BC/CC is on!!

[69 OUR/TEA]

Sanders,first,if you are going to be redoing the job(flo-coating the clear),from what I see in the pic,the mist coat you did wrecked it,or because of your environment you sprayed in with very little air movement also took part in the final outcome of the finish,it looks dead/dry.I know you guys doing this on your own,whether its trying to save money or accomplish it yourself,all don't have access to a spray booth,so there are some steps you can do to help out the lack of air movement.
One,don't be wetting the floor down with water creating lots of humidity in there,the ISO's in the urethane paints pull moisture in and affect it,but most part is applying the next coat/coats without it being ready is the big killer.And by this,I mean you should be able to lightly run your finger over a part to check for how dry it is before you go on to the next coat,if not you are trapping more solvent in there and that is a number one killer of paint jobs,ending result ,AKA die-back followed by solvent pop.
In your case by what I see,not 1,200-1,500 grit but rather like 800 to knock down the peel and give a good mechanical scratch for new clear to adhere to.
What I suggest and recommend in your environment,lack of air movement,is get 2 different reducers,maybe a medium and a slow,medium for the first coat,1/2 and 1/2 for the second,and then the slow for the last.So it will dry  from the bottom up,not skin over on the top.BE CAREFULL with the inexperience you have with this,DO NOT SPRAY IT HOW YOU WANT IT TO LOOK,it WILL be all over the floor!!!!Let the reducers do their jobs and flow out the clear for you.
And proper gun pressure and distance is crucial,6-8" off panel,nice and square to the panel,and more pressure will lay out the clear better than less.The Sata 3000 Digital I have is around 26-29psi @ gun,where others,my Devilbiss GTI likes 40-50 psi.Smaller tip also to atomize the clear,1.3 is best,1.5's up,to big,and will get lumpy orange peel .
I can talk all day on these processes,just try your best,and hope anything I said adds some light to the job.
There are many bodymen here on the site,its safe to say we all probably all do things different but hope some of them can agree to some of the tips I gave you.

[Silver R/T]

I would've recommended 800 grit but I kind of doubt there is enough clear on there to go with 800. Would hate to see OP sand through clear in spots.
In any case, it does need to be wetsanded and reshot. Make sure you give it enough time to flash between coats and extend flash time between each coat.

[sanders7981]

69 OUR/TA Thanks for the info.  I really rely on all of you that have the experience.    I am going to skip the flow coat stage... After reading a bit on SPI Universal Clears, I followed the directions they put out in regard to wetsanding and buffing.  I should be good to go. 

I spent all day Sunday wetsanding, knocked down the runs with 600/800, then hit it with 1000, 1500.  Should I go up to 2000?  It is smooth as can be, but I have a 3000 grit sanding sponge/cloth-like thing made by 3M, it says it's to be used prior to polishing.  I am pretty sure that there is enough on there to polish it out and be ok.  I could reshoot it, but I have already torn down the paintbooth and I think would on be in the same boat as before.  I think I will polish it once I have time and money to do so.  

Anybody got a Dewalt polisher I can borrow ?    

[bill440rt]

If you feel you have enough material, hit it with 2000 then 3000 if you can.
You'll spend much less time with the buffer. If there's enough material on it you'll also lessen the chance of burn through as you'll be spending less time with the buffer trying to remove coarser sanding grit scratches.

[Patronus]

Definetly use the 3000. I just bought the new Dewalt, love it!