News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Brake checklist. How does it look?

Started by Dino, August 13, 2012, 01:54:29 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Dino

The next job is a somewhat bigger one.  Not that changing a header seal was such a walk in the park but what is with these cars?  Before you say installing a new turn signal switch, I'll let you know how that one goes.   :icon_smile_big:

So I have the Wilwood front disc kit, the GM style combo prop valve/metering valve and whatever valve.  I have a 10lbs residual pressure relief valve as well.  Rear brakes will be rebuilt with new brake shoes and either new pump seals or the entire pump, haven't checked cost and availability so don't know yet.  I also have a Raybestos master cylinder for disc/drum applications and will be using the original drum booster.

So how does this sound?

Remove old mc cover and drain the brake fluid as best as possible.  Unbolt brake lines from mc, remove old mc and install new bench bled mc.

Remove front brake system and install disc kit.  Remove old distribution block and install combo valve.

Here's where I get a bit stuck.  What tools do I need to alter the brake lines to hook up to the new combo valve?  Do I need a flaring tool or something and something to bend the lines?  What's the best location for the residual pressure valve?  Any insight would be appreciated.  I would love to do this with the least amount of surprises.  I'll have enough 'fun' bleeding the brakes...

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Chryco Psycho

I would do the Master cylinder last so the fluid doesn't drain out of the master while doing the rest of brake swap.
if you use the correct master designed for front disc rear drum it will have the residual pressure valve built in & a larger capacity reservoir for the disc , rear line goes to front brakes , front line goes to rear brakes as well .
Drum brake Pump seals ??? I assume you mean new rear wheel cylinders approx $12 each ?
if you use the larger diameter truck cylinders the system will balance very well without a proportioning valve .
Often you can carefully bend the lines to connect them but you will still probably need a flare tool as the fitting sizes may be different , this is one of those tools unlike a hammer where you need to spend some $$ & buy a good quality tool to get high quality flares , you Must double flare any brake line , buy some extra tube & practice a few times to get a prperly double flared centered end .

Dino

Aww shucks so I bought the pressure valve for nothing...oh well, less line cutting to do I suppose.

Yes sorry I mean wheel cylinders, not pumps.  $12 each?  I'll have a dozen!   :icon_smile_big:

I have a flare tool somwhere and never used it, if it's crap I'll go out and buy another, I'm not taking chances with brakes.

Good thinking of doing the mc last, I'll do that.

Thanks Chryco
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Chryco Psycho