What have you done with your Charger lately?

[M5Ivan]

Replaced my shift lens as it was cracked and replaced the light under it with an LED light.
Removed my 3 speed wiper motor and found out it's a '72 A body 3 speed variable. It worked intermittently and never parked so know I know why. Planning to replace it with a restored correct motor even though the car will never see rain as long as I own it 

Do you have a console shifter? On my car the voltage is too low to power the LED. Another board member has a similar issue. Could you tell me what part number that LED is?

I was able to get the LED light to work in the shifter lens. I just needed to reverse the polarity and it now works!!

[Dino]

Replaced my shift lens as it was cracked and replaced the light under it with an LED light.
Removed my 3 speed wiper motor and found out it's a '72 A body 3 speed variable. It worked intermittently and never parked so know I know why. Planning to replace it with a restored correct motor even though the car will never see rain as long as I own it 

Do you have a console shifter? On my car the voltage is too low to power the LED. Another board member has a similar issue. Could you tell me what part number that LED is?

I was able to get the LED light to work in the shifter lens. I just needed to reverse the polarity and it now works!!

Great! I never thought of doing that. It's been a while and I don't recall what type of socket it is, you can't just flip the bulb correct? You have to flip the wires?

[M5Ivan]

Yes, you need to flip the wires in the harness that the socket connects to. Easy!

[Dino]

Yes, you need to flip the wires in the harness that the socket connects to. Easy!

That's excellent! It's the only incandescent bulb left in the interior. Do you happen to recall what LED you used? I'm out and will have to order one.

[M5Ivan]

It's the same bulb used for the left hand side of the instrument panel.

[Dino]

I remember those. Thanks bud!

[M5Ivan]

Changed out the shift lens light for an LED.

[keith88]

Replaced the 360 i just put in with another be cause of issues with better and newer one. Also had a vintage air cleaner decal made to go on my air cleaner I'm using.

[XH29N0G]

  looks good

[TPR]

Changed out the shift lens light for an LED.

That's on my to do list.
Looks good.
TPR

[twenty mike mike]

I drove it at night for the first time since the wiring was replaced stem to stern with M&H harnesses, including a new headlight switch and a new dimmer switch.

Within a couple of minutes, the headlights started shutting off and turning back on, but they took longer to recover each time. Good thing the sidewalks in my neighborhood had already been rolled up.

This was never a problem with the original harness, even though the connector to the headlights that is near the battery was so corroded, it looked like a copper smelter. The headlight switch was probably from a Coronet, since it had no provision for the vacuum lines. Sometimes irony is so ironic.

Swapped the Coronet switch back in and did a static test for 10 minutes with the battery on charge...no problems. Now to do a dynamic test, but not tonight, with all the Irish drunks on the roads. 

[JR]

^You should really do the headlight relay upgrade.

It will stop your new headlight switch from overheating and shutting off,  and make your lights brighter.

There is a useful thread on here explaining how its done,

[twenty mike mike]

Yeah, I planned to do that when I upgraded my headlights. The headlight switch should not overheat with sealed beam headlights on low fer Pete's sake, particularly with all new wiring. Another example of lousy repops.

[JR]

Well it is 13 volts going from the battery, through the bulkhead connector, into the headlight switch, back out the bulkhead, etc...

It's a lot to ask for from a switch. I had two original switches both start to overheat and flicker like that.

Do the relay upgrade, and get the aftermarket bulb housings that hold H4 bulbs, the difference is amazing. You can buy the headlight kit on eBay for around 40-50 bucks that come with bulbs and the housing.

I highly recommend it!

[cdr]

Yeah, I planned to do that when I upgraded my headlights. The headlight switch should not overheat with sealed beam headlights on low fer Pete's sake, particularly with all new wiring. Another example of lousy repops.

my new switch did the same thing, I took the guts out of the old one & put it all in the new switch housing.

[alfaitalia]

Well it is 13 volts going from the battery, through the bulkhead connector, into the headlight switch, back out the bulkhead, etc...

It's a lot to ask for from a switch. I had two original switches both start to overheat and flicker like that.

Do the relay upgrade, and get the aftermarket bulb housings that hold H4 bulbs, the difference is amazing. You can buy the headlight kit on eBay for around 40-50 bucks that come with bulbs and the housing.

I highly recommend it!

It will still be 13 plus volts (should be nearer 14 if your alternator is working ok) going through the switch...but it will be a lot less amps and it's the amps that melt and blow stuff not volts. When you take static causing clothing off and you hear that crackle...that's about 10,000 volts....but it won't hurt you as there is next to no amps.

[JR]

^ it occured to me an hour after I made that post that I should have said 20-30 amps instead of 13 volts.

[ACUDANUT]

Well it is 13 volts going from the battery, through the bulkhead connector, into the headlight switch, back out the bulkhead, etc...

It's a lot to ask for from a switch. I had two original switches both start to overheat and flicker like that.

Do the relay upgrade, and get the aftermarket bulb housings that hold H4 bulbs, the difference is amazing. You can buy the headlight kit on eBay for around 40-50 bucks that come with bulbs and the housing.

I highly recommend it!

It will still be 13 plus volts (should be nearer 14 if your alternator is working ok) going through the switch...but it will be a lot less amps and it's the amps that melt and blow stuff not volts. When you take static causing clothing off and you hear that crackle...that's about 10,000 volts....but it won't hurt you as there is next to no amps.

Just like a Police Tazer (50,000) volts.  Hurts like hell, but won't kill you.

[alfaitalia]

Well it is 13 volts going from the battery, through the bulkhead connector, into the headlight switch, back out the bulkhead, etc...

It's a lot to ask for from a switch. I had two original switches both start to overheat and flicker like that.

Do the relay upgrade, and get the aftermarket bulb housings that hold H4 bulbs, the difference is amazing. You can buy the headlight kit on eBay for around 40-50 bucks that come with bulbs and the housing.

I highly recommend it!

It will still be 13 plus volts (should be nearer 14 if your alternator is working ok) going through the switch...but it will be a lot less amps and it's the amps that melt and blow stuff not volts. When you take static causing clothing off and you hear that crackle...that's about 10,000 volts....but it won't hurt you as there is next to no amps.

Just like a Police Tazer (50,000) volts.  Hurts like hell, but won't usually kill you.

Fixed that for you. There have been a couple of deaths through tazer  shock in the UK and doubtless the USA too.  Our cops are not allowed real guns over here (long may it continue) so they get a bit over zealous the the Tazers!

[ACUDANUT]

 Very small percentage, but true.

[sanders7981]

Started installing a CVF Performance serpentine pulley and bracket upgrade kit on my 383.  Just need to get the alternator pulley pressed on to complete the install.

[M5Ivan]

Installed my rebuilt power brake booster and 3 speed wiper motor.

[will]

Dropped the car off at the body shop. Kissed the chimney with the right rear quarter

[Dino]

Dropped the car off at the body shop. Kissed the chimney with the right rear quarter

Ouch. How bad is it?

[ODZKing]

Self inflicted are the worst. Done that a couple times myself.