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383 cam shaft???

Started by DadsCharger00, August 15, 2012, 09:32:41 PM

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DadsCharger00

So as you all know I just recently bought a 68 with a 383 in it. Looking for a different CAM for it. Want that good lope. What's your opinions? Thanks!!!

Ghoste

There are a lot of good cam ideas in the proven engine and performance sections but what are your goals for it?  Do you just want a tougher sound and a little more kick or do you want to break the bead on the tires each time you hit the throttle?

XH29N0G

I get the sense that the knowledge here on cams and matching it to what you want is a excellent. 

I was recently advised to go with a Lunati 60302 and am very happy with it for my needs (70 383, manual), but have not had experience with other combinations.  The engine really woke up.

I saw your other posts and your car is very nice.  Mine is an F8 (green) with a restoration in progress.  I am hoping it looks that good.

James
 
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

DadsCharger00

Quote from: Ghoste on August 16, 2012, 02:01:16 AM
There are a lot of good cam ideas in the proven engine and performance sections but what are your goals for it?  Do you just want a tougher sound and a little more kick or do you want to break the bead on the tires each time you hit the throttle?

I think what we're going for ghoste is the tougher sound and the kick. I don't think I need to be busting beads on tires lol....I'm already broke enough!  :lol:

firefighter3931

Cam selection based on "sound" is allways a sure way to end up disappointed.  :P

So many things come into play when selecting the right cam profile for the combination ; stuff like, static compression ratio/exhaust system/intake system & carb/rear axle ratio/stall speed/tire diameter etc....



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

DadsCharger00

Quote from: firefighter3931 on August 20, 2012, 02:07:21 PM
Cam selection based on "sound" is allways a sure way to end up disappointed.  :P

So many things come into play when selecting the right cam profile for the combination ; stuff like, static compression ratio/exhaust system/intake system & carb/rear axle ratio/stall speed/tire diameter etc....



Ron

Now in my defense....I was simply replying to the post ahead of mine with the sound comment! My mom just remembers the lope my dads old charger had. I'm also not gonna lie and say I'm a gear head and know what I'm talking about. Lol. I'm medical not mechanical! But I'm willing to learn. So teach me old wise ones! Even if ya have a book or manual for me to read I'd pick it up! Always interested in learning!

c00nhunterjoe

Basic info: the bigger the cam, the more it "lopes". The more it lopes equates to the higher the powerband starts. Behind a 383 this means less low end grunt. If you have 3.23 gears and a stock torque converter it will be very sluggish taking off. If you put too big a cam behind a stock converter the car will "push" you while trying to sit still in gear.

If your car is bone stock and all you are worried about is a little "thump" to your idle the get an "rv" cam or one step above that. Typicly something in the .480 lift 270-280 max duration advertised. Anymore then that on a stock car will not run as well, it will sound cool, but be all bark, no bite.

Chryco Psycho

Lunatis Voodoo cams work great , need a lot more info to help you pick one though , 4 spd or auto , converter stall , gear ratio , intended use .......

DadsCharger00

Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on August 20, 2012, 07:28:46 PM
Basic info: the bigger the cam, the more it "lopes". The more it lopes equates to the higher the powerband starts. Behind a 383 this means less low end grunt. If you have 3.23 gears and a stock torque converter it will be very sluggish taking off. If you put too big a cam behind a stock converter the car will "push" you while trying to sit still in gear.

If your car is bone stock and all you are worried about is a little "thump" to your idle the get an "rv" cam or one step above that. Typicly something in the .480 lift 270-280 max duration advertised. Anymore then that on a stock car will not run as well, it will sound cool, but be all bark, no bite.
OK. So I understood....parts of that. Lol. I think I need to study!

XH29N0G

My guess is that if you provide additional information about the engine (carburation, exhaust, etc...), gears, wheels, and transmission type (manual/automatic/stall) that you will get a suggestion that will be well suited for your car.  I apologize if I missed it in this or other posts.

My understanding (and it has only recently been acquired) is that the 383 is a very nice engine for these cars, but that how you set it up (gears, cam, etc...) can make a big difference in how it performs.  I think what the previous post was getting at is that one of the keys with accelleration with this engine is the shape of the torque curve and the choice of cam can have a significant impact on this. 

I don't look for sound, but can tell you that the sound of the one I am now using is different, but not by alot, from the original magnum cam that was in my 383.  I like that sound, but if you want something different it will give you a reference to work from.
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....