repair or replace?????

[Highbanked Hauler]

 Since there are new replacement gauges now where there never used to be is it better to replace or have them repaired ?

[A383Wing]

new replacement gauges are probably better.....

the bi-metal strip inside the old gauge that has been sent out for repair may not be as accurate once it has been heated up & down over the years of use

Bryan  (my opinion)

[Dino]

I love the look of the originals and would never want to replace them with anything else, but yes you will give up accuracy for that. 

You can always install a mechanical oil and temp gauge under the dash or something as so many here do and have the best of both worlds.

If you don't care about originality then replace all the gauges with autometers or something else with a good rep.  With some minor mods you can fit new gauges in the original cluster.

[A383Wing]

I thought he was referring to the replacements as looking like the originals?

Bryan (or did I read it wrong....again)

[Dino]

I thought he was referring to the replacements as looking like the originals?

Bryan (or did I read it wrong....again)

Nope you read it right, I read it wrong.  My bad.

The repro gauges are pricey so I just repair and calibrate the old and put performance car graphics decals on them.  I don't think the repro gauges will read any more correct than the old but I have been known to be wrong...from time to time...

[Highbanked Hauler]

I thought he was referring to the replacements as looking like the originals?

Bryan (or did I read it wrong....again)

   Yep thats what I was getting at. I have seen new original gauges for $79. and haven't got a price on having them redone. The gas gauge has always read 3/4 when it is full but it is accurate on the low end. When it is on the empty line there is about a gallon left. Temperature and oil I think are about right. the amp meter doesn't work which brings me to the original question,repair it or replace it ??.   I am thinking replace it.

[A383Wing]

I say replace with new...but that's just me

Bryan (I love to spend other peoples money)

[Dino]

I thought he was referring to the replacements as looking like the originals?

Bryan (or did I read it wrong....again)

   Yep thats what I was getting at. I have seen new original gauges for $79. and haven't got a price on having them redone. The gas gauge has always read 3/4 when it is full but it is accurate on the low end. When it is on the empty line there is about a gallon left. Temperature and oil I think are about right. the amp meter doesn't work which brings me to the original question,repair it or replace it ??.   I am thinking replace it.

$79 for a new gauge?  Can't beat that so go for it.

I had the same issue with the fuel gauge.  It is more likely the float or sending unit then it is the gauge itself.  You can try to put 5 volts on the  gauge and see if it goes up all the way, they can be tweaked from the back quite easily.  I did it with mine and it worked great, went all the way up to full with first fill up.  Unfortunately something else broke before it reached half a tank and now the fuel gauge is not giving me any reading so I couldn't tell you how accurate it would be on the low end. 

Do you know why the ammeter is inop?  Did you have a short you know off?  Before anything else I would pull the cluster and see what's going on back there.  If there is a sign of fire in the gauge you should first find the cause before putting in new gauges.

[myk]

the amp meter doesn't work which brings me to the original question,repair it or replace it ??.   I am thinking replace it.

It's probably/hopefully bypassed.  I'm sure you already know the factory configuration for the ammeter is a fire hazard.  Put in a volts gauge instead, IMO...

[Highbanked Hauler]

the amp meter doesn't work which brings me to the original question,repair it or replace it ??.   I am thinking replace it.

It's probably/hopefully bypassed.  I'm sure you already know the factory configuration for the ammeter is a fire hazard.  Put in a volts gauge instead, IMO...

  I was having voltage problems (many) so I bolted the wires together that go to the gauge  and bypassed  it. Can anything be done to eliminate the  two main wires that go to the gauge completely ??  I failed wiring 101

[A383Wing]

yea..you can trace those two wires that come through the bulkhead connector and connect the 2 out there under the hood. You will not have an ammeter gauge if you do this. So you gotta put a voltmeter in car somewhere to tell you if car is charging or not

Bryan

[myk]

  I was having voltage problems (many) so I bolted the wires together that go to the gauge  and bypassed  it. Can anything be done to eliminate the  two main wires that go to the gauge completely ??  I failed wiring 101

You failed the class, but they wouldn't even let me into the building, lol.  No that's a suitable band-aid for now.  'A383 has the right idea: finding those two wires in the engine compartment bulkhead and feeding them into themselves...

[b5blue]

The new "OEM" brand gauges are exact reproductions EXCEPT the AMP gauge. It is rated at a full 60 amp capacity as opposed to 40 amp (and age degraded) for the factory one. That alone is worth at the very least replacing the AMP gauge.  I will point out all of the other OEM gauges (FUEL-OIL- TEMP) require a solid state voltage limiter per their spec.    (I passed electrical 101-02,03 and 04 in the USAF with flying colors.  )

[Ghoste]

Which brings up a good point.  It isn't so much that an ammeter is a fire hazard, it's our having them loosely connected with old wiring and then pushing them with greater draw and bigger alternators than the engineers ever spec'd them out for that is much of the problem.

[b5blue]

Very correct! Add resistance from even slightly loose or corroded connections from the headlights to the taillights and everything in between, missing or not so good grounds and there ya go!    I'm on my cars wiring like a bum on a boloney sandwich! 

[Dino]

Very correct! Add resistance from even slightly loose or corroded connections from the headlights to the taillights and everything in between, missing or not so good grounds and there ya go!    I'm on my cars wiring like a bum on a boloney sandwich! 

Can I borrow you for a while?  Although functional, some of the wiring looks pretty chaotic, especially that aftermarket radio install...that I did myself...

[b5blue]

Only if you finish all this darn bodywork I'm doing! 

[myk]

My scheduled re-wiring won't come fast enough...

[Highbanked Hauler]

yea..you can trace those two wires that come through the bulkhead connector and connect the 2 out there under the hood. You will not have an ammeter gauge if you do this. So you gotta put a voltmeter in car somewhere to tell you if car is charging or not

Bryan

Where is the best place to tap in for a volt meter ? I was thinking the starter relay ?  Didn't someone  do a factory looking volt meter ?

[A383Wing]

you can tap in for the volt meter at the ignition switch. Just find the one terminal that has power in "run" position

this way you don't have to worry about going through the firewall to connect the "+" wire

There ain't no "key on" power at the relay anyway

Bryan

[Highbanked Hauler]

     The 2 wires that run to the amp meter,do they power anything else ?   If not they can be disconnected at the fire wall ??

[A383Wing]

not sure on a second Gen car....if you do disconnect them at the firewall...they need to be connected together on the engine side to complete the circuit....otherwise, nothing will work

Bryan

[b5blue]

Do a search here, someone is making a voltmeter out of amp gauges..... I saw a post recently.
If you put the 2 wires to the amp gauge together you'll still charge your battery.

[Highbanked Hauler]

Do a search here, someone is making a voltmeter out of amp gauges..... I saw a post recently.
If you put the 2 wires to the amp gauge together you'll still charge your battery.

  I used a small bolt to put them together and securely taped them up..

[A383Wing]

Do a search here, someone is making a voltmeter out of amp gauges..... I saw a post recently.
If you put the 2 wires to the amp gauge together you'll still charge your battery.

  I used a small bolt to put them together and securely taped them up..

that works as well....but I would not make that a permanent repair...but I'm sure you already know that

Bryan