headliner is in as well.  Not too proud about how that turned out.......learned a few things, being it was my first one.  Hopefully it'll straighten out a little bit next summer when the car sits in the sun.

My dog liked the old roof insulation....

I guess so 

Grab yourself a hair dryer and slowly heat up the entire headliner.  It'll get the creases out much quicker.  Steam works as well but for the life of me I don't understand people who use a fan year round to keep their car dry but then use steam inside the car itself.   

Did you have issues with it at the c-pillar?  If so, carpet tape is your friend.   

[HeavyFuel]

I didn't have any major issues with any one thing.....the end result just isn't that good.

Here are a few pics. Headliner rod (bow) color and order.

Headliner bow clips.

[HeavyFuel]

Headliner bar.

[Silver R/T]

Did you lay it out in the sun so it would warm up and get all the wrinkles out? That's what they recommend when installing this type of headliner.

[HeavyFuel]

Did you lay it out in the sun so it would warm up and get all the wrinkles out? That's what they recommend when installing this type of headliner.

Yeah...I warmed it up.....and took a hair-dryer after a couple areas after it was up.  Didn't effect it much.

A couple things to take into consideration.  (a) the headliners from the factory weren't all that great either, and (b) the flash on the camera makes every single little ripple in the fabric stand out.....it doesn't look quite this bad in person.

[HeavyFuel]

A few things I learned from the headliner install:

1.  The foil-back insulation provides a "starry night" effect when light reflects off the foil back through the fabric holes.    Not.

2.  Make sure to attach this silver bracket (circle below) before you put the fabric up.   The rest of the stuff that mount to the roof through the fabric is easy enough to locate, but this bastard has to go on first.    

3.  Use the glue sparingly, I don't think it plays a overly big role.  And brush it on if you can, there is more control over where it goes.  And only put it where it's supposed to go (arrows below), or run the risk of having your fabric stuck to parts of the roof that it shouldn't be.  

4. Paint the pillars and above the door the color of your fabric, or run the risk of seeing the body color through the holes in the fabric.

I knew about these things and forgot/neglected to do them......make a checklist.

[HeavyFuel]

Put the windshield in a couple weeks ago.  I followed pretty much the same procedures that are discussed elsewhere on the site.
I have a couple things to add.

1)  This is the caulking that was in the original gasket groove that slips over the pinchweld.  My glass was original, so this stuff might have been factory......but it looks alot like the white caulking that was used in a couple other areas of the car.   I thought liquid butyl was used here.  I used the 3M Bedding and Glazing on the top and both sides of the gasket groove.

2)  The gasket does not have a groove for a pinchweld on the bottom, along the cowl, because there is no pinchweld there.  Sealant needs to be applied to the cowl channel where the gasket will lay. The original gasket had a gap in the application of the butyl near the corner on each side.  Weird.  

3)  I of course put down a continuous bead of sealant along a cowl and a little bit up the sides (shown in green).

4) Hopefully there will be no leaking in the corners.

[HeavyFuel]

After  the gasket was in place, I slid the top of the glass in first and then the sides and worked the bottom edge last.  That is how the service manual says to do it and it worked out OK.

Before zipping the gasket, I laid a small bead of 3M Glazing under the lip, all the way around.  Earlier, I had tested the adhesion of urethane on the rubber, and it didn't stick.

1) A thing to watch during a vinyl  install.......check how all your trim fits.  I thought I did, and I lucked out in this area as it's not too noticeable.  The vinyl is borderline too short and doesn't quite go under the trim.  Oops.

2)  Awesome name for shocks......or anything, for that matter.

3) About ready to go on the engine install.  I might put the wiring harness on it first...it's under the hood right now.

4) Look at the ridiculously shiny brake calipers.  I saved a couple hundred $ by going with reman'ed ones instead of sending in my originals for re-sleaving.   These look like crap, and I should've just spent the $$.  They completely ruin the original look I'm after..... 

[Bob T]

Sterling efforts Dude, keep it up 
The colour of the calipers dont stand out too much I reckon, they will be getting road grime on em too 

[Charger-Bodie]

Looks great!

I would be in a panic if I were there though. Cant stand it when there are tools and other things sitting on cars.

[cdr]

you are doing an awesome job &  the screws that hold the dash on top of mine were black not silver i dont know if they should be black or silver? please dont take this post as a put down,i know you want your car as correct as possible from the things you have posted  ----your thread is helping me alot thank you
charlie

[bill440rt]

Fan-tastic!! 
Doing a stellar job, there. 

FWIW, the bolts on top of my dash were clear cad (silver) as well.

[bull]

Excellent work. It all looks too familiar. I also get the "starry night" effect with that silver insulation but the headliner sure as heck is not coming back down to fix it. Were I to do it over again I probably would have figured out a way to black it out. I saw where someone on the site did that but of course I saw it after my headliner was in. My healiner is wrinkled too but it sat folded up for at least 10 years in a box. The previous owner bought it and stored it before I even saw the car for the first time. I'm not going to worry about it. I figure it'll work itself out eventually.

I wish I would have done the subrame connectors but that was another thing I thought of too late. Oh well. There's probably not enough room here for me to list all the things I'd do differently.

[HeavyFuel]

Looks great!

I would be in a panic if I were there though. Cant stand it when there are tools and other things sitting on cars.

You must be talking about one of the rear glass install pics.

That was one of the rare times foreign objects found there way on the car....so far.  Hey....I used a towel!

[66FBCharger]

Nice job!
Thanks for the thread.

[HeavyFuel]

Thought I'd list a few of the little things I learned on this site and applied to my build.

[bull]

What do you think of that air cleaner and where'd you get it? Been thinking about getting one myself.

[JB400]

Mopar Performance has them.  I'm surprised there's no pie plate on there.  Yet

[bill440rt]

Mancini Racing also sells their version, it's a little cheaper than the MP piece.

[RIDGERACER383]

Amazing work and I love all the detailed pics.I saw a video on YouTube where a guy did a headliner on a charger and showed the whole thing.At the end of the process he used a heat gun to take the wrinkles out.heres the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJU6m1ZkwQg

[bull]

Mancini Racing also sells their version, it's a little cheaper than the MP piece.

That's the one I've been eyeballing. I've heard some things about the stud being too long and the wrong wingnut, etc. Not sure if Mancini has the same issue...

[HeavyFuel]

What do you think of that air cleaner and where'd you get it? Been thinking about getting one myself.

It's the original piece...soda blasted and then I repainted it with VHT wrinkle paint.  It turned out pretty good, althought the wrinkle is a little rougher than factory.  The 20 min. in our kitchen oven (wife was shopping) while the paint was curing helped tighten up the wrinkles.  I'm not confident the filter sticker is going to stick for long.

I'm not sure what I think about it..    .....I've never thought about getting anything else!  

[HeavyFuel]

The engine is in!  And not the  way it came out (pic 1).
The whole process went really well...which surprised me, since almost everything else so far was been a struggle.   I did it by myself, in about 3.5 hours last Wednesday evening before going to a B-day party....not bad.

(2)  Here is the hoist set up.  I know...it looks kinda sketchy, but it was structurally sound.  The small chain loop at the ceiling goes through the drywall and around a roof truss lower member.

(3)  I used 2 x 8's attached to the bumper mount points on the frame.  The plates re-enforced the lumber at the attachment locations, and the wood is resting against the UCA bump stop mount.

(4)  The rig worked great, up went the body, and under went the motor.

[HeavyFuel]

Lowering the body was exciting and nerve wracking.  I didn't remember it being that tight, but of course I took it out through the top.  The added length of chain gained by using a chain hoist instead of a cherry picker made it very easy to guide the body back and forth a tiny bit each way as the body lowered.

(2) Fore and aft position of the engine can be determined by lining up the tranny support with it's mounting location on the body.

(3) The height of the K-frame was approx  10" from the floor when on the dolly.  That worked out really nice, because the body lowered level to the K-frame and trans support, and I was able to bolt things right up.  This pic shows the  body on stands and the lumber gone.  At this time I attached the bumper supports that normally live where I used the lumber, and used a floor jack to lower the body the last few inches.