Is it possible to prime an oil pump without removing it? Follow-up questions

[bull]

Just wondering if you can somehow fill one with white grease from the filter base tube?

[resq302]

I seem to remember priming mine by a special tool that I attached to my drill and priming the oil pump with the distributor out of the engine.

[firefighter3931]

Curtis,

It's easy to prime the oiling system using the MP priming rod. The distributor gear needs to be removed and the priming rod is inserted into the oil pump. The rod is turned counter clockwise with a drill until prime is achieved. 


Ron

[bull]

I mean the oil pump itself. I've got the hexagon MP oil priming tool (P4286800) but doesn't the pump need to be packed with white grease before I start turning it? Or can I just start turning it without doing that?

[c00nhunterjoe]

No grease needed. Just attach a drill to the rod. It will prime quite quickly

[moparguy01]

remember to have someone rotate the crankshaft while priming so you get oil to both banks!

[matrout76]

if the oil pump was installed "dry', it might be worth removing the oil filter and try to put some oil into the discharge side of the pump to lube it before trying to prime.

the threaded part of the oil filter housing is where the clean oil enters the block, so you'll have to try to squirt oil into the passage that is between where the filter gasket seals and the threaded part. while doing so, i would turn the pump backwards slowly 1 revolution at a time just to get oil in it.  after you think there is oil in the pump, fill the filter up with as much oil as you can, thread it quickly trying to keep the oil in the filter, and then prime the pump with a drill or whatever. 

the filter should have an anti-drainback valve that will keep the oil from flowing backwards from the filter to the pump, but having oil in there will help reduce the time it takes to fill the system.

i hope this answers your questions.
Matt

[bull]

Yup. Thanks guys.

[AKcharger]

I used the priming tool like fire fighter said and removed the rear oil pressure gauge (BB) when I had oil shoot out there I knew it was primed!

[Nacho-RT74]

I mean the oil pump itself. I've got the hexagon MP oil priming tool (P4286800) but doesn't the pump need to be packed with white grease before I start turning it? Or can I just start turning it without doing that?

I got some oil inside the pump just to not rotate it dry. I don't think is a bad idea.

The first time I made my engine filled it with white grease though, but basically because I didn't have the hex rod to prime it, so cranking was to take more time to get oil everywhere

[bull]

I used the priming tool like fire fighter said and removed the rear oil pressure gauge (BB) when I had oil shoot out there I knew it was primed!

So you removed the plug and let it squirt out? I wonder if a manual gauge would register pressure there, instead of having to wipe up the oil. I need to get a gauge anyway for initial startup.

[firefighter3931]

I wonder if a manual gauge would register pressure there

Yes, a mechanical guage will register oil pressure once the pump primes. With my HD hammer drill i've seen 50 psi. You'll know when it primes because the drill will bog down. 


Ron

[crankypat]

   depending on how long motor sat or rebuild you should turn over very slowly to lube both sides of head andupper oil gallerys.

[mauve66]

and if you have the valve covers off and don't see oil coming out then turn the crank to uncover the hole and oil SHOOTS across the room............... don't ask how i know this.............

[crankypat]

 

[bull]

and if you have the valve covers off and don't see oil coming out then turn the crank to uncover the hole and oil SHOOTS across the room............... don't ask how i know this.............

Aren't you supposed to block it with your face?

[bull]

I started on this today but I have some follow-up questions.

1. Do you have to take the valve covers off to see if you're getting oil to the rockers or is there another way to tell?
2. Does your helper continuously run the pump as you turn the engine over or is it a stop and go procedure?
3. If stop and go, how far should I turn the crank each time?
4. Should I expect my oil filter to be filled now after turning the pump for a couple of minutes? (I ask because I'm wanting to mark my dipstick).
5. What size is that friggin' crank bolt supposed to be? 1 1/4" is too big, 1 3/16" is too small. I used 1 1/4" to turn the engine over so I guess that will work.
6. When I'm finished priming do I put the damper at TDC to reinstall my premarked pump rod and dist.?
 
Just FYI, a mechanical pressure gauge is hooked up at the back of the block and it went up to 25 psi each time the drill bogged down. I need to get a deep socket from work before trying this again tomorrow.

[mauve66]

and if you have the valve covers off and don't see oil coming out then turn the crank to uncover the hole and oil SHOOTS across the room............... don't ask how i know this.............

i said valve covers but as i remember it now i think i actually meant the valley pan (valve covers may have been off also but i don't remember) i think i left the valley pan off cause it was the first time i had done this and wanted to make sure the oil was actually moving down there around the lifters

i've always wanted to do one of those see-through model engines the had in the 80-90's so i could better understand all the secret inner workings

[bull]

The thing is you're supposed to oil prime before you do the initial startup so I can't see taking the intake and valley pan off prior to doing this.

[b5blue]

Remove plugs, install mechanical oil pressure gauge and crank over till 15lbs reading. Done. (Page 204 B/RB Mopar engines book.)
  Left and right bank rocker shafts are fed through #4 camshaft bearing so if you run the priming shaft and just rotate the crank manually or by bumping the starter for a few rotations you'll fill the system quickly @ 50lbs. pressure.   

[justcruisin]

1: You have to take the rocker covers off to see if the heads are oiling. Oil will spurt out everywhere, you may want to sit the covers back on to stop it going all over the place.

2:continually run the pump. Once you have a prime you should be able to maintain 60-70 psi on the gauge by turning quite slowly. I find a hand crank works great.

3:I think one head oils when number 6 is on tdc after compression and the other when 8 is at tdc after compression but regardless if that is correct or not 720 degrees rotation of the crank will show oil at both banks.

4: Yep, if you have achieved a prime and all OK then the filter should be full after that amount of time.

5: As far as I know its' 1 1/8". But you clearly have a larger nut.

6: I would set your damper at 14 degrees BTDC  or whatever your static timing is and set your distributor to fire at that point.

[mauve66]

The thing is you're supposed to oil prime before you do the initial startup so I can't see taking the intake and valley pan off prior to doing this.

i was still putting it together on an engine stand (everything but intake/carbs/accessorys and wanted to see how it worked on the inside, i still re-primed it after it was in the car and ready to go